Wagon Subwoofer Enclosure Hideaways

[tom_kauf]

Not much else to update, just this

A JL HD750/1 (750W RMS Single Channel Amp). A bit oversized for the JL 500W RMS Sub, but it's one of only a few single channel balanced input amps (to match the McIntosh balanced system) over 500W that JL makes. And since I'll be doing a fully stealth install and mounting it under the driver's seat, I wanted the smallest and thinnest one. This is one of the smallest amps I found (only 4.9cm high, 19.95cm wide, 27.3cm long). This will clear my electric driver's seat in all positions.

They're crazy money, even from the US (US$700) , but I got lucky and found one cheap on Ebay Aus - one never installed in original box and receipt.

[tom_kauf]

And to go with my stealth install, a black fuse holder for the engine bay. The sub needs a 60Amp fuse . Since I don't like the brightly coloured (and pretty blingy) Amp install kits, and I'll be crimping ring terminals onto my own wires, I'll be buying pieces separately.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XScorpion-Inlin ... 0480474401

[bigBADbenny]

Keep it up! Loving the stealth so I want to see your power run from the battery etc

[tom_kauf]

We think alike in that regard . Mihai sent me a PM for a good source of inexpensive quality cables.

http://www.darvex.com

They have good Amp Wiring Kits, but the + cable is a fluro blue. Not great for stealth, but he pointed out that the first couple of metres are covered in a black sleeve. It protects the cables from engine bay heat too, which is good!

So I'll either get their kit, or buy their black power cables by the metre, and get the heat sleeve from eg here (that'd be even more stealth):
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=WH5626

And regarding routing from the battery, this is apparently the grommet most people use to go through to the interior.

This is basically the last thing I need to buy. So it might be a while before any more happens. I rush around to make sure I've bought everything, and then I don't have the time and it sits at home for a few months. Oh well, just the like the reverse cam install you helped me with - it got done eventually and is working great.

[bigBADbenny]

I'm going to compile my extensive to do list soon...
To me the fun of modding is to actually improve on stock, truthfully this is quite a challenge
Thanks again for the info.
Once I have power out-back for the fuel pump, I may even install a booster amp with remote volume for the Polk MM840 thats in the stash.

[tom_kauf]

Sweet

Yeah, I actually really like the McIntosh system - not much I'd want to improvce on. I think it sounds great. Just the bass is lacking.

[bigBADbenny]

Agreed, my Mac got really good when I Resomatted the door inner and outers, and I have some left over for inside the stock sub box.

I may do the inner rear quarter panels, under rear seat and boot floor as well.

[nytrojen]

I definitely need to dynamat the parcel shelf and doors. Rattles and buzzes are driving me up the wall. Plus I think the gutter trim may be buzzing too. Didn't have THAT in the Gen 4

[Out6ack]

Agreed, my Mac got really good when I Resomatted the door inner and outers, and I have some left over for inside the stock sub box.

I may do the inner rear quarter panels, under rear seat and boot floor as well.

I just ordered 60sq today to do exactly those areas Benny.
Ended up going with the Car Builders brand. Aussie company down your way somewhere.
Might throw a bit in the tailgate too. I guess you could say I'm getting my car lowered..

[bigBADbenny]

Go 25% coverage in the tailgate or less or it will be too heavy for the struts
Clarke C channel foam bits to insulate the wiring ftw

[Out6ack]

Go 25% coverage in the tailgate or less or it will be too heavy for the struts
Clarke C channel foam bits to insulate the wiring ftw

Yeah, the extra weight on the struts did cross my mind. Tbh, the extra weight on the whole car concerns me!
That C channel (or similar) might be good for the front door locking rods too eh?
Anyways, getting a bit off topic..

Your Sub box looks awesome Tom. Too much moolah for me to chime in on a group buy unfortunately, but damn, it would be my pick if I could - and that HD750 is gonna kick ..HARD!
Some very nice components you've pieced together there mate..

[tom_kauf]

Thanks Jay , will be a nice setup.
And I actually did the C section foam when Ben suggested it originally (I did a reverse cam instal). But I thought I wouldn't ever want to do the resomat, so I left it. Now I'm going back to do it, since I changed my mind lol.

[Out6ack]

Do you find you use the R cam much Tom? I mean, our wags are pretty good vision wise.
Still, I'm thinking of getting one myself because, well, it's a gadget, but they want a fair bit of coin for the decent ones ...As usual. Did you install it near the #plate or up above the glass?
I actually rely heavily on one all day every day operating dozers. I like to know exactly what model commodore it is that I'm reversing over..

[bigBADbenny]

I think the big box of Resomat was 10Kg.

Theres 2 approaches to application:
25% coverage just to kill resonance and or cover holes (eg door inners)
100% coverage or close enough: going nuts basically (eg door skins)

Some panels, eg door skins, boot floor, spare wheel well, under seat, firewall, cabin floor, roof etc. already have a smattering of factory sound deadener so YMMV.

Meaning you could get away with using a small box for the whole car with 25% or less application just to kill resonance whilst saving weight.

This special pricing is still on offer: Group Buy: Resomat acoustic dampener

[tom_kauf]

Hi Jay, it's handy to have, but not strictly necessary. You're right, visibility is pretty good in the Liberty, and they're not actually such big cars. I used to drive a Falcon Wagon for work, and they are LONG vehicles. And together with the fact that it was full of boxes for work (up to the roof sometimes), I've reversed into a few things in the past. Mainly in tight shopping centre carparks. Oh, and the rock beside my driveway . But when you go to 6-8 busy shopping centres a day for work, it's obviously a much higher risk than what I do in my personal vehicle. That was before I got the Lib, but I was still keen to have the cam for that reason.

The main 2 things I find useful are judging Distance, and Night Parking. Trying to judge if you're 1m away from the car behind, or 30cm is hard without a camera (or parking sensors). Especially if the other car has a towbar or bullbar. It's just nice to see the Green/Yellow/Red lines on the screen, so I know I'm safe to reverse for another little bit.
And with my super-bright LED reverse-lights (thanks to Leo on this forum), rversing at night is great. The camera had good night vision - probably because my reverse lights light up the area behind my car, even in total darkness if there are no stree-lights etc.

Unlike you, I had never used a reverse cam before. The downside is definitely forcing myself not to only look at the screen. A few times I've been focusing on the screen and almost take my side mirror out against a pole.