club.liberty.asn.au

Ever since I got my car end of 2013, I've had a bit of jerking/clunking in the driveline when turning tightly at low speed (eg parking). Matt from KiDo tuning thought it's either the front or centre diff. That's slowly been getting worse, epsecially when the car is warm (driven for a while).

So when I saw this tonight (pic below), I thought something has let go completely. But that's more likely to be a Half Shaft seal, correct (unrelated to my driveline jerking/clunking)?

Definitely not transmission fluid (no smell), and both transmission fluid and engine oil levels are still on Full.

Any idea what this is going to cost at the dealership? And while I'm there, do I want to know how much the diff is going to cost me?

Binding while turning at low speed after the car has warmed up is generally centre diff.

The mess in your picture is a split inner CV boot, pretty straight forward fix. Very very common especially drivers side being so close to the downpipe.

zch91 wrote:Binding while turning at low speed after the car has warmed up is generally centre diff.

The mess in your picture is a split inner CV boot, pretty straight forward fix. Very very common especially drivers side being so close to the downpipe.

Ok cool, thank u . Yes, it is the driver's side - interesting that it's a common fault. My downpipe is still stock, but I'm glad I've sent my soon-to-be-fitted X-Force one to get ceramic coated - for some heat shielding in that area. But the car has 150,000km, so some issues are not unexpected.

150,000km isnt bad lifespan for the CV boots if you ask me. I have to do mine for the same reasons.

shav wrote:150,000km isnt bad lifespan for the CV boots if you ask me. I have to do mine for the same reasons.

Yeah, agreed. Especially something rubber.

About $250 iirc for a refurb at my local driveshaft shoppe.
Can get replacements from Repco or or Bursons iirc, even DIY fit them, I tried but rushed it and tore the inner gearbox seal.
The trick is to have the shaft perfectly aligned apparently.

bigBADbenny wrote:About $250 iirc for a refurb at my local driveshaft shoppe.
Can get replacements from Repco or or Bursons iirc, even DIY fit them, I tried but rushed it and tore the inner gearbox seal.
The trick is to have the shaft perfectly aligned apparently.

Ok cool, not too bad. I probably won't have time for DIY, but I read a LegacyGT thread which talked about the alignment problem/difficulty :/.

Mate had a CV joint issue recently (07 3.0rb specb, <100k kms), had it done at Pedders. First try they damaged the gearbox seal - leaks. Fixed it promptly. Not sure of cost, but can find out.
jp 08 gtb 6mt wagon

Getting mine replaced next week. Probably why the steering is feeling a little heavy too.

Subaru quoted about $500 incl labour, but that includes some other minor work I'm getting.

I was working under the car and saw the split in the rubber myself.

tom_kauf wrote:Subaru quoted about $500 incl labour, but that includes some other minor work I'm getting.

I was working under the car and saw the split in the rubber myself.

Seems like a high price to pay Tom. You sure you don't want to get a second opinion and quote?

shav wrote:

tom_kauf wrote:Subaru quoted about $500 incl labour, but that includes some other minor work I'm getting.

I was working under the car and saw the split in the rubber myself.

Seems like a high price to pay Tom. You sure you don't want to get a second opinion and quote?

Yeah, I definitely will. That's just what the dealer quoted.

tom_kauf wrote:

shav wrote:

tom_kauf wrote:Subaru quoted about $500 incl labour, but that includes some other minor work I'm getting.

I was working under the car and saw the split in the rubber myself.

Seems like a high price to pay Tom. You sure you don't want to get a second opinion and quote?

Yeah, I definitely will. That's just what the dealer quoted.

Ah ok. That's good. Keen to see the quote difference.

Make sure you get genuine CV boots if it is not too late. Most after market ones I have used previously (e.g. Repco) are crap quality rubber and fail way prematurely compared with OEM units. You may pay double but it is worth genuine for some parts.

Shaheenis wrote:Make sure you get genuine CV boots if it is not too late. Most after market ones I have used previously (e.g. Repco) are crap quality rubber and fail way prematurely compared with OEM units. You may pay double but it is worth genuine for some parts.

Thanks for the info. That is exactly why I generally think non-genuine parts are not worth it. Too many times it's a waste of time and isn't any cheaper in the end since the part fails sooner.
And from what others have said, the part is $250 from a local driveshaft shop (that's what the dealer also said they do, in my case anyway). So I dunno if that includes the Boot, but from all the stories (on other threads too) of installers damaging gearbox seals, it's not good to cheap out on the labour either.