My In-Dash Nexus 7 Project

[dr20t]

Chris - firstly massive cudos to you for you're dedication, knowledge and assistance on this subject. Well done mate

I have some queries as I'm considering going down this path once the rest of my car is sorted:

1. I have a prefacelift GT, which did NOT come with mcintosh (base model 03 not premium pack). However I have converted my interior to post facelift basically, although still retain the prefacelift clock and display. With the relocation kit, will I still be able to use my prefacelift clock/ display with the post facelift kit? I assume the panel relocation kit allows the display to be swapped hopefully?


2. My headunit is a kenwood mp3 / aux compatible (non mcintosh) *edit* - model number GX-204KH (its from an 07 outback) which currently has an aux cable connected to the centre console. I know the USB DAC will enhance audio quality, and this is great - but is there anyway of using the dac and electric designs fl21 unit whilst retaining the aux input for 3.5mm jack? Reason is I would like to use my iPhone occasionally to play stuff etc and the aux 3.5mm jack will allow me to do this.

Alternatively, (and forgive my noobness here), will the iPhone be able to sync with the nexus 7 via wireless or Bluetooth and thus negate the requirement for the aux jack??

3. Dovetailing from the above, will the nexus be compatible for hands free functionality with my I phone 5??

4. Is there a need for the 4 hub USB if I don't plan to run external hard drive? I honestly feel the 32gb will be plenty for my needs (music, torque app, hands free phone use and maps).

5. I'm comfortable with the wiring side of things but newb to the android system - so may need some further guidance on the reflash you spoke of etc, as I've read the pages you linked and alot of it went straight over my head. Some more research may help flush out some of these newb android questions swishing around in my head.

Thanks for any help in advance and props to you again for your input to this awesome mod

Mick

[Statts]

Chris - firstly massive cudos to you for you're dedication, knowledge and assistance on this subject. Well done mate

I have some queries as I'm considering going down this path once the rest of my car is sorted:

1. I have a prefacelift GT, which did NOT come with mcintosh (base model 03 not premium pack). However I have converted my interior to post facelift basically, although still retain the prefacelift clock and display. With the relocation kit, will I still be able to use my prefacelift clock/ display with the post facelift kit? I assume the panel relocation kit allows the display to be swapped hopefully?


2. My headunit is a kenwood mp3 / aux compatible (non mcintosh) *edit* - model number GX-204KH (its from an 07 outback) which currently has an aux cable connected to the centre console. I know the USB DAC will enhance audio quality, and this is great - but is there anyway of using the dac and electric designs fl21 unit whilst retaining the aux input for 3.5mm jack? Reason is I would like to use my iPhone occasionally to play stuff etc and the aux 3.5mm jack will allow me to do this.

Alternatively, (and forgive my noobness here), will the iPhone be able to sync with the nexus 7 via wireless or Bluetooth and thus negate the requirement for the aux jack??

3. Dovetailing from the above, will the nexus be compatible for hands free functionality with my I phone 5??

4. Is there a need for the 4 hub USB if I don't plan to run external hard drive? I honestly feel the 32gb will be plenty for my needs (music, torque app, hands free phone use and maps).

5. I'm comfortable with the wiring side of things but newb to the android system - so may need some further guidance on the reflash you spoke of etc, as I've read the pages you linked and alot of it went straight over my head. Some more research may help flush out some of these newb android questions swishing around in my head.

Thanks for any help in advance and props to you again for your input to this awesome mod

Mick

Hi Mick.

Thanks for the kudos. I try to help out everyone where I can.

1. This is an interesting question. There is a definite difference between pre and post facelift reloaction kits. If you are using a pre facelift info display in a post facelift interior, then that suggests to me that the physical fitting of the info display is the same, just the trim ring will be different. However.... As far as I am aware the pre facelift info panel displays a lot more info (clock, economy, distance to empty, ambient temp) than the post facelift (clock and ambient temp only?) so could there be a difference in the loom to carry that extra info? I don't know, but we need to research this more. Need to check the connectors on both looms. This will obviously affect the extension cable that comes with the kit. If the loom is indeed different, then you may have to get a post facelift relocation kit and make up your own extension cable.

