club.liberty.asn.au

So after a year of full on research ive finally made my decision to start this project.

The only thing im going to do myself is sound deaden the trunk and floors. The rest will be installed by FHRX

Battery: D35
Cables and grounding: Stinger
Processor: BitOne
Front Stage: Focal 165KR2
Front Amp: Arc KS300.2
Sub: IDMAX10"
Sub Amp: Arc KS1000.1
Sound Deadening: Dynamat Xtreme

Heres what a full day of prep and 2 layers (Since sub going fire directly into the tailgate) of Dynamat looks like.

http://img820.imageshack.us/i/02012011749.jpg/

http://img84.imageshack.us/i/02012011750.jpg/

http://img814.imageshack.us/i/02012011751.jpg/

http://img585.imageshack.us/i/02012011752.jpg/

http://img534.imageshack.us/i/02012011755.jpg/

The rest will come in the next 2 months... So stay tuned

Thats some good work there.

Just a note though, you don't have to have 100% coverage with Dynamat for it to be effective. End of the day its only there to add weight to panels so that they don't resonate. Panels such as the pillars on either side of your back window will be very sturdy and hard to resonate. So dynamatting those two pillars was a bit pointless IMO.

hey mate,

Sounds like a pretty decent system going in, and FHRXare no doubt one of the best installers in the country! Looking forward to seeing the pics of the actual install, Marty should give you a cd with hundreds of pics on it. I had them install my last set of front splits and the took about 60 or 70 haha.

mihai wrote:Thats some good work there.

Just a note though, you don't have to have 100% coverage with Dynamat for it to be effective. End of the day its only there to add weight to panels so that they don't resonate. Panels such as the pillars on either side of your back window will be very sturdy and hard to resonate. So dynamatting those two pillars was a bit pointless IMO.

I found the tail gate to be pretty flexible and hollow. To me it needed maximum reinforcement since the sub is going to fire directly at it.

Subs will sound best if fired inches from the tailgate. By the time the low frequencies reaches the front, it wont overlap the mids or highs.

Most part of the trunk and floors will only be a single layer of Dynamat. Only some weaker panels will be double layered.

garbo41610 wrote:hey mate,

Sounds like a pretty decent system going in, and FHRXare no doubt one of the best installers in the country! Looking forward to seeing the pics of the actual install, Marty should give you a cd with hundreds of pics on it. I had them install my last set of front splits and the took about 60 or 70 haha.

yeah... they're definated THE BEST IN SYDNEY... and one of the best in Australia
lolz... thats because he took step by step from deadening to making the baffles ey? hehhe

what else did they installed for you?

I only had them install my front splits, I would have done it myself but at the time I was going through some major back surgeries (I still am) from a cricket injury.

Are you sourcing all your gear through FHRX???

The guys there actually made about 4 or 5 sets of baffles to try and get the imaging right due to the head unit not having TA settings etc.

garbo41610 wrote:
Are you sourcing all your gear through FHRX???

The guys there actually made about 4 or 5 sets of baffles to try and get the imaging right due to the head unit not having TA settings etc.

yeah pretty much all of stuff will be from them... other places didnt have much of a good deal.

are u planning on any audio installs for your MY10?

Good to hear you got the whole package through Marty, his prices are always competitive and his after sales support is great. Although he would still be happy to help you out if you didn't source the gear through him, even though he doesn't have to.

Basically the entire audio system needs an upgrade lol. At some stage I will start upgrading bit by bit, probably the sub first. It is a lot less powerful than in my Gen 4 sedan. Whether that is because of the added distance I'm not sure but it needs upgrading anyway.

The front stage will get upgraded at some stage with either a set of CDT 2 way splits or perhaps a good 3 way set up. Not 100% sure as yet.

Centre channel is a bit lacking as well so I might do something with that. From what I have seen it is just a 4-5'' driver so it shouldn't be too challenging.

Rears are adequate as they are for passengers and I have them faded out anyway.

Whether I look at upgrading the head unit or not, I am not sure. I do like the look of the OEM touch screen.

garbo41610 wrote:Good to hear you got the whole package through Marty, his prices are always competitive and his after sales support is great. Although he would still be happy to help you out if you didn't source the gear through him, even though he doesn't have to.

Basically the entire audio system needs an upgrade lol. At some stage I will start upgrading bit by bit, probably the sub first. It is a lot less powerful than in my Gen 4 sedan. Whether that is because of the added distance I'm not sure but it needs upgrading anyway.

The front stage will get upgraded at some stage with either a set of CDT 2 way splits or perhaps a good 3 way set up. Not 100% sure as yet.

Centre channel is a bit lacking as well so I might do something with that. From what I have seen it is just a 4-5'' driver so it shouldn't be too challenging.

