Custom color your badge background.

[Kekotic]

Thanks Hame-dog.
They will be going on Tomorrow when the paint is fully dry! Couldn't wait for tomorrow to get some photos of the finished product I had to post tonight

I will update tomorrow with the finished result hopefully. I'm a bit hesitant with the rear badge removal as it has 2 long sort of fingers that go inside the boot, plus it's double sided taped. Not keen on snapping those fingers inside when I try pry it off tomorrow.

[Brunsy3.0]

let us all know how you go with the removal, and how easy/difficult it was to do

im going to give this a go very shortly on the rear and hope to get as good a result (got the 400 grit wet/dry but also some 600 grit wet/dry and hope to get a good result, fingers crossed)

thanks for the info hamish and Kieran, and every one else that has inputted to this great writeup

[Kekotic]

thanks for the info hamish and Kieran, and every one else that has inputted to this great writeup

Did you mean Mark? Hamish hasn't really done anything here. Although he did optiguard my car a while ago.
You should be thanking Mark cruisn for the guide and info. And yes I will let you know how I go with the removal today.

[cruisn]

Nice work.

FYI, 400 grit is all you need as it does indeed leave the badge looking cloudy and scratched. This is a good thing as it gives the paint a surface to stick too. Too smooth is not the best.

The paint fills all the fine scratches left by the sandpaper and they become 100% invisible.

[Kekotic]

Nice work.

FYI, 400 grit is all you need as it does indeed leave the badge looking cloudy and scratched. This is a good thing as it gives the paint a surface to stick too. Too smooth is not the best.

The paint fills all the fine scratches left by the sandpaper and they become 100% invisible.

Yeah I had originally painted the smaller one with just the 400 grit and it looked alright, but I only did 2 coats cause I wasn't expecting it to work because of the cloudyness. So there were some gaps and stuff. And so I decided to sand it back and start again and polish it up like the other one because I was obsessed with making them clear

[Brunsy3.0]

my bad, mark is the man indeed

had a few too many australia day beers i think, probably shouldnt be posting in that state

but good write up and info i will be doing this when my new bumper is here and getting sprayed

has anybody tried taking those silver bits of trim out of their door cards? looks like theyre plastic rivetted on?

[Kekotic]

Installed them today, here are some pics and info on what to do.

Remove the boot liner so you can access the little finger things on the rear badge. This will help you to push it up a little. There is so much double sided tape on them though that in the end I just used a flathead and pried it up, didn't care if I made any marks under the badge on the paint because it will be hidden forever anyway.




I used super glue to attach the badge to the silver surround, and then double sided tape to secure the surround to the boot.


Getting the front badge off was a pain in the ass, I tried fishing wire and heating with a hairdryer but no luck. I noticed the front badge also has 2 tiny little finger things to connect to the grille.


I have the Spec.B grille so on the back of it you have to take off a few screws to get this back section of the grille off so you can get better access to the little badge connectors. I used a screwdriver to push on the connectors which lifted the badge up just enough to get a screwdriver under them and pry it up. Again stupid amounts of double sided tape.


Again super glue for the badge to the surround, then double sided tape badge to grille.

[Brunsy3.0]

big thanks to Mark (Cruisn) for this walk-through and general idea, and to all others input to make the job easier

just had my spraypainter give it a couple of coats while he was spraying a few other parts

thanks again

[tony_m]

Hi guys,

I tried once and failed to get the rear emblem apart. Unlike the front emblem which just falls apart when it's removed, this one was rock solid. Seems like my car, and a few other guys, has a different emblem to earlier Liberty's.

Scared of damaging it, I gave up and re-glued it to the boot... but it was like an itch I couldn't scratch! All I could find was a bit of info about drilling through the back of the logo... But the guy who did this ended up with a couple of holes in his finished product, not ideal. But if I had to, I had to...

Here are a couple of shots of the badge, in the first one you can see the hole I slowly drilled. About 2 rev's per sec, super slow.. Go until until you just see the tiniest indication that it's touched the blue. Stop here! Aim for blue too- not a chrome star. Drill bit was about 3mm.

Then heat up the logo with the Mrs's hairdryer to relax the adhesive, and use a small jewellers screwdriver to push through the hole into the back of the logo. There is heaps of adhesive to separate. Get a plastic pry tool to help work around the edge of the logo.

I used 400 grit sandpaper, dry, and laboured over the area where I touched the back surface of the logo - Took a while, but disappeared. I finished with 1200, wet. I am not sure this is necessary though.



The drill hole in the back and the corresponding mark on the logo. Note that the backing part is upside down- this is the side that attaches to the car.


The logo after sanding and polishing quickly. Divot is unnoticeable.


So if you're determined - give it a go. It is possible to get them apart, just be cautious.

WIll be painting in the morning, pics to follow.

Cheers to all for the info.

[Brunsy3.0]

mine came apart without drilling, seems to be the same badge (silver back piece and the likes) I had mine baking in the sun and then pryed at it very gently with a Stanley knife blade and it came out no worries

an inventive way of removing it though, if it works, it works

[cruisn]

You have to warm them up to soften the double sided tap and then theyre easy to remove. I use a heat gun.

[tony_m]

I have just started the 6th(?) attempt at fixing this back on to my car... Each time removing the adhesive, removing the paint and starting again. (Now the front badge - unbelievably easy. Sprayed and re-attached with silicone. No dramas. Looks a million bucks!)

The rear badge is such a tight fit, pushing on one side of the emblem will push the other side out. It's going to take a lot of force to get both sides in and flush. Note my pics above - different assembly to most logos.

First few attempts were with the same (cheap) spray paint. Siliconed it up and pressed it in - ruined the paint job which had cured for 24 hours. The silicone pressed into the paint and you could see the mess behind. Clean it up. Tried again. Bought double sided tape, which was too thick - badge didn't fit in the surround. Removing the tape removed the paint. Try again. Superglue - fail. Ruined the paint when pressure applied. Bought some plastic glue - 2 barrelled syringe job. Ruined the paint. Try again. Bought some nice expensive acrylic spray paint, looked amazing on the back with a high gloss finish - thought I was in business. 24hr cure and the plastic glue effing ruined the paint. Again.

Does anyone know of a super thin double sided tape? Most guys mention 3M, but looking at the images it still looks like about 2mm thick foam tape, which would cause the badge to sick out of the mount. Sick of looking like a bogan with my badge missing!!

[Brunsy3.0]

mate I got the same badge and I used silicone, I put a couple of big dobs behind the stars which don't show through the paint when reattached, has been on there for some months now and hasn't budged, I silicone it and taped it and left it for a few days just to be safe, after a few days of paint cure, again just to be sure

[tony_m]

I'd be tempted to use too much! I think that was my problem initially. Didn't really trust it haha. Cheers mate.

I found some thin double sided tape, Tarzan's Grip. I've stuck it back on, it's not quite flush but I've given up for now.
Might buy a new badge next time I'm near a Subi wreckers, as this one has started to crack- perhaps due to cleaning paint off with solvent about 5 times.

Next badge will definitely have to be one of the older assemblies.

[Kekotic]

As per cruisn said earlier, use 2 tiny dots of super glue.