2. Another interesting question. I believe that if your stereo has the AUX button on the front, you may be able to run both the factory AUX in kit and a changer-emulating device such as the FSL-21 (have you checked compatibility with your headunit for the FSL-21?) Need to look into this a little more, but if it is possible, then yes you will be able to achieve the desired result. Pressing AUX will get you your AUX in, DISC will switch to internal 6-disk and pressing again switches between it and your external changer (in this case an emulator such as the FSL-21).

3. Not at this stage. Tablet Talk is the common app for phone connection (though it is still waiting on voice over bluetooth to be ported), but this only works between Android devices. I don't believe these is any way at this stage for an Android tablet to communicate with an iPhone. The possible only solution to get phone audio through the speakers would be with something like a parrot hands free run to the second input of the FSL-21 (if that's what you use). You'd have to switch away from the tablet audio though (there's a headunit button to press to switch between FSL-21 inputs).

4. Nope, absolutely no need unless you want to run more than one USB attached device. Even if you do want to add a USB HDD or TV tuner etc ONLY, then the USB OTG y-cable has one female USB port for adding ONE external device.

5. No problems mate, I was an iDevice devotee at one stage too, so it was all foreign to me when I made the switch (back when Galaxy S2 was released) too. As mentioned earlier, more than happy to help anyone with any stage of their project.

Hope this helps, any more questions, hit me up in this thread, by PM, email or on facebook (I'm in the club.lib group)

[dr20t]

Thanks for your detailed response

I am still using the prefacelift clock/ display, which you rightly point out has more display parameters than the post facelift. Also, the post facelift display won't sync with my ecu so it won't work

If I order the post facelift relocation kit (to suit the different shape ashtray surround), I was the hoping to put the preface clock/ display unit in the plastic post facelift holder. Does this make sense? Having not seen the relocation kit in person, I don't know if its one piece or able to split like the factory one from the vent holder?

Thanks for clarifying about iPhone compatability. Does this apply to Bluetooth as well? Ie Bluetooth connection from iPhone to nexus 7? At least that way I can try to find a solution to the hands free matter once I know Bluetooth can sync up.

And finally, thanks for your offer of support I will most likely take you up on this

Just found a nexus 7 32gb wifi for $180 brand new, so going to purchase this

Total cost will be:

Nexus 7 32gb - $180
Sat nav display- $220
Clock relocation - $80
Mini-box dcdc-USB - $100
Behringer USB dac $40
Electric designs fsl21 - $200

Total $820

Does this sound about right?

Mick

[Statts]

I reckon we're on the same wavelength for the clock relocation. The kit is simply a surround that fits in the ashtray hole, a bracket that clamps the info display into the new surround, the extension cable, and some screws to hold it all together. Does that make sense? Provided the info displays are physically the same, I'd say it's all going to bolt up fine, just the wiring will be the issue (but a couple of plugs from a wrecker, some wire and solder will fix this). The factory pre facelift info display simply comes away from the vent/cubby panel with a couple of screws from behind.

Yes issue applies to Bluetooth as well. I know for a fact people are working to crack the Bluetooth on the Nexus 7 in order to make it work as a Bluetooth hands free for Tablet Talk. If they nut it out, I'm sure it won't be long for someone to develop a universal Bluetooth handsfree app.

Your list of parts seems about right (though some very cheap prices in there - I'm curious). The important thing you have missed is the USB OTG y-cable. This is the most important part of the whole project as the USB-ROM power features such as sleeping, waking, charge + OTG, DAC support etc etc won't work without an OTG cable plugged in. You will also need a few misc cables such as a USB extension cable for hacking up to make a charging port on the end of the DCDC-USB output. I can step you through all that, as I have with NhojM.

[dr20t]

Indeed all understood. And yes I did miss the y cable which I know is important piece of the puzzle

[NhojM]

Hi Guys

Does anyone anyone know much about UCCW widget app, just did a widget for my Nexus 7 and it doesn't load up. I have installed Nova Launcher and turned on Hot Spots mode

Appreciate any guideness

Cheers,

John

[pgardiye]

finished installing everything this weekend... .. still some marks here and there... but can't be bothered to bog/sand paper any more... had enough

[pgardiye]

Hey John,

Did you get this sorted out? I hope you have got UCCW app installed then any widgets you would need. Under home screen if you press and hold should be able to see widget option --> UCCW widget size --> select from ones you have installed. Should load up...

