Mo_GT's install

Stereos, amps, phone kits, Navi...

Postby Mo_GT » Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:20 am

suff wrote:
A) what have you / do you use


CAE is what i've used - www.cascadeaudio.com.

Dynamat and Stinger Roadkill are quite good too but not as easy to work with.

B) Would you be interested in helping me fit said matting? (beer and food offered as bribes!)

Change "beer" into "bourbon" and i'll give you a hand:)

Bye,
Mo
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Postby suff » Fri Sep 12, 2008 12:25 am

Jacks Jim or Turkey.. I have all three :)

And I am presuming that you used Vmax? My stereo is stock (and will stay that way most likely) purely looking to tone down the NVH
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Postby Mo_GT » Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:36 pm

suff wrote:Jacks Jim or Turkey.. I have all three :)

And I am presuming that you used Vmax? My stereo is stock (and will stay that way most likely) purely looking to tone down the NVH


Turkey please :)

I've used Vmax on the outer door skins and VB2 on the inside.

I've actually got a full roll of the VB3 left - this would be one of the most effective products to reduce noise and vibrations.

Also, to tone down NVH is a little bit harder to do than sound damp a car (for stereo purposes) as now you will have to look at external bits as well like - wheel arches, under body, bonnet, roof, etc.

Have a read on CAE's website they have some pretty good tech info and an interesting blog section.
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Postby jp928 » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:44 am

Mo,
I have done the HU part before on a single zone AC 05 OB. Do you have part nos and source for the dual zone controller please, and can you confirm that all the connectors just plugged straight in ? Also I dont see a discussion of how you routed the new speaker leads from the new HU to the speakers, or how you connected them to the macintosh AMP...or did I not read it properly? I dont want to go as far as you have, just change the HU to something better (already have one, and not difficult imho!), which worked well in the OB.
thanks,
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Postby Mo_GT » Mon Sep 29, 2008 11:19 am

jp928 wrote:I have done the HU part before on a single zone AC 05 OB. Do you have part nos and source for the dual zone controller please, and can you confirm that all the connectors just plugged straight in ?


I can dig up the part no for you in a couple of days (have to find the box in my messy store) or ask Mike (Phat GT).

With my install, what i did was swap out the std ac controls and knobs onto the replacement panel as the knobs were a bit different on this panel(silver not black).

Also I dont see a discussion of how you routed the new speaker leads from the new HU to the speakers, or how you connected them to the macintosh AMP

Thats cos there aren't any :) From the HU the signal is sent via RCA cable to the new amp in the boot and then speaker wire from that amp sends signal to the speakers.

I don't have any and/or not using any of the std stereo components/connections in the car.

Bye,
Mo
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Postby jp928 » Mon Sep 29, 2008 12:57 pm

Mo,
Thanks for that. If I understand you correctly, you ran all new wires from the new amp to the speakers from scratch? I dont really want to go that far - does that mean I would be up a for a way to convert my HU outputs to suit the Mac amp inputs? Do you know if there is a way to bypass the Mac Amp and feed HU outputs direct to the speakers? How hard is it to get at the Mac amp speaker connections?

thanks,
jp
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Postby Ric » Mon Sep 29, 2008 7:46 pm

jp928 wrote:... Do you know if there is a way to bypass the Mac Amp and feed HU outputs direct to the speakers? How hard is it to get at the Mac amp speaker connections?
...

There are no "speaker" outputs from the HU, just balanced low level signals all routed down to the McIntosh Amp via a single cable with large DIN plugs.
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Postby Mo_GT » Mon Sep 29, 2008 10:53 pm

jp928 wrote:Do you know if there is a way to bypass the Mac Amp and feed HU outputs direct to the speakers? How hard is it to get at the Mac amp speaker connections?


Thats going to be hard one - the std hu/amp combo also work as the crossover for all the speakers.

The biggest problem will be to split the signal to all the speakers from your new HU. For example : you won't easily find a 4-way crossover to split the frequencies to each front door.
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Postby jp928 » Tue Sep 30, 2008 1:48 pm

Mo,
Thanks for that, even if its the final nail in the coffin. At least I understand the situation a bit better now...

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Postby gtspec » Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:12 am

Hey Mo

decided to just attempt the install myself and so far going good.. i installed 2 front speakers with separate tweeters (replacing one of the stock tweeters on each door and disconnecting the other 2)

my problem is i got the same speaker/tweeter combo to install in the rears but have no idea where i can stick the tweeter in the rear doors as there is no obvious place like in the front.

What did you do for your rears? Did you need to cut any plastic from the inside of the door mold?

Thanks

Adam
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Postby Mo_GT » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:48 am

gtspec wrote:Hey Mo

decided to just attempt the install myself and so far going good.. i installed 2 front speakers with separate tweeters (replacing one of the stock tweeters on each door and disconnecting the other 2)

my problem is i got the same speaker/tweeter combo to install in the rears but have no idea where i can stick the tweeter in the rear doors as there is no obvious place like in the front.

What did you do for your rears? Did you need to cut any plastic from the inside of the door mold?

Thanks

Adam


Hey Adam,
I don't have any rear speakers...

What size are your speakers? If the mids fit in the doors you can always make a bridge for the tweeters.

I had to cut a little bit of the front door moulds for the front speakers as this bit was almost touching the speaker surrounds:

Image
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Postby gtspec » Mon Oct 06, 2008 1:18 pm

Speaker size 6.5 inch.. i can make up a bracket for the speaker to fit like i did for the front.. but i dont quite understand when you say i can make a bridge for the tweeters?
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Postby Mo_GT » Mon Oct 06, 2008 2:07 pm

gtspec wrote: but i dont quite understand when you say i can make a bridge for the tweeters?


Kinda like this (just rigged that up using what i had at home but u get the idea :D ). The red tape roll is supposed to be the tweeter :)

Get a metal strip (ally will do - just make sure its strong enough to support the weight of the tweeter in all driving conds.
Image

And install tweeter like so:

Image

Image

You can have the strip all the way over from one mounting screw to the other. And you will have to bend the strip in a way that it clears any and all parts of the speaker on full excursion. Run the wires for the tweeter along the strip and heat shrink.

And you can bend the metal strip to point the tweeter in the best possible direction to get the image/stage/etc just right.
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Postby gtspec » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:19 pm

thats a really good idea.. now just to find the right piece of metal

thanks for the effort of putting pics up also :)
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Postby Mo_GT » Tue Oct 07, 2008 7:09 pm

gtspec wrote:thats a really good idea.. now just to find the right piece of metal

thanks for the effort of putting pics up also :)


No probs, always glad to help.

For strips of metal try hobby shops (the kind that sell remote control cars, planes, etc), they sell shorter lenghts than the likes of bunnings where you'd have to buy a 1.8m or 2.4m length.
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