GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Posts specific to the 2.5 litre turbo engine

GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Wed May 04, 2016 8:08 pm

Hey all,

New member and first time poster, I found this page via the Facebook group and was recommended here. I have also made a post on a WRX forum however thought i may also post here seeing as most of you have similar cars and builds.

So I currently own and daily a 2008 Liberty GT Spec-B, (Did i mention I LOVE it?) I have been planning a build for a while now and have a rough idea however my expectations and goals have recently shifted as I have planned and put extra money aside to go the forged route.

I was hoping some of you could shed some light in the way of experience and even feedback on my planned set up so far. Perhaps point out some weak points, necessary/un-necessary and overall more cost efficient ways of achieving my goals.

My expected power goal is roughly 300kw on 98RON pump fuel with a decent level of practicality as this is my daily driver. Now of course I don't expect a lag proof set up and nor will I be doing 1/4 mile, However will be doing the occasional track day every month as well as some weekend/afternoon mountain roads.


Current planned build is as follows:

FINALIZED LIST 25/05/2016


Subaru Liberty GT Spec-B (EJ255 / 6 Speed)
---------------------------------------------------------


ENGINE
- CP Forged Pistons & Rings
- Nitto I Beam Forged Connecting Rods
- ARP 625 Head Studs
- TGV Delete
- ID1000 Injectors
- Walbro 460lph Fuel Pump
- Killer B Oil Pickup
- STI Water Pump
- ACL Race Bearings

- CNC Closed Deck


TURBO AND SUPPORTING
- Blouch Dominator 2.5XTR 10cm
- Frozen Boost Water to Air Intercooler

- GFB Respons BOV
- GFB 44m External Wastegate /w Screamer Pipe
- Grimmspeed 3-Port Boost Solenoid
- GFB G-Force Electronic Boost Controller


EXHAUST
- Invidia Q300 Turbo Back Exhaust
- Pro Speed Racing Unequal Length Headers
- Custom Made Uppipe
- Custom Made Screamer Pipe


SUSPENSION & WHEELS
- Shockworks Coilovers
- Polyurethane Lower Control Arm Bushings
- Polyurethane Trailing Arm Bushings
- Whiteline Front + Rear Swaybars

- 18x8.5 +38 WORK CR Kiwami Ultimate (Bronze)
- 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Super Sport

- Work RS Type Lug Nuts (Red)
- Work Flat Type Centre Cap (Red)


BRAKES
- APP Braided Brake Lines
- Dixcel Type Z Brake Pads
- DBA T2 Rotors
Front: 312mm x 33mm
Rear: 287mm x 18mm


CLUTCH AND DRIVETRAIN
- Stock 6-Speed Gearbox
- Jim Berry Race Clutch
- Lightened Flywheel


COSMETIC
- Delta Speed Rear Lip
- Delta Speed Side Skirt Lip
- Zero Sports Front Lip
- Carbon Fibre Mesh Grill
- Cusco Swivel Tow Hook
- DAMD Flat Bottom Steering Wheel
- Diamond Works SI Drive Cover
- 3D Mat Set

* First stage will commence on 19 July 2016.

Any feedback is appreciated and will be taken on board, Also if you feel like this will not hit my goals please post with your expected outcome and/or any changes you would make. However please note that this current set up is at its limit for my budget and has been crafted thanks to the support of a local workshop who will be assisting in the building and assembly of various parts throughout the process.

Thanks
Last edited by Wolfanized on Wed May 25, 2016 7:40 pm, edited 10 times in total.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby jslayz » Wed May 04, 2016 11:38 pm

close deck insert???
CURRENT - ATP GTX 3576 - 22psi - 283.7awkw
OLD - Dom 1.5Xtr - Last dyno 254ahkw, previous 238ahkw, first 224awkw.
My journey thread: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=15523
My Lib Pics here: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=15523&start=570#p370656
User avatar
jslayz
 
Posts: 2810
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:32 pm
Location: Perthhhhhh
Car: 2005 Liberty GT Wagon
Real name: J

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 12:59 am

Won't be using Closed Deck Inserts, Simply forging existing EJ255. Out of my budget and have been informed by MSR and Rising Sun that closed deck is not required for such power levels to run safely and reliably on expected boost levels.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 1:21 am

I would also happily settle for 250-270kw if it meant the difference in the above setup or similar setup lasting only 50,000km or 150,000km being that it is a daily driver.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby jslayz » Thu May 05, 2016 2:08 am

Wolfanized wrote:I would also happily settle for 250-270kw if it meant the difference in the above setup or similar setup lasting only 50,000km or 150,000km being that it is a daily driver.


