club.liberty.asn.au

I was planning to take my coilovers out today and put my stock shocks & springs back in but when I went to put in the front strut it was a no go.

The two bolt holes at the bottom were 1-2 inches too low to line up with the hub assembly.

Any tips for getting them back in? Do I need to remove the sway bar to get the hub to drop down lower? Or something else?

Definitely undo the swaybar, no need to remove it, but it will be holding the hub up.

Otherwise I can't really think of anything else to lower it, maybe pop out the balljoint?

How come you're putting stockies back in?

Cheers, I was thinking from looking at it that the swaybar seems to be holding it up some.

Getting the coilovers rebuilt so going hilux mode for a little while
It going to be a sad time for a little bit.

Push the hub down with your foot and you should be able to line them up. But undoing the sway bar is the easiest way

rooby wrote:Cheers, I was thinking from looking at it that the swaybar seems to be holding it up some.

Getting the coilovers rebuilt so going hilux mode for a little while
It going to be a sad time for a little bit.

I got excited for a second there Rooby and thought the ohlins might me up for sale

Good luck with the rebuild

This happened to me yesterday while refitting my revalved bilsteins. I just pushed up/down on the knuckle until the holes lined up. Was a major pain in the arse but i got both sides done

The rears were very easy..

dr20t wrote:

rooby wrote:Cheers, I was thinking from looking at it that the swaybar seems to be holding it up some.

Getting the coilovers rebuilt so going hilux mode for a little while
It going to be a sad time for a little bit.

I got excited for a second there Rooby and thought the ohlins might me up for sale

Good luck with the rebuild

Haha, sorry to disappoint.
I'm pretty keen. Get rid of the knock and freshen them up.
Plus some new camber plates to replace the custom fixed ones kiks had before. They have a bit more camber than I need day to day.

3rspecb wrote:This happened to me yesterday while refitting my revalved bilsteins. I just pushed up/down on the knuckle until the holes lined up. Was a major pain in the arse but i got both sides done

The rears were very easy..

Yeah, I was going to undo the endlinks and see what happened but it was soon to be dark so I figured I'd try that another day.

What are you doing with your old camber plates?

I'll have no use for them, so I'm sure you can probably have them if you want them.
They are custom made: super tough, but not adjustable, and the camber bolts don't give me enough range for my liking.

Considering getting these: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.ph ... cts_id=304

Wait, they're knocking? Front or rear?

Those camber plates I made are fucking bulletproof. Just not pretty, or street friendly without a chunk of pos camber in the bolts.

For stickers back in, drop a swaybar link and I usually put wheel nuts on and stand kn them and slide a bolt in. Can be a bastard though. Also doing the three LCA rear bush bolts will drop it easy enough and a good chance to re grease everything.

kiks wrote:Wait, they're knocking? Front or rear?

Those camber plates I made are fucking bulletproof. Just not pretty, or street friendly without a chunk of pos camber in the bolts.

Yeah, in the front. Front left is knocking and I can't tighten it up as the allen key hole in the top nut is stripped it seems.

In theory a rattle gun should do it without need for the allen key. Would I be right to assume giving it a hit with a rattle gun is a bad idea?

Side question, to replace the allen key part would that mean a whole new shaft or can they be separated?

The plates are super tough, and I don't care what they look like, they're fine to me. The only thing is the camber being a little too much.
Do you remember what camber measurements you had with them?

The difference could be due to my ride height too. Lower = more negative camber right?

Hmm. If that Allen head on the shaft is munted, I could maybe suggest using a torx bit hit in with a hammer. Or alternatively, have a small 1/4" drive socket tigged on. Or just grip the top of the shaft in a vice if you're real dodgy, where the bump stop sits.

As for camber, it is dynamic based on height (full droop to bound is 3 degrees from memory) but it isn't a big amount. You could elongate the bottom hole of the hub and and use a 2nd camber bolt. Would be my pick.

How sure are you the heim joint (steel ball receiptical) is knocking? You could check the 4 screws to the shaft are tight. One has a slight bend thanks to the shit oem camber plates anyway.

Feel free to email me if you think I can help man as they aren't the kind of shock that gets a random knock :p

Yes to side question. Better off with putting an Allen head in and clamping it with a 2nd but split in half so it maintains the thread, and a fuckoff tight set if vice grips.

[(o)] if that makes sense and doesn't look like a disfigured labia instead ... :p

And a rattle gun will rotate the main shaft. Will not be good for internal shims or gas seal, nor top wiper seal so avoid that. Seen people destroy shocks doing so.