club.liberty.asn.au

Hi All,

Getting mixed answers.

I am looking at getting a monoblock Kenwood KAC-8105D as it has speaker level input and sensor turn on. Now the big question, can i remove the stock sub and use the sub wire as my speaker level input directly to the amp?? Has anyone done this?? One installer said it will just make random noise others say yes it will work.

If it works i only need power and ground and might install myself. I like the look of the Pioneer TSWX303 sub and box as it has the slopped rear to sit snug in the boot.

Thanks in advance

Troy

My understanding is that some power amps/active subs have a dedicated input for that purpose and the option for remote volume control too...

Where can put the remote wire? what color is the mcintosh amp remote wire? want to use that if i can

I'm no expert but...
Buy an active sub with the right features (remote & speaker level input)
See Mihai's post below for wiring info!
Active sub remote has own control/ wiring - run that to mounting point just under the dash or mount in coin box or fuse door.

got a mono with speaker level input and sensor turn on but was not working the auto sensor on is not working, so used a blue remote wire to turn on but need a switched source somewhere thats why i thought the stock amp must have power and a remote wire i can tap into

See Mihai's post below for wiring info!

the sub should auto turn on when it receives an audio signal : the speaker level input....

Thanks mate.
After looking around might try the stock amp for remote or power if not cig lighter plug will work in the centre console

Not sure what you mean by "remote" in this instance.

See Mihai's post below for wiring info!...

First of all BBB, never EVER run the positive of an amp from the stock wiring.

You should always run a new run of power direct from the battery positive for the positive on any amp (with an inline fuse offcourse).

All amps have 3 power sources. Constant 12V, Remote On, Ground. The remote is connected to a 12V ACC Switched source to tell the amp that the car is in ACC so the amp should be on.

If you are keeping the factory headunit, the easiest way to get a 12V source to turn on your amp is from the cigarette lighter.

Thanks very much.
So a fused fuse tap source would also be appropriate for the "Remote On" input?

bigBADbenny wrote:Thanks very much.
So a fused fuse tap source would also be appropriate for the "Remote On" input?

Yes. A fused fuse tap source would be appropriate for the "Remote On". Provided its connected to a source that is only +12V when the ACC is on.

In what instance could a power source not be +12v ?

bigBADbenny wrote:In what instance could a power source not be +12v ?

In the car, if you connect to the dash light circuit, you will find that given the dimmer position it will not be +12V unless on full brightness.

If you connect the remote turn on for the amp to the dash light circuit, depending on the voltage threshold of the remote turn on, the amp may not turn on. Ie. If the remote needs to sense greater than 10V to turn the amp on, but only 9V is applied, the amp will not turn on.

And what I was getting at in my last post was the fact that it needs to be a ACC switched source. If you just connect to any +12V source, you may get unlucky and connect to a wire that is constantly +12V. Which will mean your amp will be constantly on (even when the car is off and your key is not in it! )

Cheers, thanks for the clarification.
I'm asking because I'm rewiring my AEM wideband gauge - 12v from battery is recommended but I'd prefer to use the cabin fuse box - perhaps the lighter fuse using a fuse tap.
Any danger?
The dimmer fuse will be tapped for the gauge illumination wire too.

That should be fine, Benny. Perhaps think about using one of these if you'd like to give it its own fused power source....

http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/add-a-circuit