club.liberty.asn.au

Hi Everyone,
I have a subaru liberty gen 3 in desperate need of a full system upgrade! No i don't quite have a budget, but listening to good music is a great passion of mine. I have done somewhat, quite a bit of research, but there is never to much. This is what i have come up with. Any advice or opinions are welcome

- Pioneer AVH P8450BT (when it comes out in Australia)
- JL Audio C5 650 splits
- JL Audio C5 650x coaxials
- JL Audio XD 700 watt 5ch amp
- JL Audio W3v34 Subwoofer

Should i go a bigger amp to the JL Audio HD 900 5ch, or should i go with 2 separate amp, a 4ch for speakers and a monoblock for sub?

What are peoples opinions on this setup? i am after a smooth, clear, and quality system.

Thanks
Alex

I'd recommend going for two amps.
1 x 4channel or 2channel for the front speakers (reason for 4channel is if you choose to add a second pair of splits to the front, or choose to upgrade the rear speakers you have two spare channels. Also you can run the fronts bridged which will give the speakers a cleaner output)
1 x mono for the sub

Don't bother with rear speakers, theres no point since you are in the front.

Thanks man, the reason for upgrading the rears was that i think one is blown, but maybe ill get cheaper ones like C2650s? will it be much of a difference in the car having two types of speakers in the car?

And you recommend 2 amps, so like:
- JL Audio XD 600/1 Mono Amp
- JL Audio HD 600/4 4ch for speakers?

Have you actually heard any of these speakers in a car? Speakers sound completely different on a sound board to a car. It sounds to me like you've read a few forums which is a good starting point, (Mobile Electronics Australia is prob one of, if not the best Aussie car audio forum. Nothing compares to actually hearing the speakers you are wanting to spend your hard earned on, in an actual car. Ideally powered by an amp.

Is there a reason you want to go with JL Audio for your entire set up? Mixing and matching will yield you better results in the end. Think of it this way, if JB Hifi sell it, look elsewhere Don't get me wrong, JL do make some nice gear, there is just a LOT better out there for the $$$. Look at mid spec'd CDT and Crescendo as a starting point.

You haven't mentioned anything about sound deadening which is almost a must for Subaru's and their inherently flimsy doors.

Will you be installing yourself or having a "pro" do it? If so, you'll need to budget for an install. FHRX Studios and formAUDIO I would suggest in NSW.

As for 5ch amps, they have come a LONG way and are pretty grunty and can hold their own against a lot of multi amp installs. However, if the amp dies, your whole system dies. I'd suggest a decent 4ch and a mono for the sub. One thing I will mention that hasn't been covered is; don't worry one for one second about matching RMS values of amps to speakers. Look for an amp that exceeds the recommended RMS values of the speakers you end up buying. This will ensure that the amp doesn't have to be run excessively hard to achieve the same output. And anyway, RMS values provided by manufacturers are pretty meaningless. Just don't go overboard and hook up your new subs to a 240v GPO and you'll be fine.

As for an opinion, you can do a LOT better for the money you are looking to spend. Also, unless you have passengers in the rear seats ALL the time, don't buy rear speakers. They are a waste of money and do nothing for the overall sound. In general, to achieve "best" results, you should be looking at having the sound faded all the way to the front and hence no sound coming out of the rears.

Overall though, you're on the right path, there are probably a few things I have covered in posts like yours so you might want to search some older posts myself and a few other guys have contributed to. Also, don't take my word for a pinch of shit, get out there and find out what sounds best to you. In years gone by it was nothing for me to spend $1,500 on a set of splits only to get sick of them in a few weeks, sell them off at a half of what I bought them for and go out and spend another $1,500+ on another set of splits. It is a habit that can quickly get you into junkie territory LOL. Now, I'm driving around in a Sherpa with a stereo made up of second hand gear that anyone that was serious about car audio would laugh at and also a GenV GT with a stock stereo which sounds worse than my Sherpa LOL. In my Sherpa's defence though, it does have one of the best "imaged" sounds I've heard in a while that doesn't utilise an external processor, size DOES matter and processors are for pussies anyways However, in the last few weeks and months I have been trialling different bits and pieces in my GT and other installs I have done for people recently and am hoping to get everything together and budgeted for and passed by the minister of internal finance and relations in the coming weeks. So I'm hoping one day soon I will be able to have a thread that rivals andy85's sex on wheels stereo.

Also, here is something I've posted previously from FHRX Studio's site.

$500 System
Source Unit: Clarion CZ201A / Crystal EDB410BT / Eclipse CD1200 / Sony CDXGT290
Front Speakers: Boston S95.3 / DLS426 / Eclipse SE6500 / Focal 690CA / Hertz ECX 690 / Orion CO650 / Polk DB650 / Rainbow Dream Line KS165

$1000 System
Source Unit: Clarion CZ201A / Crystal EDB410BT / Eclipse CD5030
Front Speakers: Boston S60 / Crescendo Opus 1 / DLS B6A / Eclipse SE6500 / Focal 165V1 / Hertz ESK165 / Orion CO625 / Polk DB6501 / Rainbow Sound Line SAC 265 25
Amplifier: ARC KS300.2 / Audison SR2 / DLS CA22 / Eclipse XA4200 / Focal SOLID2 / Genesis Profile 4 / Orion CO300.2 / Zapco Reference 350.2
Cable: Audison Connection / Stinger
Deadening: Dynamat / FhrxPaint / Stinger

