club.liberty.asn.au

Afternoon Folks,

Just looking to see what is available to me (in stock form) on an 08 3R.B with respect to resetting the geometry.

I'm a little disappointed with the understeeer. I haven't RTFM yet, but it's playing on my mind.

Any little tips would be gratefully accepted.

Is camber F/R adjustable?

And does anyone have any somewhat more direct than standard geo settings that have proven themselves well. Would be especially interested to hear from anyone who tracks regularly?

bigger (and solid) rear swaybar.

then zero the toe all round (even a little toe out on the front for better turn-in)
and almost 2' of camber on the front
this has made mine turn and handle much nicer

Move the engine back.

cruisn wrote:

coyote wrote:Move the engine back.

hmm a boxer engine in the boot, now that would be something...

Robbks wrote:bigger (and solid) rear swaybar.
then zero the toe all round (even a little toe out on the front for better turn-in)
and almost 2' of camber on the front
this has made mine turn and handle much nicer

Thanks Rob.

2' camber on the front is a chunk. What do you do with the rear?

Doc wrote:

Robbks wrote:bigger (and solid) rear swaybar.
then zero the toe all round (even a little toe out on the front for better turn-in)
and almost 2' of camber on the front
this has made mine turn and handle much nicer

Thanks Rob.

2' camber on the front is a chunk. What do you do with the rear?

camber is fixed unless you change other components.
i haven't investigated what you need to do with the multilink rear end to get extra camber yet.

also, an ALK for the front is a good option aswell

ALK?

Anti Lift Kit

To decrease understeer increase rear stiffness, ie bigger rear anti roll bar.

So an ARB and a GEO reset.

Ok, thanks guys.

BJ wrote:To decrease understeer increase rear stiffness, ie bigger rear anti roll bar.

Negative.

Decreasing rear end grip is not removing under steer.

All changes should be made against the clock. A bigger anti roll bar in the rear is not faster. It just feels faster and is more snappy... So slow and loose. The rear bar rate does nothing to load the front tyres when increased.

Want to rid all under steer you need a wholistic approach.

A proper 'steer' tyre on the front. Federal 595rsr is the best value for money. I'm trying AD050 yoko's next.
Up the rear spring rate to about 6kg with stock fronts and remove the front sway bar completely.
Make new strut tops and aim for about 8 deg of castor. Using the factory bearings in a sandwiched heim joint would do fine. Ghetto pillowballs.
1.5 to 2deg neg camber in the front. 1 on the rear is heaps.
3mm toe out on all corners.

Replace every bush in the car with alloy or urethane.
Solid mount the rear subframe, diff, gearbox supports.

Once you start making power replace all 3 diffs. Once done you can add a front swaybar again. Until then it only serves to tripod the car keeping wheels off the ground.

With the above you'll our steer just about anything with a rego plate. You will also get 4-5k's max from a set of front tyres. Zero toe in the rear will stop the tram lining a little. Front toe out is needed. At least a mm.

Stock geometry is amazing at stock height. Stiffer rear also introduces some anti squat which helps corner exit front end grip a huge amount due to the stock dynamic toe.

Stock bilsteins are not valved hard enough as is.... Look at a proper set of shocks. Ohlins, dms etc.

And remember with no understeer there is no grip. It's a fundamental requirement of physics to exist.

stew07gt wrote:

cruisn wrote:

coyote wrote:Move the engine back.

hmm a boxer engine in the boot, now that would be something...

A 911!!

Lib_seanmau5 wrote:

stew07gt wrote: hmm a boxer engine in the boot, now that would be something...

A 911!!

Well im glad someone understood my joke