ShockWorks Wagon Coilover DIY Ride Height Measurements

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ShockWorks Wagon Coilover DIY Ride Height Measurements

Postby bigBADbenny » Fri Oct 30, 2015 10:48 am

OK so every time another shipment of the very excellent and relatively affordable ShockWorks arrives, I get at least one PM asking me for the ride height that the ShockWorks team used for my car. Luckily I've not deleted previous replys via PM and I've dug one up to share.

Since fitted, my set are at the same settings, and I'd still go up around 5mm at the rear, as my car is a little bum-saggy when fully laden.

Stock bump stops in place.
These are not super duper down low shocks, they simply get the most from what the chassis can handle.
And since this platform is somewhat travel limited, a damper with digressive valving is perfect.
Basically the more they're compressed, the more damping.
Meaning:
the the suspension becomes resistant to crashily bottoming out,
the wheels stay in contact with the road surface to a greater degree for better control and braking,
the damper works to keep body roll in check,
the chassis doesn't need to be tied down with heavier swaybars,
and the dampers front and rear work together to keep the diagonal balance and pitching forces in check.

The preload on the springs is set - as delivered, no need to readjust the spring preload, unless your suspension guru plans to reinvent the wheel.
The springs are custom wound 7kg/mm front and rear and the dampers are valved to suit.
Once again, no need to upgrade or replace the springs, unless your suspension guru plans to reinvent the wheel.
If he does, we wanna see some Hyperco hydraulic spring perches in there :P (note service life 10 hours/track use only/megabucks)

However on full or close to full soft, front and rear, with plenty of guard work camber for my pokey rims, I have maximum comfort even fully laden with passengers and cargo, on any road sealed or not. Thats 235 40 R18 +35 P-Zero Corsa, AVO caster bushes front, WL caster bushes rear. Its awesome.

They do follow the road, even smooth roads, but when the going gets tough the feeling of being in control actually increases, things remain composed and you can concentrate on steering or even countersteering if theres no grip.
If you up the damping they will follow the road, more.

Did you just order a set? :nyam:

Quote:
As the Lib on a hoist this morning, in preparation for replacing all of the rear control arms next weekend, I made these rough measurements.
I measured from the underside of the orange top mount plates to:
The top of the lower mount orange lock ring: Front 32cm Rear 26cm
The underside of the lower spring seat lock ring: Front 29cm Rear 20cm

So the gap between the lockrings is:
Front 3cm
Rear 6cm

These are just rough measurements from my 2.5T 6mt wagon at full droop, wheels on.
If you were to DIY your wagon install and wanted to get rolling to drive to your full setup and alignment, I'd suggest putting a couple of turns of preload on the lower spring seat lockring, comparing the length to my measurement (and altering or not accordingly) and then adjust the lower mount gap as listed, or a little more. A sedan would be lighter towards the rear so I'd expect those measurements would raise the rear a little.

As per the recommendations from this thread and Shockworks themselves, a professional setup to the way to go, especially one that takes into account full bump travel as per the MCA guide.

Unquote.

Furthermore, Shockworks set my camber plates up with the logo upside-down, eg facing toward the middle of the engine bay.
The camber plates are very thick, totally overengineered for maximum durability.

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^how ShockWorks set up my camber plates.

I have seen pics of a members setup with the camber plates effectively swapped side to side and rotated inward so the shaft is centered rear-innerward.
This is nothing new and is a setup optimised for maximum caster, eg leaning the shaft rearwards.

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^a members setup as installed by his local suspension guys.

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^fairly inaccurate, due to paralax, but you get the idea.

I'd try it, but generally that approach will slightly limit camber. But that can also be adjusted at the hub carrying spindle mount at the other end of the shock.
If thats still not enough camber, eg for track use, it may be possible to slot the lower mount holes or upgrade the mount with shockworks modified items.

I'll get Brett's opinion on the subject too or just discuss it with him direct, he loves to talk ShockWorks if you can catch him.
Owen may be able to add more info as he's got his setup for maximum attack.

Don't forget to take a peek at MCA's useful suspension setup guides, but remember that your Shockworks have the preload preset as supplied, dimensionally the shocks are made specifically for our chassis, so adjusting the ride height at the lower mount should suffice unless yours is a special case.
https://www.google.com.au/search?q=mca+ ... ent=safari
Remember this is simply a guide to get you to your alignment and corner weight appointment, it's very likely your toe will be way out at the front so get that done ASAP as soon and as close to you as possible, or as a last resort, DIY the toe adjustment using an online guide. Use any info here at your own risk, lives are at stake, ultimately.

Enjoy your ShockWorks!
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Re: ShockWorks Wagon Coilover DIY Ride Height Measurements

Postby 3rspecb » Sat Oct 31, 2015 7:59 am

Ben, this is how my shockworks have been installed by suspension specialist. Both sides the same with ShockWorks writing facing the inside of the shock tower. I also have Eibach camber bolts, Fulcrum control arm bushes (race) to give maximum caster and the Whiteline KCA313 Roll centre/bump steer - correction kit.


Image
Last edited by 3rspecb on Sat Oct 31, 2015 12:07 pm, edited 2 times in total.
MY06 3rspecb manual sedan, Urban Grey- Shockworks Coilovers '- Gone

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Re: ShockWorks Wagon Coilover DIY Ride Height Measurements

Postby PUDZ RSC3.0RB » Sat Oct 31, 2015 9:44 am

bBb - Appreciating this awesome informative thread, you never fail to disappoint. G - thanx also.

As my shockworks will be diy with my mechanic pre alignment, with my own research and ur post here I am now much more informed, especially concerning front
camber and max positive castor.

So with spring pre-load set our observations are - front preload just locked so spring still turns, rear preload a few turns tighter - spring doesn't turn. So just a
matter of setting up shock heights to what Ben has posted.

At this stage installation seems relatively straight forward, I am leaning toward setting top plates rear & inward for max positive castor as I don't have aftermarket
lower control arm castor bushes, but have phats j-speed lower control arm rear bushes. :)
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