club.liberty.asn.au

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 2:42 pm**

Anyone have one of those extended mechanical warranties or a comprehensive insurance policy which covers engines?

I'd like to get something which covers $5k of repair costs for blowing a HG. Mine is in perfect order, but the thought of having to come up with that sort of $$$ scares me!

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 2:47 pm**

Buy a piggy bank and start saving

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 3:07 pm**

opposed wrote:Buy a piggy bank and start saving

Not helpful. Even for those who have $5k+ in the bank, why would anyone want to spend that sort of $ on what amounts to changing a seal!

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 3:36 pm**

I'm in the middle of doing my own head gasket as we speak. I was quoted $1800 from a specialist. And I couldnt justify spending that so opted to take it apart myself. So I can see where you're coming from.

However you could get a lot more done at the same time (clutch, timing service, lots of other things while the engine is out). That could make you feel better about them charging so much for just a seal and you would know that your car is set for a long time.

I agree with just putting money aside for a rainy day.
Either to rebuild or to put towards your next car.

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 5:20 pm**

i think you are overreacting. just keep the car in good order (servicing etc) and it will be fine.

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 7:43 pm**

Honestly, if this is the sort of thing keeping you up at night, a Honda might be a better option. There's a certain element of increased cost and risk that comes with owning a high performance car, and you just have to wear it.

Not trying to be an ass, but that's how it is. That said, if you don't drive crazy and you maintain it properly, you should be fine.

OTOH, I drive pretty spiritedly, and I'm about to go E85 with over 20psi and should make well over 220kw atw, wish my headgasket luck. (although I do maintain it right)

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 8:41 pm**

Good luck Bob's headgasket. You will most definitely need it

Posted: **Tue Jan 13, 2015 11:41 pm**

dr20t wrote:Good luck Bob's headgasket. You will most definitely need it

Haha, R.I.P. Bobs headgasket more likely :lol:

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:40 am**

jslayz wrote:
dr20t wrote:Good luck Bob's headgasket. You will most definitely need it

Haha, R.I.P. Bobs headgasket more likely

Yeah, I've always been warned to stay below 22psi on RON98 if I don't want my heads to lift. E85 cylinder pressures are higher for a given level of boost as I understand it, so you'd want to be staying even lower.

(not sure if this supports what I've come to understand, but it could be of interest here - I'll be reading it properly later: http://www-personal.umich.edu/~annastef ... _ACC09.pdf).

Maybe some proactive maintenance Bob, and do head gaskets and new head bolts before you break something?

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 6:52 am**

E85 cylinder pressures are LESS. But over a longer time.
Really the most likely part to go is the headgasket, which, as long as I don't cook the engine after that, is just a headgasket job. However if (when) the hg does go, you can be sure there would be some studs being used. That could be year away, so no need to burn money here imho

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:32 am**

HardwareBoB wrote:E85 cylinder pressures are LESS. But over a longer time.
Really the most likely part to go is the headgasket, which, as long as I don't cook the engine after that, is just a headgasket job. However if (when) the hg does go, you can be sure there would be some studs being used. That could be year away, so no need to burn money here imho

50% more torque with less cylinder pressure? Who's been telling you fibs?

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 9:52 am**

alexeiwoody wrote:
HardwareBoB wrote:E85 cylinder pressures are LESS. But over a longer time.
Really the most likely part to go is the headgasket, which, as long as I don't cook the engine after that, is just a headgasket job. However if (when) the hg does go, you can be sure there would be some studs being used. That could be year away, so no need to burn money here imho

50% more torque with less cylinder pressure? Who's been telling you fibs?

I can't even remember where I found this gem, so I am an idiot for not verifying it (I WAS WRONG.. ish) ... I have done some resarch and found this, which shows that it's not QUITE as simple as it seems:

Source: http://dspace.mit.edu/bitstream/handle/ ... 953430.pdf

You can also read http://www-personal.umich.edu/~annastef ... _ACC09.pdf but it was too heavy for me and I didn't have the hours I'd need to make sense of it.

The explanation behind what I was saying - not entirely wrong, but again, more complicated.

A third issue is due to the chemistry of alcohol fuels for a given amount of air they produce more exhaust volume when they burn. Due to lower peak combustion temps (EGT might be 200 deg F lower on E85 for example) the peak cylinder pressure is lower but due to the high volume of exhaust gas products as the piston moves down the bore, pressure drops more slowly than it would on gasoline. This gives alcohol fuels an advantage in that the average cylinder pressure is a bit higher that it is on gasoline for a given peak cylinder pressure. This is what I was refering to earlier. Due to this higher average cylinder pressure if you leave the exhaust valve closed just a bit longer you can still get work out of the combustion gases a bit longer into the power stroke, but due to the higher exhaust gas volume you have more stuff to get out of the cylinder when you do open the exhaust valve so it make sense to use a slightly larger exhaust valve than you would be using with gasoline (or at least a higher exhaust port flow or valve lift ) to help the cylinder blow down in time so it does not interfer with both the intake cycle or make the the piston do work to push the exhaust gas out the port as it comes up the bore on the exhaust cycle.

Source: http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=77230

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 11:31 am**

Be careful with the after market warranty's as they have a lot of fine print and grey area's and the engine cover may be broken down into category's. The policy's my work sell might say you get 1k on coolant related issues , 1k electrical related issues , 3k mechanical . so if you have a failure from one area, say the head gasket blows, they may only give you 1k from coolant related issues and not the 3k from mechanical when it was caused by a faulty head bolt. In these situations you need a good quote from the mechanic to state what it needs and the quote needs to fall into the areas that give the most money to cover your problem.

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 3:08 pm**

Link please to who will insure just a engine Im struggling to find a insurance company that will are the rate the same for a 10000k engine as would be for a near rooted 200000k
I dont think its possible

Car dealers sell drive train insurance it cost $250 and is worth $0 its just sucker bait for single mums that cant keep there knees together after 4 beers

Posted: **Wed Jan 14, 2015 3:24 pm**

opposed wrote:Car dealers sell drive train insurance it cost $250 and is worth $0 its just sucker bait for single mums that cant keep there knees together after 4 beers

Why do you say that? I've had a lot of cars fixed for clients that have brought an extended warranty

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