Rears are adequate as they are for passengers and I have them faded out anyway.

Whether I look at upgrading the head unit or not, I am not sure. I do like the look of the OEM touch screen.

hehehe good 3 way would be a killer so is the price hehehhe

Do processors interest u in any way? I'm hooked on these babies hehehhe

Yeah will probably look into a processor this time around. Probably won't pay the dollars that Audison are asking but who knows. I'll do a bit more research and figure out which gives the best bang for buck as there are a few more choices around these days.

A decent set of three way's can be a bit hard to justify, but the difference is sound quality is something not to be sneezed at. I will probably look at something like the CDT HD642. I have fallen in love with CDTs tweeters, they are so clear and their mid's are pretty damn smooth as well.

When it comes to sub bass, I'm not too sure which direction I will take. I need to keep the functionality of the boot as we have a dog that we take away camping with us and his cage takes up almost all the boot space. So I will probably replace the standard with something of a similar size or perhaps even take it out entirely and get a custom fibreglass enclosure made up and squeeze a 10'' sub in there. Being a wagon I don't think I would need more than a 10'' sub.

Are you just running a single 10'' sub???

garbo41610 wrote:Yeah will probably look into a processor this time around.

When it comes to sub bass, I'm not too sure which direction I will take. I need to keep the functionality of the boot as we have a dog that we take away camping with us and his cage takes up almost all the boot space. So I will probably replace the standard with something of a similar size or perhaps even take it out entirely and get a custom fibreglass enclosure made up and squeeze a 10'' sub in there. Being a wagon I don't think I would need more than a 10'' sub.

Are you just running a single 10'' sub???

Yeah same here... i'd like to make use 100% of the boot space. I did think about a fibreglass enclosure but even that takes away a small amount of space and plus for optimum sub performance, they say its best to place it right at the tailgate. So its going to come down to a removable box. Only down side is i wont get to listen to the lows while fully loaded hehehhe

yeah i reckon a single 10" with 1000watts @ 2ohms should be fine for me

they say its best to place it right at the tailgate

That's not necessarily true in all applications. I found in my old Mazda 323 Astina hatchback that the subs sounded better firing straight up.

I have also found in some applications the subs sound better firing into the rear seats, firing towards each other with one sub on either side of the boot angled towards the main doom light in the cabin and also firing towards the tailgate. I'd suggest playing around with the subs locations and the direction they point to find the best position for them. However, you also have to take into account the functionality side of things as well haha.

Taking all into account then yes, pointing them at the tailgate is probably the way to go, but, there are other options.

a single 10" with 1000watts @ 2ohms

That will definitely be fine in a wagon especially with FHRX doing the tuning.

garbo41610 wrote:

they say its best to place it right at the tailgate

That's not necessarily true in all applications. I found in my old Mazda 323 Astina hatchback that the subs sounded better firing straight up.

I have also found in some applications the subs sound better firing into the rear seats, firing towards each other with one sub on either side of the boot angled towards the main doom light in the cabin and also firing towards the tailgate. I'd suggest playing around with the subs locations and the direction they point to find the best position for them. However, you also have to take into account the functionality side of things as well haha.

Taking all into account then yes, pointing them at the tailgate is probably the way to go, but, there are other options.

a single 10" with 1000watts @ 2ohms

That will definitely be fine in a wagon especially with FHRX doing the tuning.

heheh its more applicable for full sized wagons i guess

man... been for busy lately so havnt got a chance to continue the deadening

I know what you mean, it is a time consuming process to do right. Are you filling the service holes with MDF or similar or are just dynamatting straight over them??? Either way you will notice a massive difference.

garbo41610 wrote:I know what you mean, it is a time consuming process to do right. Are you filling the service holes with MDF or similar or are just dynamatting straight over them??? Either way you will notice a massive difference.

nah... i'm just dynamattin over everything after giving it a good clean with metho. With the harder to reach places ive used some deadening spray (3 coats) just to make it as solid as possible

ive just done 3/4s of the trunk.. will post pix soon

So here it is... 6hrs (5hrs work, hr drinkin on the job ehehhe) worth of dynamattin

http://img827.imageshack.us/i/img0025ri.jpg/

http://img203.imageshack.us/i/img0028zl.jpg/

http://img844.imageshack.us/i/img0031or.jpg/

http://img146.imageshack.us/i/img0035nc.jpg/

http://img508.imageshack.us/i/img0036wl.jpg/

http://img207.imageshack.us/i/img0038mo.jpg/

http://img809.imageshack.us/i/img0039dr.jpg/

Some body deadener spray for the hard to reach places... ie tailgate outter layer and rear outter layer

http://img560.imageshack.us/i/img0040jv.jpg/

Now the tailgate closes with a REAL deep THUD hehheeh