Braking causes shudder

[Deep Heat]

Any one know how much new rotors from subaru cost?

And does anyone have experience using dba slotted street series rotors with the stock pads?

[Dropz]

Genuine is a rip off, go aftermarket.

I work at a dealer and we often use aftermarket rotors because the price of genuine is stupid.

[Deep Heat]

Genuine is a rip off, go aftermarket.

I work at a dealer and we often use aftermarket rotors because the price of genuine is stupid.

Do you recomend any brand inparticular?

[Dropz]

When I get rotors I'll be going dba with bendix ultimate pads.

[GWB]

I had a large amount of shudder only when braking at + 90km. Machining the rotors completely fixed the problem.

[JKeep2.5i]

I had a large amount of shudder only when braking at + 90km. Machining the rotors completely fixed the problem.

how much does it cost to get your rotors machined?

[Dropz]

2 hours labour for all 4

[coyote]

Note that the problem is not the rotor, but the pad.

The shudder is almost certainly caused by uneven deposits of pad material on the rotor.

If your rotors are still within spec, better to keep them and change the pads.

[JKeep2.5i]

Note that the problem is not the rotor, but the pad.

The shudder is almost certainly caused by uneven deposits of pad material on the rotor.

If your rotors are still within spec, better to keep them and change the pads.

I had my pads changed and they still shudder above 90ks

[coyote]

Note that the problem is not the rotor, but the pad.

The shudder is almost certainly caused by uneven deposits of pad material on the rotor.

If your rotors are still within spec, better to keep them and change the pads.

I had my pads changed and they still shudder above 90ks

What pads and were the rotors machined?

[yipming]

If you changed the pads but the deposit is still on the rotor then it won't help. But otherwise highspeed brake shudder is usually caused by pad deposits on rotor.
And it can also happen to good pads. If after a few big stops, the pad is hold against the hot rotors. The pad surface will melt and stick to a single spot on the rotor. Where it doesn't cause problem at lower speed until you build enough heat for the deposit to melt slightly and become "stickier", causing the brake to shake and shudder.
The only diff is that the temp for it to occur with good/race pad is higher.

This is why at track days, the advise is to cool the brakes by driving slowly and not to come to a complete stop until they are cooled. It's also better for the rotor.

There are those who say it's worth a try to bring your disc up to heat and attempt to scrub the deposit off. But the usual disclaimer apply on doing this on public roads. This is probably what happened to the original poster.

Otherwise having the rotor machined should have positive result.