club.liberty.asn.au

Guys,
I having problem on rear left Camber after I lower my subie with tein coilover, it -1.66°, right is still acceptable -1.11°. According to the technician who alignment my car there no way to adjust it as you know there is no nuts to adjust the toe-rod except if you can modify with other type of toe-rod that he also don’t know what model can fit in.
Btw, I search it through internet and found Perrin Rear Lower Control Arm, seem may be this what I looking for?
My questions are anybody there having problem what I face now? What are their solutions? It is the correct item that Perrin Rear Lower Control Arm will solve my problem? And anybody knows what other brands can fit to replace my current toe-rods.
Really appreciate your helps guys.

You won't need new lower control arms, that is for huge adjustment amounts of toe and camber. All you need is the Whiteline rear camber adjustment bush kit. They are around $50.00.

That kit provides an adjustment range of around 0.5 to 1.0 degrees and will allow you to even up the rear camber.

Other things you should also check is obviously that the coilover heights have been evenly set between left and rear, as this will affect the camber and toe. Secondly, depending on your car mileage or how hard it's been driven there is a chance that the rear subframe has shifted and you will need to buy a rear subframe lock kit to straighten the back of the car. These are also only around $60-$70.00 tops.

I also noticed that you have more caster on your righthand side. You should get this checked out as they should be fairly similar on left to right. If anything you'd want more caster on your lefthand side to stop the car drifting towards the lefthandside of the road. If you don't have eccentric control arm bushes or pillowball strut tops installed, I'd say that the stock bushes might be worn.

Jim,
Whiteline rear camber adjustment bush kit you mean is with a Part no. KCA399? How about rear subframe lock kit? and eccentric control arm bushes or pillowball strut tops? Sorry I am bit blur.
Thanks you in advan.

Yes KCA399 is the correct part, it allows you to adjust the camber at the rear of the car. There is no need to buy the Perrin kit you posted as that allows much bigger adjustment of camber and toe. In this case you only need to correct one side by about half a degree.

teK-- wrote:Yes KCA399 is the correct part, it allows you to adjust the camber at the rear of the car.

Jim is spot on, i'm using KCA399 and my aligner dialled in -1.5deg each side .

KCA399 bush would do the job.
the perrin adjustabel control arms are good for adjusting camber , but more designed for wheel track.

increasing the rear track 5mm each side completely changes how the car will handle = more oversteer.
personally i am making my own rose-jointed rear end. changing all three arms.
has cost me under $200 to make them up. then i can adjust camber/toe/track all independantly.

vaccine wrote:personally i am making my own rose-jointed rear end. changing all three arms.
has cost me under $200 to make them up. then i can adjust camber/toe/track all independantly.

Want to make another set of the upper arms (one where the bump stop is supposed to touch) for another Gen III Outback owner?

can make a whole set of arms for a fellow outback driver if you like??
you know you want more wheel track, and some camber to play with.

Don't need the lower 4 arms, got a cheap (and I mean less then 1/2 price cheap) Whiteline kit from them when they fu<ked me around with the Roll Centre Kit (well 3 kits to be exact).
So just the upper/centre arm set would be great!!

Adjustable by roughly how much? I.e, would there be enough adjustment to use on a standard and lowered car?
The car is on Tein Flex's with the bump stops "trimmed", but who knows in the future (probably lower...).
There won't be a provision for somewhere for the bump stop to touch/hit will there?

depends how stupid you go with the ride height.
i run 345mm centre to arch in the front and 350 in the rear.
the front control arms pivot should be at least 20mm lower than the sub-frame pivot.
the rear control arms should be about the same. but as long as the out pivot is lower.
otherwise the roll centres will be too low and car will push.

with the ride height i am running there will be no problems as i have removed the rear bumps.
dont need them as my tein flex have bumps and i have utilised max shock travel.

dont get me wrong, the outbacks look nuts slammed.
i was running 320 front and rear and it looks amazing for a week, but got tied.
driving around on bump stops is not cool, not fast in corners.

if you are running the car that low then there is a strong chance they might foul on chassis rail and bend.

Your Flex's in the rear have bumpers? Same style as the ones in the front (and on Impreza's, Forester's etc)?
If yours do, i've been ripped!

I had the car pretty low - didn't measure it, but enought to have the fronts and rears tyre tucking about 1".
It does get old pretty quick, so raised it, and now have a couple inches of clearance between tyre and gaurds.

He might be referring to the internal bump stops in the damper?

my Tein Flex have bump stops on the shafts.
also used to have the bumps for top control arm to chassis, but they are gone.