club.liberty.asn.au

Hi there,

My brakes are starting to screech and I suspect they need some attention. They still feel fine but I believe they are still the original pads at ~130K.

The rotors look to be in very good nic, no visible ridge from brake pad wear.

I am looking at putting Dixcel Type M pads on the front but wondering whether there would be any noticeable benefit at all replacing the OEM vented rotors with Dixcel SDs?

Looks like new front rotors and pads would be in the vicinity of $600. Guessing machining the OEM rotors would be more like $60 + pads so half the cost. The rotors look to have plenty of meat left.

http://www.dixcelaustralia.com.au/rotor ... ce/sd-type

Cheers,

The Stock Spec B brakes are actually pretty good for the street. A good set of pads, good fluid, braided lines (ADR approved ones) and a master cylinder brace is all you need for a street car. Brembos are nice for the bling factor or if you want to go to track days but for daily duties and a blast through the hills the above set-up will well suffice.

What's a set of type m pads worth?

Yep, stock brakes are pretty good for the street, just run good pads and keep the fluid fresh.

I'm about to fit slotted front rotors, but it's really just for bling factor.

Ok cool so unless my rotors turn out to be close to limit I will keep them.

I now need to know what brake fluid, master cylinder brace and braided lines people are using . Worth doing all at once depending on how much it all costs!

Cheers guys.

I have dixel type m pads cant complain
Brake fluid currently have endless cant say on brake lines as it skipped my mind when i did my brakes but i would done so if i remembered
Maybe have a look in dba t2 rotors you can get them fairly cheap if i remember i think i paid 80 a rotor for the rears

Might consider getting the discs machined for perfect bedding in w/ new pads, fluids etc.

bigBADbenny wrote:Might consider getting the discs machined for perfect bedding in w/ new pads, fluids etc.

Advice I recently received is that any time you change pad compound, you should also machine the rotors.

The reason being is that once your pads "bed in" to your rotors, they actually leave a thin layer of pad material on the rotors themselves - it's the interaction between friction material on rotors AND pads that causes brakes to work efficiently. Some pad materials are actually incompatible with other materials, and can cause issues if you don't skim the old compound off the rotors when you put new compound pads on the car.

You're find if you don't change pad compounds (but replace an old set of pads with a new set of the same brand/model), unless the rotors are badly scratched/scored.

Or lipped iirc

bigBADbenny wrote:Or lipped iirc

Yeah, it's worth having any lips machined off. The rotors on the MY02 STI I'm working on are so badly lipped we're just replacing the rotors entirely (with DBA 5000-series stuff at that - but this is a track car!).

Remember to ensure your rotors stay above minimum thickness (any workshop with the gear to machine rotors should know this and check it before commencing work).

Yeah guys I was definately planning on maching just because it has been so long but interesting that this is a consideration even when changing pad types.

I heard the Type-Ms are very good yet they are 3 times the price of QFM which apparently are decent. OEMs are around $160 from what I have seen on flea bay.

Stupid question, but doesn't anyone use Bendix anymore? I know that Bendix Ultimates eat rotors quickly, but the next grade down (4WD?) weren't to bad on other cars I'd had in the past.
I know QFM have been around for years, and Intima are mentioned frequently. No one seems to recommend Bendix. Any reason?

I have just done dixcel type m pads and and sd rotors. It was a great deal although still costly. Worth the upgrade both in braking and looks wise