adz975 wrote:Thanks for the advice all
Amprok - thanks for the offer - but am up in Ipswich in Qld - Not a lot of car audio shops left - just JB and Autobarn - though I am interested in finding out how you got around the amp/headunit issue.
Generally happy to pull things apart myself (replace my head unit a couple of times in my old my99 WRX - lot less hassle) - less happy about electrical stuff - especially if it involves soldering.
Did talk to Autobarn about it a while ago - they seemed a lot more positive about what I had in mind then (splicing a parrot system in to the existing system and locating it in the top cubby hole)
Might go and speak to them as JB don't seem interested in doing business.
Disclaimer- I'm not an expert and don't claim to be. This is just an account of my recent experience swapping out the audio in my 3.0R!
Save yourself some time, and learn from others mistakes.....I contemplated many scenarios for keeping some of the factory components for a couple of weeks, but in the end, and after some good advice, I decided to replace HU and amp. Sure it might have cost a little bit extra (amp was on special for $140), but the headache I saved, and knowing that the end result would still be a compromise if I kept the Mac amp, $140 was well worth it.
Thinking of the system this way might help....most head units have a built in amplifier, and have a wiring harness exiting them that you connect to your speakers, power, amp, etc. The Mac unit does not have an internal amplifier, but a remotely located one connected to it by a DIN cable. So when swapping out your head unit only, you can get your power, etc from the mounting location in the dash, but you'll need to make your speaker connections at the loom that exits the factory amp. Given that most HUs are putting out more power than the Mac amp, I really didn't see any advantage in keeping it.
I've just removed the Mac unit from my MY05 3.0R and replaced it with a Clarion VX404AU, which is a very good bang for bucks HU ($400). I added a 4 channel Pioneer amp, and a Polk 10 inch sub in a box, and kept the factory speakers (which I am more than happy with now that they are powered correctly). I left the factory sub installed, but disconnected it. I simply disconnected the factory amp, ran my rear speakers off the HU to the factory plug that exited the Mac amp at the factory amp location, ran my fronts off the new Pioneer amp to the factory plug that exited the Mac amp, and bridged channels 3 and 4 for the sub. There are excellent pinout diagrams available that show which wires are which for the factory speaker loom. The factory 8 ohm speakers aren't an issue and work fine with a 4 ohm rated HU/amp- they will simply not see the full power being delivered by the HU/amp. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that the issue arises when you go the other way, i.e. if you had 2 ohm speakers in the vehicle, they, or the HU/amp would be quickly cooked if pushed.
The comment from the JB "installer" re the multiple speakers is BS, and I suggest that you stay away from anybody that gets confused by that. I'm not a qualified car audio installer by any means, and I was able to do it just fine. On a side note- don't tar them all with the same brush- I received some very sound advice from the installer at the Browns Plains JB Hi-Fi, who had an excellent understanding of the Liberty/McIntosh system.
Mine is pre-facelift, so I did only need the $130 fascia panel, which was a perfect fit. All up, the fit-out cost just under $800 and took a full day. I am fairly meticulous with this stuff- so the interior came out, wiring was routed correctly, and every connection was soldered and covered in heat shrink. If you're a "I'll just tuck the wiring under the carpet, twist and tape my connections" kind of guy, you'd probably save yourself a few hours off the install time, but I'd suggest you carry a fire extinguisher at all times.

Happy to be corrected, or answer questions if you have any.