Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby nytrojen » Tue Jul 29, 2014 1:29 pm

I definitely need to dynamat the parcel shelf and doors. Rattles and buzzes are driving me up the wall. Plus I think the gutter trim may be buzzing too. Didn't have THAT in the Gen 4
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby Out6ack » Tue Jul 29, 2014 7:37 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Agreed, my Mac got really good when I Resomatted the door inner and outers, and I have some left over for inside the stock sub box.

I may do the inner rear quarter panels, under rear seat and boot floor as well.



I just ordered 60sq today to do exactly those areas Benny.
Ended up going with the Car Builders brand. Aussie company down your way somewhere.
Might throw a bit in the tailgate too. I guess you could say I'm getting my car lowered..
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby bigBADbenny » Tue Jul 29, 2014 9:29 pm

Go 25% coverage in the tailgate or less or it will be too heavy for the struts :)
Clarke C channel foam bits to insulate the wiring ftw :)
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby Out6ack » Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:13 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Go 25% coverage in the tailgate or less or it will be too heavy for the struts :)
Clarke C channel foam bits to insulate the wiring ftw :)


Yeah, the extra weight on the struts did cross my mind. Tbh, the extra weight on the whole car concerns me!
That C channel (or similar) might be good for the front door locking rods too eh?
Anyways, getting a bit off topic..

Your Sub box looks awesome Tom. Too much moolah for me to chime in on a group buy unfortunately, but damn, it would be my pick if I could - and that HD750 is gonna kick ..HARD!
Some very nice components you've pieced together there mate.. 8)
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Tue Jul 29, 2014 11:52 pm

Thanks Jay :) , will be a nice setup.
And I actually did the C section foam when Ben suggested it originally (I did a reverse cam instal). But I thought I wouldn't ever want to do the resomat, so I left it. Now I'm going back to do it, since I changed my mind lol.
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby Out6ack » Wed Jul 30, 2014 12:50 am

Do you find you use the R cam much Tom? I mean, our wags are pretty good vision wise.
Still, I'm thinking of getting one myself because, well, it's a gadget, but they want a fair bit of coin for the decent ones ...As usual. Did you install it near the #plate or up above the glass?
I actually rely heavily on one all day every day operating dozers. I like to know exactly what model commodore it is that I'm reversing over.. :twisted:
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby bigBADbenny » Wed Jul 30, 2014 9:57 am

I think the big box of Resomat was 10Kg.

Theres 2 approaches to application:
25% coverage just to kill resonance and or cover holes (eg door inners)
100% coverage or close enough: going nuts basically (eg door skins)

Some panels, eg door skins, boot floor, spare wheel well, under seat, firewall, cabin floor, roof etc. already have a smattering of factory sound deadener so YMMV.

Meaning you could get away with using a small box for the whole car with 25% or less application just to kill resonance whilst saving weight.

This special pricing is still on offer: Group Buy: Resomat acoustic dampener
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Wed Jul 30, 2014 10:16 am

Hi Jay, it's handy to have, but not strictly necessary. You're right, visibility is pretty good in the Liberty, and they're not actually such big cars. I used to drive a Falcon Wagon for work, and they are LONG vehicles. And together with the fact that it was full of boxes for work (up to the roof sometimes), I've reversed into a few things in the past. Mainly in tight shopping centre carparks. Oh, and the rock beside my driveway :? . But when you go to 6-8 busy shopping centres a day for work, it's obviously a much higher risk than what I do in my personal vehicle. That was before I got the Lib, but I was still keen to have the cam for that reason.

The main 2 things I find useful are judging Distance, and Night Parking. Trying to judge if you're 1m away from the car behind, or 30cm is hard without a camera (or parking sensors). Especially if the other car has a towbar or bullbar. It's just nice to see the Green/Yellow/Red lines on the screen, so I know I'm safe to reverse for another little bit.
And with my super-bright LED reverse-lights (thanks to Leo on this forum), rversing at night is great. The camera had good night vision - probably because my reverse lights light up the area behind my car, even in total darkness if there are no stree-lights etc.

Unlike you, I had never used a reverse cam before. The downside is definitely forcing myself not to only look at the screen. A few times I've been focusing on the screen and almost take my side mirror out against a pole.
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Wed Jul 30, 2014 10:24 am

I paid $45 for mine incl postage. And that's from a store in Aus, and a model with a Sony CCD image processing chip. So that's pretty much the most expensive one of this type. Cheaper ebay ones should work (as long as they're NTSC, not PAL), but image quality is lower. Just remember they pretty much all look the same from the outside. It's the type that replaces one of the numberplate lights, so that's where it sits. It has a light built in, so you don't actually loose a numberplate light. Took me a while to understand that at first :lol: . Nicely hidden and doesn't usually get dust or dirt on it.