Hi Guys

Does anyone anyone know much about UCCW widget app, just did a widget for my Nexus 7 and it doesn't load up. I have installed Nova Launcher and turned on Hot Spots mode

Appreciate any guideness

Cheers,

John

[NhojM]

Thanks mate will give it a crack tonight.

Bloody big job doing what you and a few others have one with all the prep and painting! Saves a few bucks tho and the Sat Nav Facia most certainly arn't cheap!

[BlackSTI]

Hello,

Just trying to get my head around how to power everything.

Is it viable to go from a constant power source within the car to powering the usb hub, which in turn will power a DAC / hard drive and the nexus 7 (but I believe the OTG cable needs some modifying as per https://sites.google.com/site/sonicboom ... g-diagrams).

Am I heading in the right direction?

Thanks.

[Statts]

finished installing everything this weekend... .. still some marks here and there... but can't be bothered to bog/sand paper any more... had enough

Looking good mate.

Hello,

Just trying to get my head around how to power everything.

Is it viable to go from a constant power source within the car to powering the usb hub, which in turn will power a DAC / hard drive and the nexus 7 (but I believe the OTG cable needs some modifying as per https://sites.google.com/site/sonicboom ... g-diagrams).

Am I heading in the right direction?

Thanks.

Firstly, why would you want your DAC / HDD powered up even when the car is not? With USB-ROM, it is perfectly viable to have the hub powered by the USB-OTG y-cable. If you think your USB hub required more power, use the second output of the power supply (unless you plan on using a cheap shitty power supply) to give power to the USB hub.

[BlackSTI]

Firstly, why would you want your DAC / HDD powered up even when the car is not? With USB-ROM, it is perfectly viable to have the hub powered by the USB-OTG y-cable. If you think your USB hub required more power, use the second output of the power supply (unless you plan on using a cheap shitty power supply) to give power to the USB hub.

Sorry misunderstanding, I would have a switch to manually turn off the tablet (thought behind this was I could sync it over wifi etc while the car is off), not sure if this is the best option, but it would be easy to swap to accessories if that works out better.

I just realised you may be using the cable imaged below, I was just thinking of a full sized female usb to micro male connection which is where I was getting stuck.



Is that similar to the cable you have used in your installation?

Thanks.

[pgardiye]

Hey BlackSTI,

Yes that is the correct OTG cable. You can buy through these guys if you want it quicker, I know there are cheaper ones on ebay, but shipping take ages.

http://www.usbonthego.com.au/on-the-go- ... power.html

Is that similar to the cable you have used in your installation?

Thanks.

[Statts]

Firstly, why would you want your DAC / HDD powered up even when the car is not? With USB-ROM, it is perfectly viable to have the hub powered by the USB-OTG y-cable. If you think your USB hub required more power, use the second output of the power supply (unless you plan on using a cheap shitty power supply) to give power to the USB hub.

Sorry misunderstanding, I would have a switch to manually turn off the tablet (thought behind this was I could sync it over wifi etc while the car is off), not sure if this is the best option, but it would be easy to swap to accessories if that works out better.

I just realised you may be using the cable imaged below, I was just thinking of a full sized female usb to micro male connection which is where I was getting stuck.



Is that similar to the cable you have used in your installation?

Thanks.

No, I am using the same cable as pgardiye linked below. Less mucking around with cables, as it has the female MicroUSB for the charge cable.

For your wishing to have the tablet able to be powered while the car is off, just run a switch that bridges constant power to the ignition sense wire if you're using a good power supply like the DCDC-USB

[pgardiye]

Sorry to hijack this thread. But here is something useful if you are like me who want to save battery life on your phone. My main issue was to turn bluetooth on and off when I'm only in the car to talk with tablet talk and bluetooth headset. I always had to remember to either leave bluetooth on all the time or activate it whenever I get into the car. So basically left it turned on all the time and my battery was draining faster than normal.

however, with this app called Profile Flow now you can activate/deactivate certain features of your phone based on time/date,s etc.. and pretty useful...

https://play.google.com/store/apps/deta ... c.taskflow