club.liberty.asn.au

I've done some google searching and can't find any information.

Is there any difference in the factory wheel alignment settings, between a standard Gen3 liberty, and a B4/GTB ?
I assume that having different shock/spring combinations makes no bearing on steering alignment settings? The direction the wheel points or turns shouldn't really be dictated or affected by how the wheel bounces up and down!
Or am I completely wrong?

Have recently fitted standard height Bilsteins (from a B4/GTB) to my wagon and asked for factory wheel alignment settings, but the steering is now very jittery... it's noticeably harder to keep it heading straight, it bump-steers, and doesn't handle corners like it used to on the lowered springs/stuffed shocks.

I realise there's all sorts of steering-geometry equations at play here, but for the layman - I just want to know if I've asked for the wrong thing, by asking for "factory" settings on the alignment.... in case there is definite differences between the settings for a B4/GTB versus NA vehicle, which I should have made clear when I got the alignment done. I didn't ask for B4 settings.... as I assumed they were identical

It feels like there isn't much self-centring occuring, which makes it jittery and squidgy when trying to hold it straight. Previously, with shagged shocks, I could still drive it smoothly and straight (depending on road bumps) with 1 hand... but now, it's a constant 2-hand effort ! No comments about driving style thanks..... it's a modern car with power steering.... it shouldn't be a struggle to hold it straight with 1 hand over mild bumps.

I realise I'll need to get used to the new suspension, and adjust/adapt my driving style accordingly to the new struts characteristics for cornering, but for straight-ahead driving, there just shouldnt be any difference. I just feel that something isn't right with the steering alignment.... but I'd like to check my facts before heading back to the shop for a correction. If they've done it wrong, I need to be able to prove it. If I've asked for the wrong thing, I will need to pay to get it re-aligned.

Can anyone advise (or link me somewhere) of the settings I should be running - effectively a B4/GTB with standard height Bilsteins all around?

I'll be up for a new set of tyres in the next month or so anyway, before a long road trip in January - so I want to have the info at hand before I get that done - but I've got a few months of driving on the old tyres to do in the meantime.... and I don't wanna mess up a brand new set by asking for the wrong thing.

The "hard to keep straight" property is usually referred to as tram-lining and completely separate from bump steer. Both of these are not behaviours you'd get (or expect) from a "factory" alignment with standard height suspension. Tram-lining can be affected by wider tyres, lower profile tyres, higher tyre pressures, worn suspension (hopefully not the case with new struts, but could be other components), increased neg camber or toe settings. Also given it's not lowered bump steer must be resulting from the front alignment.

If you have only changed the struts, I'd take it back and get them to confirm the front and rear toe settings. I can't find any factory specs for your Gen3 but Gen4 settings for toe are 0+-3mm front and 0+-2mm rear. So hopefully settings closer to 0mm or even -2mm toe particularly on the front would help.