I think this is a more realistic power level for that motor combo without closed deck and sleeves when on 98
CURRENT - ATP GTX 3576 - 22psi - 283.7awkw
OLD - Dom 1.5Xtr - Last dyno 254ahkw, previous 238ahkw, first 224awkw.
My journey thread: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=15523
My Lib Pics here: http://forum.liberty.asn.au/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=15523&start=570#p370656
User avatar
jslayz
 
Posts: 2810
Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 11:32 pm
Location: Perthhhhhh
Car: 2005 Liberty GT Wagon
Real name: J

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby GONEWALKABOUT » Thu May 05, 2016 10:45 am

This looks to be some what similar to a build i was planning!

Will require a better clutch.
There are much better coilovers available.
From a conversation with Alexeiwoody- aftermarket rods only needed at 300+kw
Unsure if .63 rear housing will net 300kw (?)
I imagine semi-closed will be fine.
Tial 38 or 44mm EWG would be good!
Why not ID1000 injectors (?)
Possibly require larger fuel pump (?)
Possibly require other 'accessory' mods eg catch can. Read existing builds at this power level for ideas :)
User avatar
GONEWALKABOUT
 
Posts: 652
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:02 pm
Location: Hobart, Tasmania

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 11:50 am

GONEWALKABOUT wrote:This looks to be some what similar to a build i was planning!

Will require a better clutch.
There are much better coilovers available.
From a conversation with Alexeiwoody- aftermarket rods only needed at 300+kw
Unsure if .63 rear housing will net 300kw (?)
I imagine semi-closed will be fine.
Tial 38 or 44mm EWG would be good!
Why not ID1000 injectors (?)
Possibly require larger fuel pump (?)
Possibly require other 'accessory' mods eg catch can. Read existing builds at this power level for ideas :)


I don't plan on going for Flex ever and don't want to overspend where I don't need to, 850cc will allow plenty of headroom.

Fuel pump is listed, May or may not go with Walbro but definitely upgrading.
Catch can is listed and will be fitted as part of Air-Oil Seperator.

Coilovers and swaybars I have chosen from Pedders because I have struggled to find decent suspension that is available in Sydney to fit the Spec-B.. Any suggestions?




@Jslays - Yeah, After reading into other builds and just for peace of mind I think lowering expectations to 250-270kw (Preferably the latter) would be a better idea and run a lot more reliably.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 11:51 am

Really appreciate the Input so far, Has showed me a few alternatives and let me see that possibly a 270kw goal is more in line without losing any real potential. After all the car is a DD and I'm not building purely for numbers chasing but would like a strong and quick street car I can take to the track.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby GONEWALKABOUT » Thu May 05, 2016 12:11 pm

Sorry, meant that im not 100% a 255LPH will get you to a 300 mark. But if you lower your expectations a touch to around the 270 mark then you would be ok i imagine. Would also save money on the rods. Would also save money on driveshafts which tend to cop a beating with 300kw launches

EDIT: for suspension lots of members will recommend shockworks, designed specifically for this car, also recommends keeping stock sway bars ($$$ saved)
User avatar
GONEWALKABOUT
 
Posts: 652
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:02 pm
Location: Hobart, Tasmania

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 1:27 pm

Ah yeah, Makes sense. Will have to look into fuel pump limitations in that case.

Will probably end up lowering expectations to 270kw it looks like anyway, For a minor power loss I just gain a whole lot of reliability as well as certainty in the build.

The car won't ever be seeing a drag strip nor will it be launched (Assuming I could even launch properly) so i'm not too worried on drivetrain upgrades in that sense.

Regardless if I go 270kw vs 300kw, I will be doing rods as I ave already budgeted for them and it makes sense to do them while i'm there as it's one less thing that can go wrong. Better safe than sorry.

Will definitely look into those coilovers (Google here I come!)
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby GONEWALKABOUT » Thu May 05, 2016 2:29 pm

Not sure i entirely understand your stance with the rods "having already budgeted for them, may as well do them". Why not save the reasonably large chunk of money for a better set of head studs, which will help stop you cracking a HG. Or something similar, save the money to get a better oil pan.. or perhaps other things you havent mentioned that you will need for your ej255 such as a bigger oil pump, cast wheel water pump, brand new OEM timing belt kit.

If you have deep pockets and it doesnt bother you.. then i suppose go for it.
User avatar
GONEWALKABOUT
 
Posts: 652
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:02 pm
Location: Hobart, Tasmania

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 3:11 pm

GONEWALKABOUT wrote:Not sure i entirely understand your stance with the rods "having already budgeted for them, may as well do them". Why not save the reasonably large chunk of money for a better set of head studs, which will help stop you cracking a HG. Or something similar, save the money to get a better oil pan.. or perhaps other things you havent mentioned that you will need for your ej255 such as a bigger oil pump, cast wheel water pump, brand new OEM timing belt kit.

If you have deep pockets and it doesnt bother you.. then i suppose go for it.


