club.liberty.asn.au

Hey Guys,

Although I'm really happy with the overall quality of the McIntosh sound system in the Gen V (a big improvement from the Gen IV imo) - I still think its lacking in bass and have been considering replacing the subwoofer with an all-in-one sub/amp combo.

I'm hoping that it would be possible to add a portable all-in-one combo that could be easily reverted to the old sub if needed, and vice versa.

Wondering if anyone has done anything similar or knows whether this is a straight forward rewire from the existing sub (tapping into a nearby power line) or if there are any reasons that this wouldn't be possible with the McIntosh system?

Considering something similar to this:

http://www.fusionelectronics.com.au/car/products/active-enclosures-cs-series/cs-10-Active-Tube-Enclosure

or something larger ie 12"

any feedback welcome.

Garth.

No matter what 'active' sub you buy, you will not be able to tap into a nearby power source. The amount of current any active sub will pull will blow the fuses in the fuse box.

Thats why you will be required to run a new power line from the battery.

In terms of tapping into the sub channel, its as easy as a line out converter. Just tap into the 2 sub wires, wire them into the LOC and then RCA's from LOC to 'active' sub.
Some active subs have a built in LOC, which means you just tap into the 2 sub wires and run them straight into the 'active' sub inputs.

Useful info, thanks Michael.

Is it a big job to run a new power line from the battery to the rear - ie DIY or get it done by a pro?

garthos wrote:Useful info, thanks Michael.

Is it a big job to run a new power line from the battery to the rear - ie DIY or get it done by a pro?

Pretty damn easy, just find a spot in the firewall. There is normally a spare rubber grommet that is easily accessible which comes out either above the pedals or under the passenger side footwell, then it's just a matter of running it through the existing cable management under the carpet.

btw I wouldn't replace it with an all in one such as that fusion, a single 10 or 12 inch sub in a well constructed box should be plenty. I've got an alpine type R in a pre fab box with 500 RMS going into it and it is more than enough.

Are you looking for car shaking bass or just a little bit more punch over stock?

garthos wrote:Is it a big job to run a new power line from the battery to the rear

As above, not difficult.
Just remember to put the in line fuse nice and close to the battery.

Focal make some very, very good powered subs. They fit under seat to save boot space and sound much (I'm talking MUCH) better than that Fusion crap.

This interests me, subscribed! Please post here if you end up upgrading the subs.

cheers guys.

owen1r wrote:
Are you looking for car shaking bass or just a little bit more punch over stock?

Something in between I guess. And something that could be easily reverted to the stock sub if the space was needed in the back or if taking the family away

garbo41610 wrote:Focal make some very, very good powered subs. They fit under seat to save boot space and sound much (I'm talking MUCH) better than that Fusion crap.

mmmm, under seat could be a good option to save on the boot space - I'll check out the Focal range, cheers Phil.

Anyone know how much RMS the stock amp would be outputting to the stock sub?

about 30w RMS... If that

Get something above 300 rms depending on budget and that should be plenty.

If you need to go away, you can just disconnect the subwoofer and have less bass for awhile.

owen1r wrote:Get something above 300 rms depending on budget and that should be plenty.

If you need to go away, you can just disconnect the subwoofer and have less bass for awhile.

Power has little to do with anything. The focal bus25's that I've had experience with had out performed a lot of dedicated sub/amp combos with much more power. That includes the McIntosh sub I have being powered by 300wRMS in my Sherpa.

garbo41610 wrote:

owen1r wrote:Get something above 300 rms depending on budget and that should be plenty.

If you need to go away, you can just disconnect the subwoofer and have less bass for awhile.

Power has little to do with anything. The focal bus25's that I've had experience with had out performed a lot of dedicated sub/amp combos with much more power. That includes the McIntosh sub I have being powered by 300wRMS in my Sherpa.

True, but from a reputable brand comparing the peak output is an obvious way to compare them and to give a baseline at what you should look for. Excuse my limited knowledge!

owen1r wrote:True, but from a reputable brand comparing the peak output is an obvious way to compare them and to give a baseline at what you should look for. Excuse my limited knowledge!

Peak power doesnt mean shit!

Its RMS power handling thats important.

And again, power handling doesnt mean it will perform better. It just means it can handle more power being thrown at it.

No no no no... Don't look at power figures when choosing speakers, especially peak power. Peak power is utterly meaningless. RMS figures are almost as meaningless. Music is a dynamic medium and whatever you're driving will rarely see 300wRMS (for example).

Prime example is the sh1tty little McIntosh sub I am feeding 300wRMS.

I have also fed subs rated at over 1000wRMS off a 40wRMS amp and it performed adequately. And for shits and giggles have also plugged subs into the mains, but that's just to watch them rip themselves to shit. Spent a LOT of money back in the day when I was single lol.

What I'm getting at is don't limit yourself to an arbitrary wattage range, it's almost the worst way of going about selecting speakers. Go out and listen to some setups and see what sounds good to you.

And if you're set on an active sub setup, Focal should be your first port of call.