Proposed install Liberty GT 2004

[catbert6]

Howdy - the McIntosh head unit has started skipping, I would like Sat Nav and a reversing camera, quite keen on iPhone integration and (add extra excuses here...), so I am looking to completely change up the audio system in my 2004 Liberty GT.

My current thinking is:

Head Unit: Pioneer AVIC-F960DAB http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/archive/AVIC-F960DAB/page.html
with Pioneer ND-BC6 Universal Rear View Camera http://www.pioneer.com.au/au/products/25/38/301/ND-BC6/page.html
Amp: Alpine PDX-V9 http://www.alpine.com.au/showItem.php?item_id=273
Front Splits: Morel Virtus 603 6-1/2" http://www.morelhifi.com/product/virtus-2-way-3-way/
Rear Speakers: undecided
Sub: Morel Primo 804 8" http://www.morelhifi.com/product/primo-subwoofer/

and of course the Japanparts AV PANEL SET https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/14777

I am hoping to use stock locations. Any issues / views from readers who have had experience with these items? The sub is mentioned in another thread as a viable alternative, so I assume depth is not a problem (although a spaced will likely be required). Mounting depth on the splits is under 2.5 inches, which I think is OK.

With the AV Panel Set, do I need a replacement hazard switch? I recall reading some discussion of this but am unable to locate the thread. Also, any suggestions on a competent speaker for the rear doors?

[SegR]

Hey Bob.

Can't comment on the sub but make sure it clears the boot springs/tension bars.
Fascia will be fine and you reuse the existing hazard switch. Just make sure you get the right fascia for your model.
I never bothered with upgrading the rears and I don't regret it. I have my fronts and sub running off a mosconi amp and the rears running from the hu. The driver only needs the fronts. Screw the passengers
If my rears were failing I'd upgrade them to midrange coaxials.
Sound deadening all doors and the rear shelf will help with road noise affecting sound quality.
See my profile thread for what I did.

[catbert6]

Thanks SegR - I have ordered the fascia and am continuing to refine the concept. Looking at Alpine HU (with Carplay), Alpine amp under the seat, Alpine reversing camera, Hertz 3 ways at the front. I am talking with a local supplier who is (I think) offering some good advice. Pretty much in line with your comments - focus on the fronts, decent amp, apply the dynamat liberally.

My main area of ongoing concern is the sub replacement. I like the look of your install but would still rather do a parcel shelf install if I could get a reasonable outcome. My local shop recommends a Rockford Fosgate Punch 8 inch if I am going to insist on a parcel shelf install (which would need a three cm spaced at least) but would prefer I went with an enclosure. I am looking for tight, crisp base, rather then volume, but I don't want parcel shelf rattle (which even the McIntosh 8 inch provides).

Did you experiment with a parcel shelf install before going for an enclosure, or just go straight for the enclosure?

[SegR]

I went straight for the enclosure. Others here can comment on how they have gone with a shelf sub upgrade. You'll need a model specifically designed to operate in free air configuration.

[TwistdInfinity]

I have some Boston SL60 splits in stock location of MY07 wagon. Zero rear speaker. 2 10's in boot.

I competed in a few SQ comps, but only did average. I found I kept getting a weird phasing issue in the mid-bass area. When applying Time Alignment to the 6.5's and tweeters I would end up with zero mid-bass in the drivers seat but heaps in the passenger seat. Even Marty at FHRX couldn't work it out when I popped in there once to visit his stuore (great bloke that, offering to tune my system for free when I didn't even get my stuff there!). Figured it was just an unlucky distance thing with the mid-bass freq's cancelling out at that distance after TA to get the imaging right. I did have a custom tweeter mount in the stock location to angle the tweeters up to try and raise the stage a bit.

I have just bought some Hertz Mille MLK 3-ways and I'll be building custom door pods to try and angle the mids up a bit to hope the mid-bass cancellation isn't as bad. Will also build A-Pillar pods for the 3" and 1" to bring the stage up and further forward for better imaging.

I agree with above comment, don't spend money on rear speakers, passengers don't count!

Dan.

[SegR]

Twistd, do you find you get enough thump out of the subs? My 12" seems to get drowned out by road noise unless the song is bass-heavy or I have the volume cranked which makes the fronts overbearing and the passenger intolerable. Perfectly balanced when stationary though.

[TwistdInfinity]

SegR,

Mine are in a wagon so I don't have to contend with the rear firewall/parcel shelf, but considering they are 750w rms each, and I put about 1000w rms into each fine, I have plenty of thump!

I can definitely have some problems with getting the integration with the front's though. As you said, sometimes when the volume is low the subs get drowned out if they are put down to a level to match the front's, and if I go turning up the volume too much they can become too loud (if I am after SQ not thump thump brrrrrr thump thump). It's a difficult balancing act that I'm pretty sick off, so I'll be looking to upgrade to some better SQ subs that are a bit lower powered with better dynamics.