club.liberty.asn.au

Awesome. Cheers for the info. If you remember, what is the OD diametre of the ring you cut? just purchased it, and wanna have it all ready to install once i receive it...

Cheers again

No Idea sorry. There is a template in the box that I used. It's actually part of the box you have to tear/cut out.

If the Sub is 8" I would think that the OD of the ring would be around 9.5" at a guess.

McDoof wrote:

Awesome. Cheers for the info. If you remember, what is the OD diametre of the ring you cut? just purchased it, and wanna have it all ready to install once i receive it...

Cheers again

No Idea sorry. There is a template in the box that I used. It's actually part of the box you have to tear/cut out.

If the Sub is 8" I would think that the OD of the ring would be around 9.5" at a guess.

awesome man, cheers

My sub foam is broken and looking for a replacement, this looks like a decent option and I think has better specs than the Polk options and priced between at $138 (+postage).
http://www.ryda.com.au/kicker-comps-4-8 ... -subwoofer

Detailed information http://www.kicker.com/8-comps-subwoofer-4-ohm

How would this go as a replacement? Would I need a spacer? Mounting depth is 9.8cm (3-7/8")

Might be a bit beefy for the stock amp so you may actually lose some kick. Are you getting a new amp too?
I can honestly say that I am more than happy with the performance of this one http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C84-10C8-4-Single-Subwoofers/dp/B0035CJTNO
Less than $100 delivered last I checked. It does need a 20mm spacer though to clear the inner workings of the boot mechanism. Still fits under the stock grill though.

Hey guys, I have a question.
So I pulled this 12 inch Kicker subwoofer and amp out of my old Mazda 3


I visited AAV car audio the other week, and they quoted me $240 to install this all in my Liberty gtb. (too much imo)
They said they'll have to use an rca converter or something for the amp to work.

So my question is, should I even bother installing both the amp and 12inch boxed subwoofer?
Or should I just get a straight 8inch sub replacement for the mcintosh system like the Polk MM840 or the Kicker that McDoof linked on amazon?

I have no idea what the specs are on this Kicker subwoofer and amp btw, but it sounded soo punchy in my Mazda. I want something that gives an nice thump. Would a simple oem sub replacement do that?

You, won't get the kind of kick you get from a 12" sub with a simple replacement. It just cleans up the sound a bit and gives it more punch at higher volume where the factory sub gets all distorted. Because the McIntosh system is already amplified I would assume you can tap into the pre-amp wires to get your amp and sub connected (I have not had a look at the setup because I just kept it simple this time). If you're not that handy with this kind of stuff though, then I would say that $200ish wouldn't be a bad price to get someone to wire it all up for you. Remember you are not paying for parts so much, you are paying for someone's time.
Personally I'm really happy with just the stock sub upgrade, I will still put some sound deadening in the doors though because they get a bit distorted at higher volume.

Purchased yesterday, was $104 delivered to Brisbane due to current exchange rate. Should be here in a couple weeks. Now just to make/find spacers...

McDoof wrote:Might be a bit beefy for the stock amp so you may actually lose some kick. Are you getting a new amp too?
I can honestly say that I am more than happy with the performance of this one http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C84-10C8-4-Single-Subwoofers/dp/B0035CJTNO
Less than $100 delivered last I checked. It does need a 20mm spacer though to clear the inner workings of the boot mechanism. Still fits under the stock grill though.

McDoof wrote:You, won't get the kind of kick you get from a 12" sub with a simple replacement. It just cleans up the sound a bit and gives it more punch at higher volume where the factory sub gets all distorted. Because the McIntosh system is already amplified I would assume you can tap into the pre-amp wires to get your amp and sub connected (I have not had a look at the setup because I just kept it simple this time). If you're not that handy with this kind of stuff though, then I would say that $200ish wouldn't be a bad price to get someone to wire it all up for you. Remember you are not paying for parts so much, you are paying for someone's time.
Personally I'm really happy with just the stock sub upgrade, I will still put some sound deadening in the doors though because they get a bit distorted at higher volume.

Yea ok, fair enough. Thanks for the reply.. I just thought installing a 12" subwoofer in the boot was pointless because its so much easier just to get a 8" sub replacement. Sounds like a 12" would be the way to go since I'm after 'punchiness'.

Oh btw, I rang up another mobile car audio installation guy (since I was after a cheaper install price) about installing my 12" sub and amp in my Liberty, and he said 'Na I won't take this job, the 07 Subaru Libertys are too difficult for amp and sub installations', which surprised me. May as well just go with the other audio guy.

07 Subaru Libertys are too difficult for amp and sub installations

Sounds like he is just a bit lazy. I think the issue is that there are no "plug in" pre-amp outputs on the system, so that means having to splice into the wiring for the signal before the amplifier and then making sure you cut out the correct channels after the amplifier. I think it would just take a bit of poking around.

My McIntosh rear sub blew last night and i'm thinking about getting this to replace it: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C84-10C ... B0035CJTNO

I've read i'll need a spacer around 18mm-20mm for it but I don't really have the knowledge or skills to make one myself. Is there something I can get online?

Cheers

Skyroshroud wrote:My McIntosh rear sub blew last night and i'm thinking about getting this to replace it: https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-10C84-10C ... B0035CJTNO

I've read i'll need a spacer around 18mm-20mm for it but I don't really have the knowledge or skills to make one myself. Is there something I can get online?

Cheers

just get a kicker comprt 8" sub, direct fit with no spacer. and still fits under the factory grille (for sedan).

Hi All,
I am having the same issue and have been seeing all this discussion but no one have been talking about the fact that these subs are not free air/Infinite baffle subs.
would that mean that the sound would be poor and when the trunk is opened there is risk of damaging it ?

Hi everybody!

A week ago I installed Kicker COMP8 subwoofer into my JDM Legacy BL5 rear shelf (replaced a stock McIntosh woofer). Added a 20 mm spacer and ensured that no waves are coming from the trunk. I have added an isolation material to the both sides of the spacer. To be honest, I am not impressed with the bass. Maybe I did something wrong. Then I put back an old McIntosh woofer (just for the experiment) and the bass was better. The reason of replacement was that I did the re-foaming process three times and I'm fed enough with it So, I decided to go with Kicker COMP8. I have found some positive feedback about this model and wanted to give it a try. Any recommendations on how to get at least the same bass level as before?

Hi folks,

I just replaced the stock McIntosh sub in my 2008 3.0RB wagon and thought I'd share what finally worked and what didn't.

Firstly, I ordered the Visaton that's been mentioned in this thread as a direct replacement for the McIntosh. On paper, it looks ideal, but the "basket" is a bit wider than the stock and the surround is narrower, so it won't fit directly in the hole. Maybe it would work with a spacer for a sedan install, but it didn't look like it would work on the wagon, with only so much room inside the grill cover. During the insall attempt, I did hook it up and thought it sounded similar to the original, but nothing special.

Then I did more searching and came across this little beauty from Hertz:

https://frankiesautoelectrics.com.au/pr ... -subwoofer

Yes, it costs twice as much as the Visaton, but bolts straight in, sounds great and has plenty of headroom in case I want to upgrade the amp in future! Very happy!

Cheers,

EG