GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

[Wolfanized]

Is the GFB electronic boost controller really needed? Thought the ECU in these cars easily coped with that level of mods and won't the ECU just see unexpected boost levels and pull it back down/throw a CEL anyway?

Also for wheels, wht not get the +47 Kiwami's. Thats what I've got on mine and reckon its almost perfect appearance wise without needing much work to be rub free.

And the Q300 is a good choice too. Hated the cost for mine but would happily pay it again, bloody love the noiseit makes.

Wasn't too sure how the +47s would sit on 18x8.5s.. If you have any images for reference it would be amazing!

Edit: Just checked out your build.. Happen to have any shots from behind. Looks neat, Was probably aiming for SLIGHTLY more poke though, May just also be the height of the car.

Boost Controller is just me being over cautious I guess.. Over building everything and carrying habits from older models.

[Wolfanized]

^in relation to fuel delivery

LOL, My bad.

Yeah I got no idea when it comes to fuel delivery.. When it comes to fuel management and advanced exhaust workings my knowledge is lacking. Have always left that kind of stuff to tuners and workshops, So i've never got the chance to be hands on and have to learn these things.

[bigBADbenny]

Andy you're absolutely correct re fitment but since this build is headed towards supporting 9"+ rims, why not prep the car car using the pokier +38 rims or just go 9.5 now

[bigBADbenny]

^in relation to fuel delivery

LOL, My bad.

Yeah I got no idea when it comes to fuel delivery.. When it comes to fuel management and advanced exhaust workings my knowledge is lacking. Have always left that kind of stuff to tuners and workshops, So i've never got the chance to be hands on and have to learn these things.

The one thing to remember is the scope of the build, because as you modify the car, one or more systems will run out of headroom ultimately limiting power production or available headroom.
In your case, it's likely the stock heads and 1000cc injectors.
Perfect for your current power goal and much later the addition of eg built heads, 1300cc or 1700cc injectors, twin pumps & surge tank might allow you to reach out towards maxing out the next component, probably the turbo

In any case, you'll want to invest in gauges and alarms and the BtSsm app is probably the most affordable way to get that via obdii and optionally 3 external sensors via the deleted TGVs and rear o2 sensor. Eg AFR, oil temp and pressure.
A cheap android, the BtSsm bt plug and 3 sensors could be done for well under $500 total...

[Wolfanized]

^in relation to fuel delivery

LOL, My bad.

Yeah I got no idea when it comes to fuel delivery.. When it comes to fuel management and advanced exhaust workings my knowledge is lacking. Have always left that kind of stuff to tuners and workshops, So i've never got the chance to be hands on and have to learn these things.

The one thing to remember is the scope of the build, because as you modify the car, one or more systems will run out of headroom ultimately limiting power production or available headroom.
In your case, it's likely the stock heads and 1000cc injectors.
Perfect for your current power goal and much later the addition of eg built heads, 1300cc or 1700cc injectors, twin pumps & surge tank might allow you to reach out towards maxing out the next component, probably the turbo

In any case, you'll want to invest in gauges and alarms and the BtSsm app is probably the most affordable way to get that via obdii and optionally 3 external sensors via the deleted TGVs and rear o2 sensor. Eg AFR, oil temp and pressure.
A cheap android, the BtSsm bt plug and 3 sensors could be done for well under $500 total...

Ah yeah, This part I understand. I already have my gauges and scanning tools setup.. They're always the first modifications I do to any car.

Will be a LONG while before I look into more power though, At least over a year.

My biggest current problem is my wheel fitment

[bigBADbenny]

Well Owen can certainly advise having gone from 18 8.5 +35 to 18 9.5 +38 iirc on his sedan with both street and track setups...

[Wolfanized]

Well Owen can certainly advise having gone from 18 8.5 +35 to 18 9.5 +38 iirc on his sedan with both street and track setups...

Yeah, I will probably PM him again as have been seeking advice.

18x8.5 is looking the go right now, More torn between +47 and +38 offset.. Noticed another member here has the same wheels with +47, However wanted slightly more poke and i'm 70.43% sure the more aggressive offset will address that.

[andy_mac]

Another thing to consider is how heavy the Kiwami's are. They're by no means a light wheel so unless you're really set on the design there are better, lighter options. Mine would look a bit more pokey with less camber. Only went the route I did to save needing to roll the fenders.
The +38 definately looks more aggressive, pretty much like Benny's one, but takes a bit more work and camber to get there. I would probably go for the +38 if I did it again as I was expecting even the +47 may rake a bit of work to fit but ended up being next to no trouble at all.

Thats what my front looked like with next to no camber before getting an alignment.


Don't really have any good pics of how the rear sits from behind but that should give you some idea. Could go with a fair bit less camber if the rear fenders get rolled which would look a bit wider.

[bigBADbenny]

More poke will increase steering feel and kickback from bumps, my setup with caster LCA's is heavy enough on the std rack and will be even more so with the GRB STi 2.3 turn rack once I man up and install it.
A 360mm steering wheel adds to that as well.

