club.liberty.asn.au

Hey guys.
Hey everyone. I posted this in ozliberty and ill say it here as well to see if any of you fine people can help me.

I just got a Gen 3 RX liberty wagon and Im looking at doing some suspension work to it.
The guy before me that owned it had the front with lowered springs and stock dampers.. now the dampers are pretty dead... and the car sits a bit to low for me..
So im looking at getting some suspension work done to it.. Nothing to crazy.. but an upgrade from stock and especially an upgrade from now would be nice haha.

Also. The rear sway bar had gotten loose and now is a bit stuffed.. so i think im going to replace that with a thicker possibly whiteline one while im there..

This is my first foray as such into a newer car so Im just wondering if theres any suggestions or places to look for a good suspension setup??

Im wondering If maybe i can just grab bilsteins and springs out of a B4 or some other car as a cheap option??

well.. Sorry if this is a stupid topic..
any help would be appreciated. thanks guys!

P.S. i will get some pics of the car up soon

cheers

Where are you?

Newcastle

Bilsteins out of a B4 bolt in, but you will need wagon specific rear springs or the arse will sag.

Get a Whiteline adjustable rear sway bar, so you can adjust it to suit your driving style. When you put it on, grease the shit out of the bushes too, or they become dry and squeak.

I'm running a combo of Bilstein shocks/Whiteline springs in my GenIII wagon as well as a Whiteline Anti-Lift Kit. This as greatly improved the overall handling of the car but the biggest improvemnet is turn-in. As it's an NA, at least for now, power understeer out of a corner isn't the problem the ALK is designed to fix however the improved geometry and stiffer bush has made the steering far more responsive and direct with the additional caster provided by the ALK.

I haven't as yet upgraded the sway bars as with the Bilstein/Whiteline set-up the car sits pretty flat in corners. The Whiteline springs lower the front of the car around 30mm and the rear about 10 which results in a more pleasing stance without being overly low and as I live in a country area this really helps on the crappy roads. This also doesn't attract any attention from the police, well at least not yet, and I've been pulled over quite a few times this winter. They look at it like something is different but can't quite pick what it is. The ride quality is firmer than stock but certainly not STI Impreza firm. It still jolts on square edged hits like potholes but generally it's still quite comfortable. My wife doesn't complain so that's a good indication.

I think the next step will be to fit a complete set of Nolethane bushes which will further stiffen the suspension without going to the bigger bars. I'm currently running Toyo Proxes 4s (approx 12000 ks) which are going well especially as I now have the pressures sorted. The whole set-up works well and hasn't cost a lot considering the improvement.

best improvement you can do to a lowered subaru is the RCK from whiteline. ALK is nothing in comparison.
you best bet would be a set of bilsteins with kinglows. 24mm rear swaybar. and a RCK.

Note: ALK = Antilift kit, aka caster control arm bushes. RCK = Roll center kit, aka tie rod end/steering knuckle extenders.

The ALK and RCK both have different objectives and it wouldn't be right to apply a blanket statement that says either one is more superior. The other mods and use of the car should be considered.

Depending on how much you are lowering, and also your spring/damper rates the improvements provided by the RCK may not be that noticeable. I.e. If lowering =< 30mm then the RCK is less important especially if spring/damper rates have been increased, which it usually is when lowering properly. If lowering more than 30mm then the RCK will be vital to raise the roll center above the ground level.

Increased spring/damper rates will provide increased roll resistance purely through resistance. RCK provides increased roll resistance through improved geometry.

In the first scenario of moderate lowering and increasing spring/damper rates, the ALK will provide better straightline stability and more dynamic caster (better turn in and mid-corner throttle control) which is more noticeable to most people who do not track their cars. Also the ALK is a much cheaper purchase and installation than the RCK.

IMHO unless lowering the car significantly >30mm then the RCK is not the ideal first choice, and the ALK should be purchased first (even on a stock standard suspension). I have found that most people who lower more than 30mm aren't that interested in a car that handles well anyway (because it won't) so this is really all fundamental.

P.s. I don't know why anyone would want to bastardise a set of Bilsteins by fitting King Springs to them Quality dampers won't compensate for a bad spring.