Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby kiahatsiu » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:12 pm

Running dowels is another option benny. Basically about locating/reinforcing bores.
Kinda flush. Fitment is something. ADM as F*ck.
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby Boostaddict » Tue Sep 03, 2013 8:46 pm

bigBADbenny wrote:Aye doing that now ;)
I did mean closed decking. :P
The answer being that semi or closed decking uses "cold welded" inserts that locate and reinforce the stock bores.
And sleeving using ductile iron sleeves can supercede any requirement for deck inserts due to the thickness of the iron sleeves (if T sleeves).

I used the somewhat xtreme and xcessive xamples here:
http://www.xcceleration.com/engine-pack ... gines.html



^^ These guys on your link

Say that closed decking is THE STRONGEST. I thought sleeving was stronger!!??
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby dr20t » Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:44 pm

Close decking is no where near as strong on its own as sleeving

For a street motor, sleeving should come before close decking from my calculations

Think about it this way - close decking strengthens the top part of the cylinder only - it basically reinforces the bores up top by adding about an inch depth worth of metal to the bore, and closes the top of the block faces

However what about the rest of the cylinder?

My thinking tells me the rest of the cylinder will feel the brunt of the cylinder pressures under combustion, wh
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby dr20t » Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:55 pm

Close decking is no where near as strong on its own as sleeving

For a street motor, sleeving should come before close decking from my calculations

Think about it this way - close decking strengthens the top part of the cylinder only - it basically reinforces the bores up top by adding about an inch depth worth of metal to the bore, and closes the top of the block faces

However what about the rest of the cylinder?

My thinking tells me the rest of the cylinder will feel the brunt of the cylinder pressures under combustion, which means the cylinder could distort under higher pressures.

In my opinion this is why most high powered ej's fail. The bore distorting from too much heat / pressure. So sleeving alleviates alot of this - but as per one of my previous posts in this thread, there's only a handful of engine builders in oz I would trust with doing this properly
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby Boostaddict » Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:43 pm

dr20t wrote:Close decking is no where near as strong on its own as sleeving

For a street motor, sleeving should come before close decking from my calculations

Think about it this way - close decking strengthens the top part of the cylinder only - it basically reinforces the bores up top by adding about an inch depth worth of metal to the bore, and closes the top of the block faces

However what about the rest of the cylinder?

My thinking tells me the rest of the cylinder will feel the brunt of the cylinder pressures under combustion, which means the cylinder could distort under higher pressures.

In my opinion this is why most high powered ej's fail. The bore distorting from too much heat / pressure. So sleeving alleviates alot of this - but as per one of my previous posts in this thread, there's only a handful of engine builders in oz I would trust with doing this properly



Aaaaahhhh right, thanks mick .

I thought close decking was literally filling in the gaps in the case... Ie solid case beside cooling lines, case bolts etc etc.

So it's on the surface , to an extent, that get the filled in treatment .!!!

Yep I'm with you on the sleeves.!

Thanks ONCE AGAIN for your patients with my questions Mick and all others.!!
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby KiDo_Tuning » Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:53 pm

Extreme case of Closed Decking:

Image
Image

Machine the motor from a block of billet alloy.
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby jslayz » Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:56 pm

I heard that the one in Perth like this blew up anyway......

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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby bosc0 » Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:04 am

Buy someone elses project build who has either run out of cash or passion.

or

Buy parts over time when they pop up so that the 10$k outlay for a 100kw gain doesn't seem like it would have been better spent on nipple grafts and foot jobs.

** Value**
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby senator » Wed Sep 04, 2013 8:43 am

Billet blocks make good engines for short periods….i.e. drag racing.

Longer use is are sure way to kill them quick, the reason behind that is water and oil jacket can’t be machined to be as effective as cast blocks.
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby bigBADbenny » Wed Sep 04, 2013 11:41 am

bosc0 wrote:Buy someone elses project build who has either run out of cash or passion.

or

Buy parts over time when they pop up so that the 10$k outlay for a 100kw gain doesn't seem like it would have been better spent on nipple grafts and foot jobs.

** Value**


+100% Great point to make and glad you made it.

If one is patient everything comes eventually :P
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby Boostaddict » Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:57 pm

kiahatsiu wrote:Running dowels is another option benny. Basically about locating/reinforcing bores.



What about running these instead of sleeving ?? Any cheaper to do? Will it stop the issue to an extent ?? It's really only for insurance I'm thinking for.!!
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby kiahatsiu » Sun Sep 08, 2013 12:53 pm

As I understand it sleeving, closed decking and doweling all costs about the same. The dowels will add a bit of strength to the stock bores, a fair bit actually. But not many people do it. It seems to be a kiwi thing I have noticed. Now, sleeves and dowels to locate the sleeves, there is a combo.
In all honesty, talk to an engine builder.
Kinda flush. Fitment is something. ADM as F*ck.
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby KiDo_Tuning » Sun Sep 08, 2013 1:19 pm

senator wrote:Billet blocks make good engines for short periods….i.e. drag racing.

Longer use is are sure way to kill them quick, the reason behind that is water and oil jacket can’t be machined to be as effective as cast blocks.


I agree to an extent. The billet block in my mates SR20 I tuned has done 30,000kms and is making over 500rwKw. It comes down to the design, we have a rippled water jacket using water wetter to get the heat transfer surface area and oil system is essentially external feed with direct lines to bearings and the VVL Cams and the VCT can gears.

The EJ engine billet block seems to be compromised in a few spots but for 9 seconds or less, it would be quick
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby <GB> » Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:14 pm

bosc0 wrote:Buy someone elses project build who has either run out of cash or passion.

or



** Value**

Mine was this
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Re: Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

Postby cynner » Sun Jun 29, 2014 6:14 pm

Did you ever come to a conclusion about the "formulae" BBB? :)
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