My advice would be to carefully research your entire setup before committing, eg studying the Radium Engineering website might reveal some affordable options regarding rails lines pumps n surge tanks for that extra headroom.

[Wolfanized]

More poke will increase steering feel and kickback from bumps, my setup with caster LCA's is heavy enough on the std rack and will be even more so with the GRB STi 2.3 turn rack once I man up and install it.
A 360mm steering wheel adds to that as well.

My advice would be to carefully research your entire setup before committing, eg studying the Radium Engineering website might reveal some affordable options regarding rails lines pumps n surge tanks for that extra headroom.

Yeah, I'm aware of the changes and effects it has. I'm experienced with fitment and have always had to do a little work and design planning on my other cars, but have no experience and up until recently no knowledge of the Liberty's limits and nuances with relation to wheel fitment.

Another thing to consider is how heavy the Kiwami's are. They're by no means a light wheel so unless you're really set on the design there are better, lighter options. Mine would look a bit more pokey with less camber. Only went the route I did to save needing to roll the fenders.
The +38 definately looks more aggressive, pretty much like Benny's one, but takes a bit more work and camber to get there. I would probably go for the +38 if I did it again as I was expecting even the +47 may rake a bit of work to fit but ended up being next to no trouble at all.

Not really fussed about the weight, I know the Kiwami's are on the heavier side weighing about 8kg according to the official website, but are still far lighter than many other wheels. The design is what appeals to me. If I was going to be more active at the track then it may bother me, However even then it wouldn't matter that much to me aside from the obvious unsprung weight I would need to work with using suspension.

Looking at your pictures i think the +38 offset will work perfectly. I also have absolutely no problem with rolling the guards.

Camber isn't an issue, Being an aggressive daily and weekend driver with the occasional track usage I will most likely be running a rotation of Front and Rear 2.0° / 1.5° or 1.5° / 1.0° with a reduced rear sway bias as well as appropriate changes to Toe and Caster. Really depends how the Liberty feels for my driving once the new set up is on.

I know these settings probably don't appeal to everyone and most have different opinions and preferences when it comes to this stuff, but these are the settings I have used in the past on the road and track to give better feel, reduced understeer and overall lap times suited to my own driving style.

[blacktop™]

BUMP!!!

How's this project coming along?

[dr20t]

Hello there

I've bitten my tongue on this for a while but have decided its in your interests to hear it. What I'm about to say is meant in a constructive and most respectful manner possible.

You have alot of your ideas on this build ass-about.

Engine setup is not balanced / well matched, and there are better ways to achieve what you want (once you know what it is you actually want)

Turbo selection leaves alot to be desired for the level of engine work you have planned.

Tuning is the most critical part to it all, so this needs alot more consideration than your giving it.

If you want my honest opinion, you will probably regret spending all this cash in 12 months time on something that doest really fit the bill of what you want. Subies are very expensive to modify relative to other 4cyl turbo's, and to be frank, won't ever really do it with as much poise and reliability as some of the others (vag group cars, Evo...).

Buy one already done or limit yourself realistically to what the vehicle is suitable to.

And research your ass off so you're prepared for it.

The build you have planned will cost you no less than $25-30k. The vehicle will be worth less than that even day before you have started the completed vehicle, and will still not compare to a well built Evo / golf r with similar money tipped into it.

My 2 cents. Good luck

Mick

[bigBADbenny]

My impression is the op is planning to go 300 over in the distant future, thus build a decent short now for 270ish on stock heads and cams, and single pump upgrade.
If that's not the plan then a stock 257 short on reco heads etc would be the smart option budget wise?

[jaydece]

Hello there

I've bitten my tongue on this for a while but have decided its in your interests to hear it. What I'm about to say is meant in a constructive and most respectful manner possible.

You have alot of your ideas on this build ass-about.

Engine setup is not balanced / well matched, and there are better ways to achieve what you want (once you know what it is you actually want)

Turbo selection leaves alot to be desired for the level of engine work you have planned.

Tuning is the most critical part to it all, so this needs alot more consideration than your giving it.

If you want my honest opinion, you will probably regret spending all this cash in 12 months time on something that doest really fit the bill of what you want. Subies are very expensive to modify relative to other 4cyl turbo's, and to be frank, won't ever really do it with as much poise and reliability as some of the others (vag group cars, Evo...).

Buy one already done or limit yourself realistically to what the vehicle is suitable to.

And research your ass off so you're prepared for it.

The build you have planned will cost you no less than $25-30k. The vehicle will be worth less than that even day before you have started the completed vehicle, and will still not compare to a well built Evo / golf r with similar money tipped into it.

My 2 cents. Good luck

Mick

HERE HERE! Totally agree!

Fun, small mods are cool and fine....but start pushing the limit and dollars....and yeah....mod bug hits and where do you stop...

Once again wise words from Mick! Personally been there and done that....if only I could turn back time....

[bigBADbenny]

Hmmm so no Willall billet blocks for you guise???