club.liberty.asn.au

Hey everyone!

I've been lurking on this forum for a couple of years and it has essentially been the gospel for me. I've done a few cosmetic and interior modifications to my MY07 LGT-B 5EAT, and am getting my full license soon so would like to look into performance upgrades.

Performance-wise, I have only installed an X-Force 3-inch catback, new brake discs & pads, and stuck on some Pilot Super Sports. I am now looking to install the below mods all together (DIY wherever possible) and have it tuned afterwards all in one go.

- Invidia auspec down pipe w/ high flow cat (or should I go catless? lol)
- Blouch 1.5XTR Single-scroll
- Grimmspeed 3-port boost control solenoid
- Process West TMIC
- Perrin 3' Silicon inlet
- Process WEST CAI (including K&N filter)
- ID1050X Fuel Injectores
- Handling mods e.g. whiteline sway bars, strut brace, new brushings. Coilovers possibly? Don't know whether I need them.

I am a bit worried about compatibility of the mods and am not sure whether I'm missing any supporting mods. I'm also a bit weary that my transmission might not be able to take the power. I'm open to the possibility of forged internals and strengthening of my transmission if that would be necessary as well.

I have researched endlessly on what I can/should do, but am still a bit of a car noob so I would really appreciate everybody's input Thanks!!

Welcome.

Looks like a pretty good build plan to me. If you want to spread out your expenditure you could save the intercooler and the strut brace for later.

Sometimes an aftermarket pre-turbo pipe does not marry up nicely to a stock convoluted MAF pipe, so allow for an aftermarket MAF pipe that you might need to trim to make fit.

Perhaps research whether you need a bigger fuel pump. Be aware there is such a thing as "too much fuel pump", so only get the flow rate you need (plus a modest margin).

Not urgent, but consider also two catch cans - one for the crank case and one for the valve cover breathers.

I’d start the serious mods path with investing in Btssm or Romraider.

In order to mod and get tuned for mods, you need to establish your current state of tune via health checks and logging, and maintain that state after the tune where you’re generally running the car with more power and less headroom for contingencies.

Since you’re just coming off your P’s, I’d hold off on the turbo upgrade for now, as ime it’s going to be plenty of fun with exhaust and intake mods and a tune. It’s been enough to satisfy my requirements for the last 8 years.

Some of this is because the tune is so good. The car is perfectly useable in all modes, at 7, 12 and 15 psi via the SI-drive controller, it never gets old
Its probably making 160wkw which suits my skill set and budget for maintenance perfectly.
I guess I find as much enjoyment from the driveline and suspension mods which along with the responsive vf46 seem to be the perfect balance for my use case, hauling gear around Victoria.

As for handling mods, just upgrade any worn out stock relieved bushes with solid poly items, eg front lca rear position, the diff bushes, pitch stop and transmission mount.

You’ll know when your stock suspension is wallowy on bumps and is crashing on big bumps.
Generally when you feel it’s limiting your options and enjoyment.

Get the very best dampers you can afford and that’s it.
Our GT is on Shockworks and our 2.5i is on Koni Yellows.

No need to reinvent your handling and chassis dynamics with uprated swaybars, if your dampers are capable.
Due to the limited suspension travel on a gen4, keeping as much compliance as possible is a good thing for grip and comfort.

Member STiful just went through the vf52 upgrade process, maybe check his posts for the considerations encountered.

Using a Perrin or psr v2 silicone inlet (more affordable) should maintain the correct pressure differential in the inlet for the pcv returns, meaning less reliance on an aos/cc setup for a street driven car not running e85, (edit) and running stock-ish boost. Going over 20psi max boost, yes verified aos/cc setup to suit your application is indeed a good idea, mainly because at high boost you’ll (sooner or later) be likely to have a built engine.

How soon is related to your budget, application and knock monitoring and prevention strategy. See below.

Anyhow, back to the question, you’ll want to install a wbo2 in your dump pipe and preferably log it via the ecu.
And potentially use a knock monitoring device, since a 1.5xtr with any of the optional exhaust housings is capable of making serious power, power which needs close monitoring so as not to blow your stock engine.

Similarly your driveline will be close to the limit, so you must ask yourself if making over 200wkw is the right move financially, when an $800 vf52 would probably have enough response & top end, plus general reliability.

So what’s your intended use case and budget?

Using a Perrin or psr v2 silicone inlet (more affordable) should maintain the correct pressure differential in the inlet for the pcv returns, meaning less reliance on an aos/cc setup for a street driven car not running e85.

Are you saying that different pre-turbo pipes have different ported vacuum that materially affects the stock crank gas breather system?

Fascinating. I would be interested if you could explain further, with sources.

That’ll be with extra sauces…

Its in my latest aos/cc thread over here: viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36572&p=451711#p451711

I added further clarification to my reply above, see edit.

I’m trying to avoid ruining the discussion with too much experience and common sense (aka ranting), so I’ll post my thoughts elsewhere
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36903

But are you saying that different pre-turbo pipes have different ported vacuum that materially affects the stock crank gas breather system?

Apart from some conjecture in the linked catch can thread about which spigots (described by size and proximity to turbo) flow more, I cannot see any evidence in that thread that (eg) Brand X aftermarket pre-turbo pipe affects the stock crank gas breather system differently from a stock pre-turbo pipe or a Brand Y pipe.

[Excluding the "blocking the flow" or "remarkably changing the plumbing" chat of course.]

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=36572&p=451718#p451718

Discussion continues here ^

Ultimately to get the best out of the stock pcv system or an aos/cc setup, its helpful to first understand the intent behind the configurations for your specific application.

I see oil slick/dichroic film on the headlights in the op’s profile pic.

Intriguingly postfl GT fogs we’re available with real dichroic coating.
I saw a set on Top Shelf & Rare parts iirc on FB… megabux.

From memory they were Genome or ScaLaBo branded.

I like the look, might have to get the film.