OEM Sti SHORT SHIFT for GT Spec B 6 MT

[jp928]

Current problem is what they call the COMPL bolt - horizontal connection to the selector shaft - just no clearance on the left to get it out, even levering on the box as much as I can muster. Bolt 18 on the opposedforces.com exploded diagram at the link a couple of pages ago. Seems to be lots of space on the right to insert a new one??

Which is the 'bolt with the flat head' you refer to ?? The vertical bolt just behind my problem one doesnt get appear on the exploded diagram at all.


thanks
jp.

[tom_kauf]

Current problem is what they call the COMPL bolt - horizontal connection to the selector shaft - just no clearance on the left to get it out, even levering on the box as much as I can muster. Bolt 18 on the opposedforces.com exploded diagram at the link a couple of pages ago. Seems to be lots of space on the right to insert a new one??

Which is the 'bolt with the flat head' you refer to ?? The vertical bolt just behind my problem one doesnt get appear on the exploded diagram at all.


thanks
jp.

I see which one you mean. That's the part you mentioned wasn't included in the STi shift assembly, right? (the set of bushings - a vertical tube welded to a horizontal tube). I'm pretty sure I didn't remove that bolt because I didn't have a replacement one in the new assembly anyway.
The bolt with the flat head is the one you're talking about (doesn't appear on the exploded diagram). That's the one behind your problem one. Mine didn't have a hex head, only a very thin (about 5mm high) head, and only 2 flattened sides (the rest round).

I'll see if I can get under the car in the next few hours. It's been raining for a few days and the car doesn't live inside. So working in puddles didn't appeal to me. I want to quickly remove the heat shield and check if I want to order those bushes. Or if the reason I didn't was because it's impossible to remove that bolt without taking the tranny out or at least lowering it.

[jp928]

This bolt!!! in the centre pointing left . How do I get this sod out please!!!! I can get so I can see about 7-8mm of thread, but thats it.
Just saw your post. This is next bolt fwd from the flat headed one . You werent able to remove that in place were you? I got the nut to turn a bit, then the bolt turned as well, so no way to undo it, and doubt there is space above to remove anyway.

Did you leave the coupling in there, and connect the back end to you new lever assembly ??

tks
jp

[tom_kauf]

Yep, the one that's out half way in your picture is the one I couldn't remove either. That's probably why Subaru don't supply that coupling with the shift assembly (at least not anymore, since most pictures of the short shifter online don't show that - except for the original Subaru pic). I had forgotten about that, but there's definitely no way to get it out without majorly shifting the tranny.

Since u don't have a new coupling anyway (unless you plan to buy one), I'd leave it in - you don't have a choice anyway. Undo the next bolt. Exactly like you said, undo the next one further back (and connect the back end to your new shift assembly). That's what I did. It's fiddly as hell to get back in!! That's what I needed a second pair of hands for (to reach in from the top). That bolt in its own took hours to get back in, but I put it down to the exhaust being in the way. But even then, the clearance between the transmission tunnel is very tight. A mirror to see around the top helped me as well now that I think about it.

[tom_kauf]

*Actually, do me favour please. Once you get the bolt further back out, see if the bracket on the tranny side can be rotated. I wish I could remember if it did. I'd like to get the bolt that's sticking to the left in your picture out, to replace those bushings (the coupling) as well. But it obviously isn't possible - and not worth it, if the tranny has to be shifted*.

[jp928]

Tom,
That flat headed bolt next back started turning with the nut almost immediately, so now I can neither tighten nor loosen it . How the hell did you a) get it undone, or b) get out out the top?
I am about to give up here, but might email Phat and see if he can suggest anything.
thanks
john

[tom_kauf]

You need to get onto both sides, and hold whichever end you're not turning. The head of that bolt has 2 edges, so you can get an open ended spanner onto it and turn the nut. Or turn the bolt head and hold the nut, whichever is easier.
Instead of eg a hex head which has 6 sides, this bolt head is round except for 2 sides. Makes it a bit harder but give it a try.
And in regard to getting it out, it just came out when it was fully loosened. There's more room for it than the side bolt iirc.

