club.liberty.asn.au

Hello good people

My car began shaking around really low revs ( idling), not much longer after that, engine light came on and cruise control/ si drive stopped working.
From what I've read, it could be an O2 sensor?
Im hoping the car is drivable without any damage till the weekend so I can get to work and back.
It's an 08 liberty tbsti auto. Haven't had it long.. doubt my warranty would cover it?

Cheers for any information.

* covered by warranty- blocked oil feed for turbo caused by the dislodged filter- once they unblocked it/flushed it out, all was fine.

Hopefully a local forum member can read the cel code for you with a BT obdii, BtSsm or Tactrix
Maybe reach out on the liberty club Facebook page?

Now it's stalling. Fun times. Contacting Eblens first thing tomorrow. .

unisafe wrote:Hello good people

My car began shaking around really low revs ( idling), not much longer after that, engine light came on and cruise control/ si drive stopped working.
From what I've read, it could be an O2 sensor?
Im hoping the car is drivable without any damage till the weekend so I can get to work and back.
It's an 08 liberty tbsti auto. Haven't had it long.. doubt my warranty would cover it?

Cheers for any information.

Define how long. You should get something like a 3 month statuatory warranty on any car bought from a dealership (new or second hand - if new, the manufacturer warranty trumps it).

If it's the front O2 sensor, they're over $500 from Subaru locally, though you can get them cheaper from overseas. Alas, the cheaper 3rd party one commonly available in Australia tends to be for the 2.0L turbo engine, not the 2.5L

So, went into Eben. Waited about an hour, they said something about my oil valve was blocked in the avcs... they reckon the fixed it but to keep an eye on it. I hung around the area for a few hours.. started driving and then pressed cruise control... few minutes later.. it started all over again.. engine check light and flashing cruise constrol.. and S mode only. Literally was passing them as they closed
Ive read it could be a dirty maf sensor.. if that's the case can I just give that a go cleaning it and see what happens?

unisafe wrote:So, went into Eben. Waited about an hour, they said something about my oil valve was blocked in the avcs... they reckon the fixed it but to keep an eye on it. I hung around the area for a few hours.. started driving and then pressed cruise control... few minutes later.. it started all over again.. engine check light and flashing cruise constrol.. and S mode only. Literally was passing them as they closed
Ive read it could be a dirty maf sensor.. if that's the case can I just give that a go cleaning it and see what happens?

AVCS overadvanced code? Bank 1 by chance?

unisafe wrote:So, went into Eben. Waited about an hour, they said something about my oil valve was blocked in the avcs... they reckon the fixed it but to keep an eye on it. I hung around the area for a few hours.. started driving and then pressed cruise control... few minutes later.. it started all over again.. engine check light and flashing cruise constrol.. and S mode only. Literally was passing them as they closed
Ive read it could be a dirty maf sensor.. if that's the case can I just give that a go cleaning it and see what happens?

Get hold of a tactrix cable or a Bluetooth OBD2 reader, and get the fault code/s from the ECU. Much better than guessing.

OP - you need to tell us what the code is/was, before anyone can help you. There are many things it could be.

Sent the car in today.
Apparently it was lh oil control solenoid fault. They removed the solenoid and filter and cleaned it out.
Got it logged booked serviced while it was in ( due in under 2000kms)
Only had to pay for the servicing. Did have to have a day off work due to the timing,location and lack of transportation though.
Cheers guys

Engine check light on again! Not happy.. going to ask A bloke I know if he can check the code for me.. maybe the solenoid needs to be replaced?

Okay. 3rd time into the dealership. The code is P0021 in bank 2**, I'm pretty Matt had guessed that!.
They found a piece of a erodid filter about the length of a match stick lodged in the oil valve again. The apparently have cleared it out for good. If I have any other trouble, they said I have to get in contact with my extended warranty because they are going to get stuck right into the engine bay and pull the front end off.

Pulling out the avcs inlet cam gears is the final step in fixing the issue, IMHO.
Best to log the vvt angles, replace solenoids if required.
Then pull and fix the cam gears if eg they're jammed.
It does happen, company23 make service tools for stripping them... Eg a 5 point driver.
I can dig up a DIY for you

Hmm sounds a little too advanced for my liking.. pun intended. I have a feeling my dealership know this is what needs to be done but keep 'patching' it up?

If you took our advice and scored or borrowed a Tactrix or BtSsm and read some how to's you could diagnose and possibly fix this yourself with eg a $30 tool kit and replacement solenoids for $100 each.

Diagnosis will let you know if the cam gears are jammed as well.

Maybe do an oil change, seive the oil to see how much broken plastic is in the engine.
Most times I've seen that it's just a piece or two so the worst may be over.

Or am I missing the point of your enquiry?

Here's the info you need:
https://www.google.com.au/search?output ... n.au+avcs+

Concentrate on postFL inlet only avcs/ocv info, start with the DIY and then look for further info on the 1st result...
If your cam gear/s are jammed see post #59 onwards here for refurb info:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... 656&page=3
Or replace the cam gear/s with new eg from Celtic, partsouq etc.
That will allow for a timing belt service if due. Replace the cam gear bolts w/ TiC FU bolts whilst you're in there