club.liberty.asn.au

Hey guys, I have a 2008 Subaru liberty GT Spec B, that has the engine light on, traction control on and the cruise and sports mode flashing. Got it diagnosed and it’s P0011 and p0021, apparently the camshaft position sensors? Well, I took it to the mechanics and they changed my variable valve solenoid or something. But the lights came back on, the car makes a rattling noise on Drive and Idle and when just letting the car without acceleration it’s very jerky, any ideas??? It’s an automatic.

Why not take it back to mechanic? They worked on the car, you paid them to fix it, they should've fixed it.

Your avcs oil control solenoids are no longer in sync.
Generally both ocv’s should be changed.

An SSM log via tactrix, Btssm or vagcom (l & r vvt angle delta) will confirm.
If the workshop scanner reads ssm you might be able to log vvt angles, otherwise reach out to a local member or find a dedicated Subaru tuning workshop. Location???

Buy a new set off partsouq etc, it’s an easy install.
I’ve done at least 3 cars


viewtopic.php?f=10&t=30105
Parts info:
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=34980
Postfl ocv part number:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=30105#p407153

Hey man thanks for the reply, but I’m not really the best with mechanical stuff, can you please explain differently if you could?, cause the scan got bank 1 and 2 but the mechanics said they only chnanged bank 1 and not the other one?

Yep, scanning the angles of both banks and comparing them will reveal if they’re still out of sync.
We’ve had consistently positive results here replacing both solenoids.

Take it to a Subaru tuner or anyone that can log SSM.
I’d volunteer but am in Kalgoorlie atm.

Do you live in Sydney?

Did you get this sorted?

They are saying it’s my right side cam that’s not syncing with the other.

But someone else said it’s low pressure in one of the cylinders which I highly doubt.

Yep that’s possible.
If they want to isolate the avcs issue a simple test is to swap them from one bank to the other.
If the issue follows suit, the problem is with the affected ocv. If they replaced one, mark it so you know which is which.

It’s about 1-2 hours labour for the job.

If the issue persists after the test on the affected bank, it’s going to be an issue with the adjacent cam gear or the oil supply to the filter: banjo bolt filters quite deep in the oil gallery under (or in) the banjo bolt.
But hopefully it’s not that.

Personally I’d say, since you seem to be going in circles here, take it to a Subaru specialist, not a dealer or random mechanic. Or read the related diys as this is all possible with basic tools.

Read about it here: https://www.google.com.au/search?biw=32 ... KAjM38Lstc


Let me know if you’re still struggling plus your location.

Are you in Sydney, I’ll travel anywhere in syd to bring it to you. You know what you’re saying man

Another thing is, when I come to a brake I can see the oil light flashing really quick for a 1-2 seconds then it goes away

No I'm in Kalgoorlie atm, otherwise, see my signature>>>

Look I don't want to upset you, but the avcs thing is fairly bad, for performance and economy, but the oil light thing needs attention asap.

Have you checked your oil level on the dipstick?

Otherwise, a flickering oil light is a potential symptom of a cracked oil pickup in the sump.

I'd consider getting it on a tilt tray to the nearest Subaru specialist: MSR, G88, Insight etc.

Take a look for yourself:
https://legacygt.com/forums/search.php? ... d=20923578

And:
https://www.google.com.au/search?safe=o ... acJc-kW8vM

If it were my car, I wouldnt be driving it till everything is sorted.
Hopefully its not already terminal.

My dipstick is okay, but sometimes when that happens and I’m reversing into a parking spot my car will turn off on me like stall kind of thing, it use to be worse and it would happen when I accerelate in traffic.

Is there any way I can contact you personally. Facebook or something?