It's just the time it takes to install. It took me 2 days to do it, together with the other mods I did while I had the Factory Nav and trim out (Handbrake lockout, C section foam etc). But I'm super meticulous, so most people take half the time lol. Depends on each person's skill I guess. Radio out, Nav out, lots of trim off - both exterior and interior, putting pins into connectors, splicing and soldering (or crimping), cables hidden and cable-tied under trim.....
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby Out6ack » Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:31 pm

Cool. Thats good info Tom. I've found that even with mega bright reverse leds i still have trouble reversing at night using my mirrors with windows up because the tint% on my front windows may or may not be stricly legal. 8) I'll probably grab one for that reason + all the other points you mentioned. So any ntsc should be ok with any HU eh? Its looking like I'll be installing a Kenwood 2din.

BBB:
Yeah, I'd read about the 25% theory and it seems logical to me too. I'll probably just play it by ear and go around the car tapping panels and adding more if need be. Areas like the interior side of the doors i will fully cover for SQ. I intentionally bought heaps so I can do as much as suits me. There's always someone wanting to buy a few spare sheets of dynamat! Nice timing on the group buy btw!! :(
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Wed Jul 30, 2014 3:52 pm

Hehe, cool. If you have a stock Nav screen, it needs a NTSC cam. But sounds like you're planning to use an aftermarket screen. So that'll depend on what that standard that Unit is compatible with.

EDIT: Oh and make sure the HU has a Reverse Cam input (with Auto detect). Because you want the picture to appear as soon as you put it in reverse. You don't want to have to go into a menu, select the source input (eg DVD or Aux In) and then see the reverse cam picture.
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Thu Jul 31, 2014 9:47 am

Cables ordered from http://www.darvex.com :) .

Only problem I saw was that the grommet in the picture I found on the forum is nothing like my car (even has the break fluid reservoirs and master cylinder on the other side). So we'll have to see how to get into the cabin from the engine bay. The picture I had is little use to me.

EDIT: Didn't find another picture, but people seem to pierce the large funnel-looking grommet. I'd rather use a vacant one, but if that's the only option....
Last edited by tom_kauf on Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:50 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby mihai » Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:14 am

Thats because the image above is a LHD.

The grommet you want to go through is in the top right of this photo with a blue dot on it.

Image

Just be careful when piercing a hole in it as the main loom from the ECU goes through here.

Very easy to access both from the engine bay and inside the cabin. And since you're using 4ga cabling, it shouldn't be hard at all. I got 0 gauge through there and it was a pain in the ass!
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Thu Jul 31, 2014 10:54 am

Awesome, thanks Michael. That's the one I thought they described, but I hadn't seen a picture.
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Re: Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

Postby tom_kauf » Sun Aug 03, 2014 2:12 pm

.
Test fitment time!! :D

This will be the last bit I'll be able to do in a while, but I was too excited and had to see it in place.

I only loosened the side trim (didn't fully remove it), enough to get to the screws for the metal panel with the round subwoofer cut-out. With that removed, the WickedCAS Sub fits really well 8) .

BUT NOTE: The styrofoam at the bottom sticks up a bit above the level of the cut-out, so that needs to be trimmed. Otherwise the sub leans forward like the picture below. This enclosure did not come with instructions, but the JL Stealthbox Instructions are based on there being a cubby-hole here (which wouldn't have the styrofoam). I could've ripped it out, but I thought it'll help with sound deadening - so I just trimmed it.

And because the back of the sub is white, you can see it a tiny bit when looking in between the trim. So I'll give it a quick spray of black paint.

Oh and I had already done some sound deadening in there months ago (the only spot where I'll do full-cover).

And while I was working on the car, I quickly installed a OEM Subaru 12V outlet in the boot (like Outbacks have).

McIntosh Subwoofer Metal panel still in place:
Image

McIntosh Subwoofer Metal panel removed (just a few screws to undo around the outside):
Image

Trim back on for a test-fit:
Image

*This is the styrofoam that needs to be trimmed. Just use eg. a stanley knife and slice along the top of the plastic trim. The styrofoam sticks about 1cm above that.*
Image

Otherwise this is what the fitment looks like (styrofoam pushes the bottom of the sub up at the back, tilting it forward like this). It does NOT look like this after the styrofoam is trimmed. Fitment is then good.
Image

Side view after styrofoam is trimmed (the picture makes it look like there's a gap on the bottom-left, but that's mainly a shadow):
Image

Rear view after styrofoam is trimmed (the colour difference isn't obvious, that's just the flash and camera distorting colours):
Image

12V outlet on LH side of boot - a quick 10min job. Just because I was already working on the car :P :
Image
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