Extra parts to complete a good engine build?

[cynner]

So after 6+ months of chasing phantom knock, and now today my mechanic discovering chunks of metal in my sump... it's time to bite the bullet and put in a new engine.

I have the option of buying a built, complete motor (came out of another car, with only 20,000kms) - which will be fully checked over and new big end bearings fitted (just as a precaution). The engine consists of:

EJ255 bottom end with Manley rods, Mahle pistons, ACL race bearings, Cosworth oil pump. The heads were overhauled and have Cosworth valve springs and head gaskets, ARP headstuds and case bolts.

Existing mods are Blouch TD05 18g, 3" TCP turbo back exhaust, Process west CAI and TMIC, 3-port boost solenoid, Kobe silicon turbo intake pipe, oil catch cans, DW65c fuel pump, Killer B oil pickup (to go in).

I have stock 550cc injectors, stock blow off valve, stock fuel pressure regulator. Should I replace any of these with something better? De-cap the injectors or replace with 1000cc's?

I guess it wouldn't hurt to replace the water pump and timing belt before the engine goes in. Anything else? It's been suggested I put in braided oil lines just to make sure there are no more chunks of metal stuck somewhere in the oil system.

Any huge benefit in Killer B Sump and baffles?

Kim

[bigBADbenny]

If you're going that far you want a closed deck for sure.
Jackson posted the details recently along with cnc heads.
Mick was onto a set of spec c heads too.
Given the choice the 75mm STi crank and long rods are great in the above combo.

Maybe get the case halves cd'd before its rebuilt. It's 600-900 worth of insurance.

Get a filter on the avcs lines and the correct restrictor for the turbo.

ID1000's with parallel rail mod and TS800 or 1200 fpr.

Cast impeller water pump.

El headers for even cyl temps.

Killer B stuff can't hurt.

Decent clutch?

[cynner]

The engine i'd be getting is already built. Was just an ej255 from a 2006 wrx, rebuilt with the goodies above (so not closed deck?).

I'm just not sure how much "insurance" i should add things. Water pump for sure (i've read oem is better than aftermarket?)

My budget for all the ancillaries is low ($1000-$1500) so i'm not qanting to go too crazy. I'd still plan on keeping it around 220kw for long life...

[bigBADbenny]

Who built and tuned the engine?

I had thought that replacing big end bearings meant fully stripping the cases, I guess not?

[cynner]

Rob at Autocraft in Tassie (he built Ryan /Murph's 450kw B4)

[peadya100]

I'd look at getting injectors. 220wkw would have the injector duty cycle at about 100%. My tuner won't let me go a blouch 380xt or 440xt without doing injectors for that reason. They're about $550, but in your case a worthwhile addition I think.
Of course if you're going to stay at 220wkw, you don't need a built engine. New short block with head studs is ample

[cynner]

Yeah, the engine comes with 1000cc injectors so ill run those providing they fit (my06 wrx injectors same as liberty? they aren't shorter or anything?)

Not sure if i'd need a fuel pressure regulator and different rails to match? Already have the fuel pump.

[peadya100]

I think fuel rails would be better, but not for your power level. You can always change the fuel system later if you change your mind.

[dr20t]

06 wrx rails / injector setup won't work

Need plastic manifold setup (my08 ugly Betty onward wrx)

I would be cautious buying a built engine second hand but if you're comfortable with tolerances and quality etc then that's good

Get headstuds done definiely.

[cynner]

Ah, so the injectors are actually completely different?