club.liberty.asn.au

OK... Thought a thread may be useful which outlines what is involved with all the different upgrades that are possible on the MY07+ McIntosh system.

I am by no means well informed on these upgrades, but do want these guides to be as detailed as possible while remaining ACCURATE! So please post what you KNOW to be true(preferably from personal experience).

Current system consists of Integrated 6-disc CD/Radio, 5CH Amplifier, 112 random assorted speakers, 1 x 6.5" Free-to-air Subwoofer.

Obviously, a complete system upgrade would be ideal, but for those who don't want to go the whole hog, here is run down of the common "separate" upgrades:


Head unit upgrade - very do-able, but requires new headunit surround facia and climate control unit:
H6217AG910: SINGLE zone climate control (pre-facelift)
H6217AG911: DUAL zone climate control (post-facelift)
** Can anyone note whether there are colour options available?


Does not integrate with the s/wheel mounted audio controls(as far as I know there is no available adapter to suit?).
You will also need to by-pass the factory amplifier as there is no way to patch an aftermarket HU into the McIntosh amp (That would be a rubbish idea anyway).

Also, not sure if there is a wiring harness adapter available? Has anyone used one? Otherwise the new unit loom will need to be adapted to suit.



Amplifier upgrade - I am not 100% on this, but as I understand it, this is only possible using a unit to adapt from the correct line level output's from the McIntosh HU? Which is an unusual level? down to an RCA level input for the replacement amplifier.



Speaker upgrade - Speaker upgrade's are simple, simply remove and replace with aftermarket units. The front door 4-way speakers are most often replaced with a split 2-way speaker though as they are just as effective. Installing sound deadening at the same time is highly recommended and will greatly improve the level of improvement.


Subwoofer upgrade - very do-able again. And reasonably simple if you aren't after a huge improvement, as the speaker can be replaced with a low-powered aftermarket unit and will net some improvement which may be suitable, however combine with an amplifier upgrade for the best results.


This is just an idea I had as I feel it would be helpful for people interested in upgrading what is a somewhat ridiculously complicated system. Please add information to each of these upgrade's if you have things you feel would be useful! I am just going on what limited information I have and am hoping to build on that!

Ric - Feel free to sticky if we start actually getting some good feedback or more information on the different upgrades!

Nice start. I can see a lot of good information being put in this thread.

I think the standard mcintosh amp might be a 6 channel. 4 regular channels, centre speaker (on dash) and sub.

EDIT:

Part numbers:

H6217AG910: SINGLE zone climate control
H6217AG911: DUAL zone climate control

Ah k cheers! Will wait for confirmation on the Amp, but I think you may be right!

Are the part numbers including the facia above as well? Are they all the same colour?

yeah thats the kit...air con part and stereo facia...cant comment on colour sorry

I'll post up a heap of info here in the coming days. Have done everything that could be done here and a bit more. If you have a look through this thread it'll give you an idea.

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=22&t=10316

and these pages (from my personal site):

http://www.corptech.no-ip.org/doodads/htdocs/cars/MY07Lib_stereo_main.asp

http://www.corptech.no-ip.org/doodads/htdocs/cars/MY07Lib_stereo_frontdoors_install.asp

As strange as this may sound but i like the stock Mcintosh HU interface, its part of the character and appeal of the car. note: complete car audio newbie:

Anyhow looking for advice, my budget is $800 max for the system

So i take it, the best way to update is dynamat the front doors, install new power lines for the amp & HU, replace the amp and replace the rear speakers.
Replacing the front speakers will blow the budget i'd imagine.
I already have a 10inch MTX sub in an enclosure running from the factory sub lines.

What amp can i get and what rear speakers can i get that meets the budget?

Or should i just take it to a car audio place and just give them the keys to sort it out with the budget in mind?

For $800, the best bang for buck you can do is sound deadening the front doors.
After this, you're really looking at much higher $$'s for front speaker replacement (e.g.: mine are ~$1800 set for front doors) and they do sound great but also show the limits of the HU, amp, cabling.

Deaden the front and rear doors, appreciate the significant improvement in mid/bass and from your other statements, you'll be stoked.

EDIT:

As for amps, don't even bother. With deadening and your budget, it ain't gonna happen.
If you deaden the parcel shelf as well (I assume it's a sedan) then this will help the bass a LOT.

Hi mate, I have to be blunt here...Do not waste money on upgrading the rear speakers it will do nothing to improve the sound of the stereo. I wouldn't worry about upgrading the amp just yet. See how you go with the following first and then decide if you want to upgrade.

Will your budget include install costs or will you be doing it yourself???

If it includes install costs I would look at a semi decent set of 2-way splits for the front doors and dynamat. If you take it to a reputable installer, you're in Melbourne so if I were you I would look at Frankston Car Audio, they would take about a day to do it, and do it right.

If your budget doesn't include installation costs, then I would look at getting some dynamat for the front doors ($120 to $150) and a good set of splits ($400 - $500) this will leave you a bit extra for misc items such as mdf for the baffles and waterproofing for the baffles etc.

Suggestion of splits for the 2nd option would be:
CDT CL-62 - approx $470
Crescendo Opus 3 - approx $400
DLS DLS R6A - approx $500
Focal 165A1 - approx $330
Hertz HSK 165 - approx $480
Infinity Kappa 60.9cs - approx $400

Just do the sound deadening. As a self-confessed 'car audio n00b' I wouldn't suggest going to the extent of changing your speakers - the stock speakers are more than capable of the task for the minute.

Thanks garbo, ok forget the rear speakers.
The $800 excludes install costs, i would just buy what i need online and then install myself, with the help of inline DIy guides
So it would be Dynamat, Crecendo Opus 3, thats $550, leaves about $250 on an amp or beefed up cabling?

Oh btw do i need a dynamite door kit or the entire bulk kit?

Don't bother getting an amp. Upgrading cabling isn't necessary either.

I'd get the bulk kit and do front and rear doors as well as parcel shelf. You get the added bonus of having a very solid sounding door when you close it.

Damn Dynamat is about $250 for the bulk kit delivered..
Anyhow the focals are a bit cheaper.. at $350 delivered.
http://completecarsound.com.au/products ... egory_id=5

ok will leave the amp and cabling as is.

You get the added bonus of having a very solid sounding door when you close it.

+1 It sounds very European lol

Regarding prices, email Marty from FHRX Studios. He may be able to do you a deal on the pricing if you buy everything from them.

Also, do some research on the sensitivity ratings of the speakers. They aren't going to be fed with much power from the stock Mac amp, so they will need to be as sensitive as possible to make the most of the power they receive. The focals are a good choice as they are quite sensitive 92db. They are a good speaker but in my opinion they are a bit lacking in mid bass but I don't think you'll be disappointed which ever way you go.

I suggest you don't change the speakers until you've done the sound deadening. you might find the stock speakers are more than adequate.

I went a different route to you, changed headunit and amp because I wanted integrated satnav and iPod connectivity, and the amp was easier than integrating an aftermarket headunit to a very average Mcintosh amp I've sound deadened the hell out of my doors (two layers of Dynamat for a tight chamber) and have kept my stock speakers as they actually sound great with 84WRMS each. Same goes to the stock sub - 374WRMS to a sub which has "35W NOM 75W MAX" printed on it