club.liberty.asn.au

So far I just had the Kido tune and it makes a massive difference, not just the engine but the transmission behaves a lot better. Next step according to Matt is to get a dump pipe and a 3-port solenoid. Apparently the rest of the exhaust is good enough not to worry about. That is the most effective "basic" changes.

And then from there, if you want more (because you always do ), then replace the turbo, and then, and then, and then...

bitten by the mod bug lol

Grab an aftermarket transmission cooler - if you like taking it up the twistys in tippy mode or just like using tippy mode alot the cooler will help prolong the life of the transmission. perhaps ensure the filter was changed and change the oil too.
afterall, havent heard of a transmission failing from being to cool.

Gtb08 wrote:Grab an aftermarket transmission cooler - if you like taking it up the twistys in tippy mode or just like using tippy mode alot the cooler will help prolong the life of the transmission. perhaps ensure the filter was changed and change the oil too.
afterall, havent heard of a transmission failing from being to cool.

The best Mod i have done was add a tranny cooler, made me feel alot better about thrashing around
Placement of the cooler is the key, if you can mount so that the Rad fans draw air through it that's best, as this will keep it coolish in start stop traffic.

Thanks for the advice guys - AVO parts on the way.

Is a cai a necessary bolt on with a dump pipe and tune?

With an aftermarket dump pipe you'll be flowing more air overall and more air quicker as the turbo will spool up quicker.

The standard MAF can flow a max of 360g/s however there is a maximum limit that is set in the tune, stock MAF limit is 300 g/s hence why the tune is needed.

When getting the car tuned for the dump pipe everyone tends to up the maximum boost level to say ~18psi and having a cai will allow the car to breathe far better when combined with all of these things.

Question from a newbie.

I have intentions of doing the dump pipe and tune only.

Does the state of the air filter, age of oil and air sensors influence the parameters of the tune and ultimately the end result?

Is it recommended to do a minor service before the tune?

lhuynh wrote:Question from a newbie.

I have intentions of doing the dump pipe and tune only.

Does the state of the air filter, age of oil and air sensors influence the parameters of the tune and ultimately the end result?

Is it recommended to do a minor service before the tune?

Dump pipe and tune will be an improvement over the stock tune, you'll feel the turbo spool up quicker

I would get a new air filter as this allows the MAF to see maximum airflow wile tuning and possible depending on the Km's on the car clean the MAF prior to tuning also - with not residue MAF cleaner.

It's recommended to tune with old oil that has been run for a few thousand km's, just make sure its topped up before hand - Careful not to overfill

What car do you have mate? If you have SI drive get the tuner to give you 3 different "Boost" Levels i.e. I = wastegate (9psi) S = 14.5psi and S# ~17.5psi
Be careful tuning with the standard TMIC, you may blow the plastic end tanks off or split the TMIC to throttle body hose. These are two very common problems.

I have 2007 GTB auto wagon.

I am due for a service in November so i would estimate approx 10000km on the oil. Ok to tune in this condition?

All im after is better throttle response and better fuel economy. It is our baby carrier so reliability is paramount.

Very keen to have that extra little bit of response and torque but nervous that a small tune could turn into constant trips to the workshop sorting out broken parts.

lhuynh wrote:I have 2007 GTB auto wagon.

I am due for a service in November so i would estimate approx 10000km on the oil. Ok to tune in this condition?

All im after is better throttle response and better fuel economy. It is our baby carrier so reliability is paramount.

Very keen to have that extra little bit of response and torque but nervous that a small tune could turn into constant trips to the workshop sorting out broken parts.

Regular maintenance is the key to reliability. 10k km's between oil changes is not great, these engines use oil and i meen ALOT of oil! Most people including myself do 5k km oil changes, once you start modding its hard to stop

Don't forget that that the Auto transmission also needs good oil to function properly and prevent damage to internal components, gearbox oil changes every 50-60k km's are a good idea too along with the filter.

In regards to tuning i would recommend Matt (KIDO) (Throttle Happy) he'd be best to give you what you want for a decent price - Road tuning.

MadmanSean wrote:

lhuynh wrote:Question from a newbie.

It's recommended to tune with old oil that has been run for a few thousand km's, just make sure its topped up before hand - Careful not to overfill

What is the thinking behind tuning with old oil?

What brand/size trans cooler are you guys running?

lhuynh wrote:

MadmanSean wrote:

lhuynh wrote:Question from a newbie.

It's recommended to tune with old oil that has been run for a few thousand km's, just make sure its topped up before hand - Careful not to overfill

What is the thinking behind tuning with old oil?

The viscosity of it will have stabilised a little after a few thousand km's, my theory is that it creates a little more drag/load on the crankshaft and rotating assembly.

shav wrote:What brand/size trans cooler are you guys running?

I just had a 20 ROW ebay special, it increased my trans oil capacity by about 400-500ml. Can't remember its exact dimensions sorry.

Matt(KiDo) advises that it is best to tune to the worst case scenario rather than the best case scenario for the safest tune.

You won't always have brand new oil in there.