Left speaker rattle problem.

[teK--]

... plus the satisfying thump when closing the door too

[EchoNoise]

Because I don't want to stuff up my Liberty, do I ask my local audio installer to deaden the door?

[cpitts]

Because I don't want to stuff up my Liberty, do I ask my local audio installer to deaden the door?

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5354

Alternatively, you can get a decent installer to do some deadener install for you. But there's a big labour component which means it'll not be that cheap.

[GTB Liberty]

Because I don't want to stuff up my Liberty, do I ask my local audio installer to deaden the door?

http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5354

Alternatively, you can get a decent installer to do some deadener install for you. But there's a big labour component which means it'll not be that cheap.

+1 - If your not prepared to do it yourself your up for $s.

[EchoNoise]

Bugger.

I'm a bit hesitant to do it, lol.

Money isn't really an issue at the moment

I might get some quotes, if they are too high, then I might delve into the unknown.

[teK--]

Sound deadening isn't a hard job it is just time consuming to do properly.

For a first timer my advice is to pick a quality product (not necessarily expensive. Stinger and Dynamat are good but too expensive IMHO), and clean the surface absolutely spotless with degreaser, then use a hairdryer or heat gun to soften the sheets, and use a hand roller or handle of a screwdriver to press everything in tight into the panel contours.

Much better taking your time then the sheets coming off in places and having to do it all again later.

[cpitts]

Sound deadening isn't a hard job it is just time consuming to do properly.

For a first timer my advice is to pick a quality product (not necessarily expensive. Stinger and Dynamat are good but too expensive IMHO)<snip>

Agreed it takes time and a lot of patience.

I'd also comment that having used cheaper deadening solutions and then used Dynamat Extreme (~$220 for a box that will do all doors, parcel shelf and still have left overs), I'd pay the little extra for Dynamat SIMPLY because it goes on a WHOLE lot easier and sticks and stays stuck!

I've had ZERO issues with my Dynamat install but had constant peeling issues with my stiffer/cheaper deadener install, even with decent cleaning beforehand. If the cheap deadeners are just too hard, it won't soften up properly and adhere!

The few $$'s extra saved me HOURS of time and many rolls of gaffa tape.

EDIT: Expect to be quoted something like $300-500 to do 2 layers on the front doors (outer metal skin of the door panel and inner panel (just behind the door plastic) with mid level deadening (Dynamat or basic Stinger). Dynamat Extreme or similar may push you to the higher end of the $$ range. It's all about labour rates.

[tangcla]

... and many rolls of gaffa tape.

Don't skimp on cheap gaffa tape either. The cheap shit don't stick.

[GTB Liberty]

... and many rolls of gaffa tape.

Don't skimp on cheap gaffa tape either. The cheap shit don't stick.

+1 - Nashua Gaff is the ONLY gaff I will use.

[teK--]

... and many rolls of gaffa tape.

Don't skimp on cheap gaffa tape either. The cheap shit don't stick.

+1 - Nashua Gaff is the ONLY gaff I will use.

+1. Also when it comes to electrical tape I only ever use Nitto. No one wants to feel sorry that they saved $1.00 per roll and bought the cheap stuff!

[SpecB]

Back to the original post - I had a similar thing with mine. It ended up that a screw that held the speak in place was loose. I just tighted it.

Also I think that this section should to posted in the place for people with a PhD. Some of thar crap was "wow". Either too much time on your hands, or you're in the game.

[cpitts]

<snip>Also I think that this section should to posted in the place for people with a PhD. Some of thar crap was "wow". Either too much time on your hands, or you're in the game.

Audio guys can get a little 'into' it and it very quickly turns into physics wave theory.