$2000 System
Source Unit: Clarion CZ301A / Eclipse CD5030 / JVC KD-R826BT
Front Speaker: Boston SR60 / Crescendo Opus 3 / DLS MS6A / Eclise SC6500 / Focal 165V2 / Hertz HSK165 / Morel Ovation 6 / Orion C2.62 / Polk DB6501 / Rainbow Sound Line SAC 265 25
Amplifier: ARC XDi803 / Audison SR4 / Boston GTA504 / DLS CA31 / Eclipse XA4200 / Focal SOLID4 / Genesis Profile 4 / Orion CO600.4 / Zapco Reference 360.4
Subwoofer: Boston G212 / Crescendo Etude1.10 / DLS RW12 / Eclipse SW6012 / Focal 30A1 / Hertx ES300 / Image Dynamics ID12 / Orion CO1248
Cable: Audison Connection / Stinger
Deadening: Dynamat / FhrxPaint / Stinger

$3000 System
Source Unit: Clarion CZ501A / Becker Grand Prix / JVC KD-R926BT
Front Speaker: Audison Voce / Boston Pro60SE / Crescendo Opus 5 / DLS Nortica / Focal 165KP / Hertz HSK165 / Morel Ovation 6 / Orion C2.62 / Polk MMC6500 / Rainbow CS 265 Profi
Amplifier: ARC Audio KS300.4 / Audison SR4 / Boston GTA504 / Eclipse XA4200 / Focal FPS4.160 / Genesis Profile Ultra 4 / Zapco Reference 360.4
Subwoofer: Audison Voce / Boston G212 / Crescendo Etude1.10 / DLS UR12 / Eclipse SW8200 / Focal 33V1 / Hertx HX300 / Image Dynamics IDQ12 / Orion HP12
Cable: Audison Connection / Stinger / Furutech
Battery: Odyssey PC1200MJT / Optima D35 / Stinger SPV44
Deadening: Dynamat / FhrxPaint / Stinger

Wow, what a post!

Thanks for that! Yes i have heard all of this is a car and is sounds great in my opinion, but it was off a kenwood amp. There really is no reason why i have gone with al JL equipment. I have talked to many people in different car audio shops, and they all have said with this equipment i would not be dissapointed. I have heard nothing but great things about their equipment, form everyone ive talked to! I have been told not to worry so much on the rears an therefore thinking about upgrading them to just C2 650 coaxials to fill in. I am going to have a go at installing this my self. giving me a little more to spend on equipment. I have been also told to at least sound deaden the front doors, this is the only part of the install that i think i would really have trouble with, but i havnt really done much research on this..
One thing i do like about the JL amps are their size, they are quite small, and this is good for me planning to put the amps under the car seats.

As much as i want the best system out. i want the clearest and really smooth running system, that doesn't cost the world. my budget tops around the $3500 mark and that is like absolute max looking around the 2000-2500 mark.

All good mate. Hit me up if you want any more info on gear/install techniques etc.

Hey Alex,

If you would like to have a listen to my Subaru wagon just send me a PM.
Mine was done for around that money. See components in sig.
I have no rear speakers or centre channel just front splits $450.00 second hand, a sub $350.00 new, 5 channel amp $700.00 and a sub box I made myself.
Oh, and a processor $550.00
Professionally installed for around $1000.00 and yes, you can install for less but don’t. Don’t even think about it. Not even for a second.
The install is the best money you will ever spend and worth every cent.

I’m at Kogarah most days and Cronulla on weekends,

Richard

What exactly does a processor do?

toson1911 wrote:What exactly does a processor do?

Takes the input signal and adjusts it to create a better output signal.

Most processors are used to take a signal from a stock headunit and output a nice clean signal (not that they can't be used with after market headunits either). Stock headunits are over equalized to match the amps/speakers that are used in that car. Therefore when you replace speakers or add amps they can sound pretty bad with the stock headunit signal.

They are also used to adjust channels individually to create a better sound stage and correct any headunit output errors per channel.

so I am buying a new Headunit, i shouldn't need this right?

mihai wrote:

toson1911 wrote:What exactly does a processor do?

Takes the input signal and adjusts it to create a better output signal.

Most processors are used to take a signal from a stock headunit and output a nice clean signal (not that they can't be used with after market headunits either). Stock headunits are over equalized to match the amps/speakers that are used in that car. Therefore when you replace speakers or add amps they can sound pretty bad with the stock headunit signal.

They are also used to adjust channels individually to create a better sound stage and correct any headunit output errors per channel.

Excellent answer Michael and no Alex you don't need a processor. They are pretty high end gear and not for everyone.
The trouble is once you've heard the difference a processor makes you can never have a system without one.

toson1911 wrote:so I am buying a new Headunit, i shouldn't need this right?

No you shouldn't need one, but depending on your headunits tuning capabilities and how picky you are with your music you may decide to get one.

Bear2230 wrote:The trouble is once you've heard the difference a processor makes you can never have a system without one.

Provided that it is tuned correctly then yes. But if a processor isn't tuned properly the system can in some cases sound worse than stock.

Outstanding advices guys!!!

Alex, the boys here pretty much nailed it with the responses.

I'm going to give you two very important points:

AUDITION: Go out there and listen to as many speaker/amp combos as u possibly could and try pin point what really suits YOU. 99% of the listeners might love one brand but YOU might hate it. Everyone's ears are different.

INSTALLATION MATTERS: Can't stress it enough. I'd rather have a bit lesser quality gear and extraordinary installation, than top quality gear installed not at it's best.

At the end of the day, it's YOUR car YOUR $$$$ so do what YOU reckon is best.

Yes, im planning to go to a few more places this week, including lifestyle store, FHRX, and incar audio at Mcgraths hill. but i'm still keen to do the instal my self but, i think as long as i take my time, over a weekend, and make sure each connection is done 110% (plus im a perfectionist, so i am very picky about everything) i think everything will be fin, neat, and should be a good install.