Rob - the above are ok builds I guess (the Brent build has some questionable parts choices).
But my point is factory reliability for the Subaru 'performance' variants are better than built options up to a certain limit.
I would only trust a handful of engine builders in the country with an all out EJ motor. Robyn from PMS, Serge La Monaca, tony knight or more recently, Leigh bird from deshele.
However unless you are going into an all out blueprinted motor, and willing to spend over 20k on long block alone, then I would go with a jdm ej207 or fa20 anyday of the week
bigBADbenny wrote:Indeed this or something similar was mentioned in one of the Nasioc threads.
I've seen your references too. It's definitely an option we should explore and list.
Let start with some derpy n00b Q's:
Where best to research these engines? (I'll be compiling your references on this forum)
Is this a factory closed deck block or was that V6 & V7?
If swapped in, what ECU or piggyback is preferred?
The 2.2/2.4 builds are awesome when done right. But you're talking big bucks here. Not a small rebuild with some performance add ons.
A proper setup of that build would go:
Semi closed or full closed deck block $500 second hand
Forged custom skirted pistons to suit stroker - $1000
Forged pauter or better rods with arp L19 rod bolts - $800
Forged crank - $800
Wet ductile iron sleeves $800
Machine work (acid dip, sleeve fusing and alignment, torque plate hone, dowelling etc) $2000
King / ACL race bearings $200
Arp case bolts $500
Upgraded oil pump $500
Sump and baffles $500
Oil pickup $200
Balance rotating assembly - $300
Blueprinting and assembly of short block- $1500-2000
Arp L19 or better head studs $400
Cosworth or cometic headgaskets $250
Head work - $1500-5000 depending on level of port work
Cams $1200-1500
Valve springs and retainers $500
Gasket / seal kit $500
Timing kit with gates racing belt or better $500
Total : $15,500 to $20,000 depending on porting, blueprinting and who you know
Plus labour to remove and refit, ancillaries like turbo, intercooling, exhaust, fuel system, lubrication and miscellaneous hoses and fitings etc - easy $8000 with all that
Clutch for 6 speed $1500-2000 or built auto $4000
Upgraded front and rear diffs $1000- $1500
That's with stock ecu - if you need aftermarket you need minimum haltech so another $2500 plus fitting and tuning (another $1500). More for a vipec or autronic or motec (say $5k for those fitted)
Now you're getting into ridiculous territory
That's almost $40k above
Sure you could skimp out and buy cheaper components or not get porting done or not have it blueprinted but that's when it becomes only as reliable as a stock factory 'performance' motor like a ej207 or fa20 like my original suggestion
bigBADbenny wrote:dr20t wrote:And finally, quench area and head port design is rubbish on any 2.5 turbo variant.
Does this have anything to do with the popularity of 2.3L destroked 2.5's?
Another area of research is using SOHC heads for better reliability over the complexity of DOHC & AVCS.
I would never go back to sohc unless its a straight drag car where you're at wot in high rpm all the time
Quench area has partly to do with the reason for stroker builds yes. From speaking to Robin - he loves the 2.2/2.3 builds - and he knows his shit more than me or anyone else on this forum so I would listen
But again it comes down to budget.
With advances in fueling (e85 fuel, injector dynamics awesome injectors, better stock location fuel pumps), turbo technology (billet wheels, ball bearing, hybrid setups with mix n match housings and wheel combos); and massive improvements in tuning capabilities, modern (good, ie non ej255) 4 cyl turbo engines can easily make close to 300kw atw without too much internal work.
So budget conscious I would stick to my reccomendation above
Mick