Best Value Light Rebuilt Engine Formulae

[bigBADbenny]

I'm hoping more experts chime in and tell us how to get a quality assembled closed deck destroked forged short with recoed heads built to match the higher rev limit... For well under 10k

Surely if one was patient and did the legwork, for example I saw on the PMS/Berado site that close decking is available for around $600... MPS destroke kits were under 2K iirc... Hmmm

[Sean82]

Thanks for sharing

LOVE IT!

Sean: what work were you going to, to save to save approx how many $$$?

I was going to do the removal, disassembly of the heads, reassembly and reinstall "new" motor.
Savings would vary based on who you know and where you live but I'd estimated about $2,000-$2,500 saved. If not a bit more.
With all the parts collected, it could well be done in a week off at home. The only thing I wasn't doing was the head cleaning and honing, but some good garnet paper like you mentioned Ben would easily over come that one

It's a tough task if you don't have the tools or space, but for my recent engine swap I only needed to borrow an engine stand (because I wanted to have two) and engine crane. Patience is all that's required.

Thanks Sean! Great info!

Thanks. Just hope it saves quite a few hours "leg work" for others

Also, the combustion chambers should be CENTImetres-cubed not mm like I wrote.

[bigBADbenny]

Is
The whole point of this thread was to see what options are available at various price points, but also to delve into what aspects of the process are available for the DIYer to step in and be a part of the process, not necessarily to save the $$$ but perhaps also redirect those extra funds toward more hop-ups in the build.

Having an MY07 GT-B with a mostly issue free 200K on the engine and a resolution to not beat on it, I want to be very well prepared for the, some would say, inevitable rebuild in a year or a few.

Next I'll look into pricing the de-stroker parts: 75mm crank, long rods and pistons, and see how Jackson got big port heads on his 2.5L.

[bigBADbenny]

http://www.rexnet.com.au/forum/index.ph ... ottom-end/

Foz owner that went the Rising Sun route: happy customer

[GONEWALKABOUT]

Will probably get flamed for this but couldnt find anything using the search tool so sorry in advance!

Is there any difference between the post facelift sti and standard spec b blocks apart from the tune?
What could you expect for these motors, around 200, or pushing 230-40awkw reliably?

Kind of seems in retrospect that a 'budget light build' wouldn't be money conscious to gain 50 odd killerwasps

[bigBADbenny]

Same block different ECU code.

The thing is you can reliably sustain those 50+ kw's on those suggested light builds.

Ballpark figures:

Stock: 130 atw +/-
Stock tuned: 150 atw+/-
Stock tuned w/ (supporting) mods: 150 - 260 atw +/- $2k
Light build w/mods: 220 - 300 atw +/- $3-5k eg STi short >>> rebuilt with forged pistons on stock bottom end... Etc.
Full build w/ mods: 250 atw +++ $10k

It's that last second last category that's most relevant to this thread, the block and or build providing more reliability at the upper end of the power envelope

For a street car, things start getting weird around 250 atw IMHO so yeah the budget does need consideration.