club.liberty.asn.au

Hi all

Having been partial to sleeper wagons (loved my Golf R Wolfsburg until I had to sell it), and partial to Subes (owned a b3 RX sedan from new and a used ‘06 FozXTLux), the decision to buy a Lib wagon should’ve been obvious from the start. I even tested a VF SS commodore wagon but it just seemed laggy, bulky, and a bit boring despite the obvious power - kind of like a rugby league player. Logic told me that a gen5 GT would be the smarter choice over a gen4 GT (of some type), even though I can’t get over the thought of the gen5 looking like a lego brick on wheels. We test drove a fine example and it was just... meh. Finally got a chance to test a gen4 tbSTI today and man it was love at first sight. It was an ‘06 which wasn’t my preferred, but only due to aiming for a newer car - I hadn’t yet realised the engine differences between the 06, 07, 08. The thing was immaculate!

So now I come to get more info from you learned folk so that I may understand more about my new pride and joy, which I’ll be picking up next weekend after it’s had a service.

I’ll be UTFSE, but is there anything I should go into ownership being aware of? Tips? Suggestions? I’m only just understanding (correctly?) that the EJ20t engine was more reliable but less willing to carry modifications? I have no intentions to modify it much, we would like to keep it tidy for as long as possible in case we have to sell and keep value high. Its the 5sp auto (not my choice) and over 150k on the clock.

Thanks in advance, peeps! I’ve been having a bit of fun in my i30SR, but I’m really looking forward to getting back into a proper quick car.

Ps. I’ve read conflicting into re kw. Is it 190kw as per Carsales, or 200 as per wherever the hell I read that? What is the 0-100? Is the PTW ratio slightly higher in this compared to the 2.5t?

According to the original sales brochure, the MY06 GT is 190kW in the manual, and 180kW in the auto.
0-100 was 5.7s (manual) and 6.8s (auto)
I don't recall if the tbsti improved those figures at all.

Ric wrote:0-100 was 5.7s (manual) and 6.8s (auto)

Hi Ric

Did you mean sub-6 or sub-7 seconds?

Well "5.7s" is more precise than "sub 6", and "6.8s" is more precise than "sub 7", but they are consistent.

Welcome! Lotsa FAQ’s and info here

I’d recommend a Btssm first up so you know what the car is and isn’t doing.

Enthusiast owned cars are usually a good bet.

Ric wrote:Well "5.7s" is more precise than "sub 6", and "6.8s" is more precise than "sub 7", but they are consistent.

I’m just extremely surprised the difference from 0-100kph is so significant between manual and auto... or have I been driving DCTs for too long?

bigBADbenny wrote:Welcome! Lotsa FAQ’s and info here

I’d recommend a Btssm first up so you know what the car is and isn’t doing.

Enthusiast owned cars are usually a good bet.

What is a Btssm?

Boognish wrote:

Ric wrote:Well "5.7s" is more precise than "sub 6", and "6.8s" is more precise than "sub 7", but they are consistent.

I’m just extremely surprised the difference from 0-100kph is so significant between manual and auto... or have I been driving DCTs for too long?

Well there's always some loss through a torque convertor. I guess those ones didn't lock up.
I also have a suspicion those old auto boxes were a bit rough shifting under full power, so they deliberately detuned them a bit.

Turbo libs don’t even have a boost gauge or digital coolant temp gauge, you can get by with an elm327 and android app, but Btssm is only a little more of an investment for all the engine parameters, logging, learning view and virtual gauges:
viewtopic.php?f=56&t=27506

Please read all the FAQ’s and then ask

Granular forum search:

Use a google site search with your relevant keywords to search. Eg:
“site:www.forum.liberty.asn.au keyword keywords”

In the google search bar.

Thanks everyone ☺️ I’ll peruse the FAQs better...