club.liberty.asn.au

First off, have searched quite extensively but would like to consolidate people's findings on both the DBA 4000s and Dixcel SD slotted.

Pros:

Cons:

etc etc.

Basically am undecided which rotors to go with. Context: street use only, no tracking. Will have Goodridge braided lines with some sort of 5.1 DOT brake fluid and Dixcel Type M pads (front only). Any particular advantage of going Dixcel/Dixcel? Also, what is the best way to bed in the new rotors/pads?

Thoughts welcome guys.

alessandro132 wrote:Also, what is the best way to bed in the new rotors/pads?

Depends on the pad.
I think the Dixcel Type-M require a really hard brake going downhill? Maybe my memory is a bit off though.

6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

The only factor to consider between those two is price.

Personally I prefer the black painted hats versus silver.

chaotic2050 wrote:Depends on the pad.
I think the Dixcel Type-M require a really hard brake going downhill? Maybe my memory is a bit off though.

See, this is what I mean, 'cause I swear I remember reading Phat saying that you just need to drive sedately and gentle braking for the first half hour or so to bed them in...oh well, we'll soon get to the bottom of this!

P.S. I've noticed you're unsure of whether to get DBA's or Dixcel's yourself? What are your braking goals?

Mark, this is pretty much the same conclusion I've reached and it's reassuring to see that I'm within the ballpark here. Maybe it's just personal preference? Will admit that the DBAs look boss

alessandro132 wrote:

chaotic2050 wrote:Depends on the pad.
I think the Dixcel Type-M require a really hard brake going downhill? Maybe my memory is a bit off though.

See, this is what I mean, 'cause I swear I remember reading Phat saying that you just need to drive sedately and gentle braking for the first half hour or so to bed them in...oh well, we'll soon get to the bottom of this!

P.S. I've noticed you're unsure of whether to get DBA's or Dixcel's yourself? What are your braking goals?

Mark, this is pretty much the same conclusion I've reached and it's reassuring to see that I'm within the ballpark here. Maybe it's just personal preference? Will admit that the DBAs look boss

If you aren't tracking, just get whatever is cheapest? DBA's are proven to be good enough anyway. As for my braking goals, I'll probably go Dixcel just cause I like buying from the PHAT man
Like I said I could be wrong about that braking thing, maybe it was a long sedate brake downhill....that might be it? Makes sense with the whole downhill part.

chaotic2050 wrote:If you aren't tracking, just get whatever is cheapest? DBA's are proven to be good enough anyway. As for my braking goals, I'll probably go Dixcel just cause I like buying from the PHAT man
Like I said I could be wrong about that braking thing, maybe it was a long sedate brake downhill....that might be it? Makes sense with the whole downhill part.

Love that logic and I know I can get the Dixcels for $450 from Phat, the DBAs I was quoted $425 delivered from GSL RallySport so it's not really a price thing. Probably more of a 'share your experiences with either of these rotors' as I'm quite curious whether there is any real advantage having the Dixcels mated together or whether the pads make SFA difference to these rotors considering the intended application.

Also, why haven't you gone braided lines yet clearly Mark hasn't had his way with you yet

the way i see it is:
Dixel is a Japanese brand
DBA are an Australian brand

Yes, your buying the Dixel's through the PHAT man and he is great at what he does and what he is doing for the forum, but something tells me I should be keeping the money in Australia and supporting Australian brands
just my personal preference.

I went for the Dixcel rotors as (a) I was buying the M pads from Phat anyway, and (b) if they're good enough for Phat to recommend, they're beyond good enough for me.

The Type M pads only require light driving for bedding in. See response from Phat here: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7822&p=139229

alessandro132 wrote:Also, why haven't you gone braided lines yet clearly Mark hasn't had his way with you yet

I was going to but money is a bit tight at the moment due to all the mods and stuff I'm trying to do at the moment, so I already spoke to Mark and I'm just going to buy them when I buy brembos off him.

So it seems as if it's neither here nor there - I do like the idea of supporting a local business though so leaning towards the DBAs

I have DBA 4000 series at the front and they work a charm
They have had a big difference with how long it takes for the brakes to fade at all
so I would say DBA only cause I have only had good performance from them

SegR wrote:The Type M pads only require light driving for bedding in. See response from Phat here: viewtopic.php?f=38&t=7822&p=139229

I use the light driving method with my type Z pads and heat treated FS rotors……… no need for highway or downhill bedding in.

BTW Dixcel gets my vote even in basic form with SD rotors with type M pads, I even seen the DBA 4000’S after a little spirited driving they don’t hold up too well.

You would think a “local” product would be better priced when compared to the JDM item which is shipped from Japan, also remember they aren’t the lightest parts to ship either.

senator wrote:BTW Dixcel gets my vote even in basic form with SD rotors with type M pads, I even seen the DBA 4000’S after a little spirited driving they don’t hold up too well.

Tony, by not holding up too well, what exactly do you mean? Are we talking something relatively minor like brake fade or something more serious like disc warping/cracking?

alessandro132 wrote:

senator wrote:BTW Dixcel gets my vote even in basic form with SD rotors with type M pads, I even seen the DBA 4000’S after a little spirited driving they don’t hold up too well.

Tony, by not holding up too well, what exactly do you mean? Are we talking something relatively minor like brake fade or something more serious like disc warping/cracking?

I’ve seen on a few occasions a blotchy mark which appears on hard applications, it didn’t appear to be pad material transfer, it appears as if the blotchies were in sequence with the ABS kicking as they appeared in segments on the rotor face.

On the earlier slotted rotors I’ve seen the slots don’t appear to be deep enough so as the rotors wore you lost the cooling feature of the slots, this may have been fixed.

Brake fade only happens in extreme cases with any braking components (high end and basic packages), it’s usually a good indicator that the drivers has no idea about how to use their brakes effectively.

Cracking is common with cross drilled rotors which are used for the hard applications, again I’ve seen all brands and types of rotors with this issue, this is reason why most manufactures are steering away from cross drilled for performance applications.

Warping can happen on any brake package track or road spec, when the rotors and pads are not matched correctly, it occurs when the excess heat bakes the mad material on to the face of the rotor resulting in an uneven surface, usually a light skim can help solve the issue pending on how bad the warping is.

Very useful post, thanks Tony. All part of the learning process