Well, It is to my understanding and just the way i have built any motor that Pistons are always accompanied by Rods.. As they are only as strong as the weakest point, Also being rods don't cost all that much extra.
I will already be getting vastly upgraded ARP head studs as well as all new gaskets all round as part of the Piston/Rod combo. I haven't looked into Water Pumps, Oil Pans etc at all as it has never been mentioned to me by tuners nor is it ever mentioned as a weak point or in articles and guides for a build of 300kw and under. Throughout all of the 250 -300kw builds I have looked at as well as all of the similar power range cars rolling around the streets and those of club.lib.asn Facebook page i've never seen this brought up.

It was to my reading so far that for decent power builds the biggest cost and of most importance was the uprated Pistons and Connecting Rods tied in with a pair of strong head studs. Ideally I would just like to build a motor that will stand up to the power increase while increasing it's life span without the risk of it blowing up. Stuff like the Water Pump and Oil Pan upgrade seem very very track oriented, and while I did mention I would be at the track, I am not quality enough a driver to be pushing it's limits.. As far as Timing Belt Kit, I will be doing a major service and touch up before the build of which this will be included.


I don't have deep pockets at all, I have just been saving away and aiming to build everything all at once whilst researching combo's and build strengths.

Again, Please correct me if i'm wrong.. I am just working within my budget and following the paths of experience with my other cars and that of others whom have similar power, similar builds and who's motors have stood up to the test of time, be they friends or online posts.
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby GONEWALKABOUT » Thu May 05, 2016 3:26 pm

The points you raise are logical and safe! However, I am simply trying to help you with your direct quote:

Wolfanized wrote:Perhaps point out some weak points, necessary/un-necessary and overall more cost efficient ways of achieving my goals.


this is all :)

If you are talking about safety by adding rods you WILL want upgraded oil and water pumps. An 11mm Oil pump and the cast impeller (STi) water pump will do. You probably wont need the other things so much.
User avatar
GONEWALKABOUT
 
Posts: 652
Joined: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:02 pm
Location: Hobart, Tasmania

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Wolfanized » Thu May 05, 2016 3:43 pm

GONEWALKABOUT wrote:The points you raise are logical and safe! However, I am simply trying to help you with your direct quote:

Wolfanized wrote:Perhaps point out some weak points, necessary/un-necessary and overall more cost efficient ways of achieving my goals.


this is all :)

If you are talking about safety by adding rods you WILL want upgraded oil and water pumps. An 11mm Oil pump and the cast impeller (STi) water pump will do. You probably wont need the other things so much.


Ahhh Yes, indeed! Thank you for clearing that up. I was worried you were telling me something everyone else failed to mention and that I would be severely limiting my build strength.
I will look into an STI pump, Happen to know rough cost?

I also noticed you have a Spec-B also (albeit wagon) and are running a GTX3067 or similar turbo as well as a twist mount setup. How do you find the responsiveness and overall feel?
Wolfanized
 
Posts: 30
Joined: Wed May 04, 2016 7:35 pm
Car: 08' Liberty GT Spec-B

Re: GT Spec-B 300KW Setup

Postby Adrian2627 » Thu May 05, 2016 5:00 pm

I would consider an oil cooler as well. Sydney can get pretty hot and if you do head to Wakefield for a track day it would really help. You're on the right track with a WTA IC so increase that insurance with an oil cooler.

Bearings, from oil starvation, and ring lands, from knock events, are the major issues in a built, or even stock EJ25. So building your engine with these in mind is where you want to start. Oil starvation often comes from the standard pickup mount failing hence why Killer B made an upgraded version. If you are opening your engine installing one of them would be a good idea. Knock events speak for themselves in finding a good tuner who knows where the thresholds are. Solid boost control and ensuring the AVCS system is tip top will go a long way to reducing knock.

Suspension wise look at MCA Blues or Shockworks for quality coilovers. I'm just about to put HKS Hipermax Max IV GTs in my wagon but I'm in Japan so they are relitively cheap but had I been back home MCA Blues would be the go for me. You've already mentioned LCA bushes so while you are there a little bracing will go a long way. If you go with coilovers I wouldn't worry about the swaybars. On the street the firmer springs will take care of body roll and the sway bars will just mess up ride comfort. On a track day just dial up your damping which is the whole point of adjustable dampers.

For brakes you're well on the way but adding some good high temp fluid and a master cylinder brace will complete the package. If you do plan on regular track days maybe look at Brembos, Alcon, AP, or Endless.
Adrian2627
 
Posts: 1056
Joined: Mon Jan 07, 2008 6:11 pm
Location: Gold Coast
Car: BP5F (MY09) Legacy 2.0 GT Spec B
Real name: Adrian

Next

Return to 2.5T engine specific

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests