club.liberty.asn.au

Posted: **Wed Mar 28, 2012 8:34 am**

i have a spare one there im going to try fix too, its totally dead

Posted: **Sat Apr 14, 2012 1:13 am**

markbyers1978 wrote:
MrPotatoHead wrote:you have to desolder the LCD screen and lift it up, but I didn't really feel like desoldering and looking at mine after clarence fixed it, so I'm not sure exactly which resistor was the culprit!

I posted in NASIOC (Usa site) Jan 2010 as below:

Hi All,
I am from Sydney Australia.
We badge the "Legacy" as a "Liberty" here.
Same trouble with clock on my 04-3.0RB - a gentle tap used to get it to work but eventually died.

Solder R4 which is under the vaccuum fluorescent tube.
I desoldered one side of the tube & bent it up gently to gain access, reworked solder joint on both pads of the "R4" resistor (component is marked "511").
One pad was really bad - resistor fell off when I heated only one pad (the other end). Hard with a large tip soldering iron & small surface mount components - got there after a few mintes. Soldered tube back in & tested before reassembling.

Works well now...thanks to this thread which gave me the idea.

Little bit fiddly but cheaper than replacement cost.
Dealer quoted $600AU fitted replacement of whole clock module...
What the $%#@ ?

Looks like the Japanese Rhythm Clock Co. clocks have this issue about 5 years of age...

Hopefully this helps someone.

No pics - as it is all back in place now.
May get some if I ever do this for a friend...?

Mark

Hence R4 is the answer - in my case....there may be other faults, I do not claim to be all knowing nor expert in this matter....
My tone if not clear is one of helpfulness not arrogance or condescension.

Thanks Mark :clapping:

I had the clock out again - took some pics to help other people...

Here is the display raised:

And here is my dodgey soldering of R4 :lol:

:

Just a note - very tricky trying to get the legs back in the board

- my writeup on my 'home forum' is here... http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.ph ... t&p=531104

Working 5 days now and another guy on uklegacy forum got his clock working with this R4 resoldering, so thanks again - I feel we've got somewhere this time :mrgreen:

Posted: **Tue May 22, 2012 12:02 am**

Still going strong 6 weeks now

Posted: **Tue May 22, 2012 8:07 am**

sounds good, i must get a soldering iron and try this out on the spare one i have

Posted: **Thu Jul 12, 2012 9:54 pm**

Had about 5 or 6 PMs from various places of people telling me that this method worked for them...

Posted: **Sat Dec 15, 2012 12:26 am**

Clock still working fine - a few more people have found it has worked for them too... :mrgreen:

Posted: **Mon May 06, 2013 3:35 am**

Still going fine - another thanks for a successful solution by PM :mrgreen:

Posted: **Fri Jun 21, 2013 8:15 pm**

Hello All - I'm new to this forum, but not new to the annoying electrical problems that seem to be inherent in some models. I have since 2005 been specialising in Saab Display Repairs and this has been very successful. I have recently realised that certain Subaru models suffer a similar problem with the clock/ mpg display.
Having repaired quite a few I the UK, I am trying to establish if this is a service that some (Not so technical) people would be interested in using? I am currently in the middle of creating a website, but the cost to repair a clock would be £40 plus £10 return shipping (Approx $67 Plus $16 return shipping).
If this is something that maybe of interest, please either contact via this forum or search Saab Display Repairs.

Many thanks & best regards,

Simon De-Gare Pitt

Posted: **Fri Apr 03, 2015 2:01 pm**

Just wanted to say thank you for the info in this post. I've had my 04 GT for a couple of weeks now and it was annoying me that the clock display was dead. Followed the info here and even with my crap soldering skills I got it going again.

Posted: **Sun Apr 12, 2015 9:16 am**

ZeroAlpha wrote:Just wanted to say thank you for the info in this post. I've had my 04 GT for a couple of weeks now and it was annoying me that the clock display was dead. Followed the info here and even with my crap soldering skills I got it going again.

Glad you got it sorted, and thanks for posting

Mine is still going strong too :mrgreen:

Posted: **Thu Apr 06, 2017 7:33 pm**

Another victim of the dodgy solder here. The only thing I noted that a lot of places forgot, is that the older foam dash material tends to crumble a little when removing the unit. Happy as with the fix and having a working clock mostly.

Posted: **Fri May 18, 2018 1:14 am**

Graphite wrote:
markbyers1978 wrote:
MrPotatoHead wrote:you have to desolder the LCD screen and lift it up, but I didn't really feel like desoldering and looking at mine after clarence fixed it, so I'm not sure exactly which resistor was the culprit!

I posted in NASIOC (Usa site) Jan 2010 as below:

Hi All,
I am from Sydney Australia.
We badge the "Legacy" as a "Liberty" here.
Same trouble with clock on my 04-3.0RB - a gentle tap used to get it to work but eventually died.

Solder R4 which is under the vaccuum fluorescent tube.
I desoldered one side of the tube & bent it up gently to gain access, reworked solder joint on both pads of the "R4" resistor (component is marked "511").
One pad was really bad - resistor fell off when I heated only one pad (the other end). Hard with a large tip soldering iron & small surface mount components - got there after a few mintes. Soldered tube back in & tested before reassembling.

Works well now...thanks to this thread which gave me the idea.

Little bit fiddly but cheaper than replacement cost.
Dealer quoted $600AU fitted replacement of whole clock module...
What the $%#@ ?

Looks like the Japanese Rhythm Clock Co. clocks have this issue about 5 years of age...

Hopefully this helps someone.

No pics - as it is all back in place now.
May get some if I ever do this for a friend...?

Mark

Hence R4 is the answer - in my case....there may be other faults, I do not claim to be all knowing nor expert in this matter....
My tone if not clear is one of helpfulness not arrogance or condescension.

Thanks Mark

I had the clock out again - took some pics to help other people...

Here is the display raised:

And here is my dodgey soldering of R4 :

Just a note - very tricky trying to get the legs back in the board - my writeup on my 'home forum' is here... http://www.uklegacy.com/forums/index.ph ... t&p=531104

Working 5 days now and another guy on uklegacy forum got his clock working with this R4 resoldering, so thanks again - I feel we've got somewhere this time

Hey Graphite,

I am having the same issue atm and your photos are deleted. Would you be able to repost them please.

Thanks,

Posted: **Fri May 18, 2018 11:15 pm**

Hi just thought I would comment on this post as I have had mine apart and fixed several bad connections that I spotted. I would recommend to anyone who wants to try fix it themselves not to add more solder but just add plenty of flux and get the Connections hot... if you YouTube cold solder joint you will see some videos on what to look for on the board

Posted: **Sun May 20, 2018 9:49 am**

Ours displays “ACC” for 5-10 minutes after startup, then works...

Is it the same fix as described above?

Posted: **Mon May 21, 2018 12:46 pm**

if the accessory power circuit is open it displays “Acc”

club.liberty.asn.au

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Re: [split] Repairing Info display for 2004 Liberty

Re: [split] Repairing Info display for 2004 Liberty

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Re: [split] Repairing Info display for 2004 Liberty

Re: [split] Repairing Info display for 2004 Liberty