[jp928]

You dont recall the size across the 2 flats do you? I can see them, but getting a spanner on is going to be challenging. And it does clear the tunnel top and come out ok ?
thanks
jp

[tom_kauf]

Not exactly, sorry. About 10mm but that's just an estimate. Yes, definitely challenging. This install was one of the few times I wished I had paid someone to do it. I usually either don't attempt things, or do them no problems.
It definitely came out (I had a lot of trouble putting it back in, so I remember it). But I can't guarantee that I didn't also eg split the assembly to get it out.

[jp928]

i HAVE TRIED 12,13,14MM, no luck. I think I can feel a flat on the spanner, but I cant hold it enough to work out if its too small or too big. There isnt enough thread sticking through the nut to grab with vise grips. I have tried side loading the bracket, but still no luck.
Do you think moving the new lever assy into the old stay might work ?
Close to giving up here.
Seems crazy that nobody has mentioned what a PITA this can be, even with pretty good access.

jp 08 gtb 0 speed wagon

[tom_kauf]

Have you removed the very rear bushing (the rubber U shaped one I mentioned at the very bottom of P3 in this thread)? That makes the rear of the assembly have a bit more freeplay. Or split the shift assembly at the ball joint to remove the upper half? I don't know which of the above will help, but I know somehow it eventually worked.

You mean keep the bottom half of the shift assembly, and just replace the top section? Yeah, thats what almost every aftermarket unit does (keep the stock lower section). I don't know if that'll work with this one, since it was designed to be a full swap-out. But think it's worth getting it completely replaced, since you've spent all this money on the full STi assembly. Aftermarket ones are less than half the price, since they only replace half the linkage. And if you can drive the car there (lol at 0 speed gtb), a workshop will probably swap it in less than 1h. You can then refit the remaining trim etc, to save some money. I think I read Subaru charges 2h for the entire swap (incl all the trim + exhaust + heat shield removal/refit....).

It is weird that no-one before me mentioned they struggled with it. I said it took 7-8h on P3, but I put my struggles down to not being able to get the exhaust off.

[Gumbygtb]

This bolt!!! in the centre pointing left . How do I get this sod out please!!!! I can get so I can see about 7-8mm of thread, but thats it.
Just saw your post. This is next bolt fwd from the flat headed one . You werent able to remove that in place were you? I got the nut to turn a bit, then the bolt turned as well, so no way to undo it, and doubt there is space above to remove anyway.

Did you leave the coupling in there, and connect the back end to you new lever assembly ??

tks
jp

When i recently done my 6 speed conversion i ran into the same problem and worked out u need to have it in 1st gear which points the bolt head down more and gave me just enough room to remove that bolt and same when installing. hope this helps

[jp928]

Tom,
For the moment its back to normal, just got too hard for me. Got the front most bolt done up ok. Couldnt do anything with the vertical bolt, but I doubt its going to undo by itself. Bit of a struggle getting the stay bolt back in, and the rear cushion (put new one in, with vaseline - old one was a bit secondhand). Bit of a struggle getting the reverse cable connected - took 3 goes at jamming the arm below so the cable was high enough in the lever, and then the hole was rotated out of view - pushed some silicon tube down and picked of the cable end so I could get at the hole. Took a couple of trys to get the pin in, but its all done now, thank goodness!
Chasing Phat about somebody who can do in Melbourne.
thanks for your help here.\
jp

[tom_kauf]

No problem jp. I think my question about the bushing has been answered, so no need to worry about that .
Thanks for the advice Gumbygtb, that'll help me with the query I had regarding that bushing. I'm gonna order them now and swap them as well, just so I know every shifter bushing is new - because I'm crazy like that.

EDIT: It's actually #1 in the parts diagram. I made the mistake of thinking it was #6, but the Circled 6 is actually Item 14. Then I realised that's the metal part, not the bushing inserts. That is circled number 1 (item #1), which is Bushing 35035AG030 . STi is the same as GT-B.

http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/e ... ift_system

[tom_kauf]

Got the bushings this afternoon - $38.99ea at my local dealer . The parts diagram only shows 2 of them, but I realised afterwards there are actually 4. So I still need another 2.
But I had a quick go and fitting them. Not easy without getting half the shifter assembly out. So I'll leave this until the next time the car is getting work done. They really don't seem like the sort of bushings that would perish easily. They're not like rubber, more a semi-hard plastic. But it's the last set of shifter assembly bushings that I hadn't replaced.