club.liberty.asn.au

Hey All,

Did a quick search for a "replacement battery" but didn't come across anything too specific.

I am running a stock battery in my Liberty, and it is now dead (weak cranking, without turn over).

Suggestions and prices (real RRP, not 'mate rates' or other prices I won't be able to find) are most welcome!

Thanks,

Eddie

P.S. I've had a weak battery for a while and a few times it died on me while I was listening to the radio (at a low volume) for an hour or so without the engine running.

just go to bursons and get the century one recommended by the book.
i got one a few weeks ago, was $150, 550CCA i believe. big heavy bugger too (lots of lead = GOOD!)
55D23L or 75D23L are the numbers

I've heard of Century batteries lasting only a few years. I've had experience with Supercharge batteries and they have the highest cold cranking amps for the money you pay. The ones we have in the family cars have been going 4-5 years strong. If you call up Supercharge's phone line, and give them your location and they'll tell you their local distributor, who will probably give you the best price.
I replaced mine a few months ago with a SuperCharge Gold, 610cca for $160 at Harrys Auto Spares, Belconnen ACT. I think Autobarn was charging slightly more.

one of these

http://www.everybattery.com.au/Optima_D35_Yellow_Top_Battery.php

paggaz wrote:I've heard.......

I've heard of 2008 GT Liberties blowing big ends after 10,000km....
Better get a commodore, i've heard they last for 300,000km

We use a huge variety of Century/Yuasa batteries here at work for solar installations, vehicle operations, security alarm panels, etc (essential emergency services)
with proper battery maintenance, cycling and conditioning we get an 8-10 year life cycle from our batteries. (life cycle being defined as having 60% of it's original capacity)

but when you flatten a battery fully, you've reduced it's capacity by 30% or more in one go.

edd13k wrote:P.S. I've had a weak battery for a while and a few times it died on me while I was listening to the radio (at a low volume) for an hour or so without the engine running.

I've done that before too. Is it crap battery or just that the lib battery is small?

Like Robbks we use a lead-acids at work, for a huge variety of uses and Century/Yuasa are definitely great top quality, looked after can last even longer than 10 years. But batteries made for car mass-market are often not that good, but they also don't get treated well in a car.

If the sucker is flattened so it wont crank, then likely the plates & electrolyte are in such a state that you won't get the capacity back. Get a new one.

Listening to a radio/cd for an hour won't challenge a car battery - it's a relatively light load. Unless it's already in a poor state, or you have all the lights on, or keep playing with the electric windows & sunroof.

Working with lead-acid batteries for decades, I buy 'em from K-Mart for the car - or wherever is cheap & convenient. Get a name brand. They all make 12 volts (more or less). If it fits in the car and turns the thing over like it's supposed to then Bob's your Maiden Aunt's live-in-lover. 4 to 5 years is typical life.

I don't know what your level of knowledge is, so no offence intended, but you can't put in one that'll damage the car, starter only draws what it needs.

RACV actually have a very good price (if you're already a member and live in VIC) and they come to your house and put it in too...

AL.

B4ITZUP wrote:one of these

http://www.everybattery.com.au/Optima_D35_Yellow_Top_Battery.php

+1 for optima batteries.

Just put a red top in my Lib.....if you really want a strong cranking batt (mines 800cca ) that lasts many years and maintenance free, these are the bee's knees, ducks nuts and bob's your uncle.

There's an online store in Sydney that do these for a very good price...check them out.

http://www.batteriesdirect.com.au/shop/ ... ptima.html

Well worth it..

Just put a new one in my 08 gtb (jan build). Century 75DL23, QAutobarn, $161, discounted from $189. 680 CCA I think. There is a battery mob in/near flemington rd does them for $168. 3 year warranty.

jp 08 gtb 6mt wagon

I have a optima yellow top in my 08 GTB, iv used these in many different cars for a few years now and I love them would defonatly reccomend one!!!!
But I'm running some pretty serious audio equipment, and this yellow top provides a better cank in the car during start up etc and when the music is loud and sucking heaps of power the yellow top stops the lights dimming to the beat of that makes sense with out the use of a capacitor like most people use to resolve this issue...
They are a lil weighty and a dry cell deep cycle so no need for water

In my experience these yellow tops shi* all over your century battrys etc and the other brands you get from your mechanic or repco or whatever you go to BUT these will be more expensive them the other brands but you get what you pay for I guess

There's my 2c for the night

Nick,
Sorry, but I’ve worked with these for suckers decades and I can’t stop myself.
*** Warning: Technical Waffle follows***
Optima’s aren’t “dry”, no lead acid battery can be. They are basically two pieces of Lead immersed in Sulphuric Acid, generically known in the industry as a “Flooded Lead-Acid” battery. When you recharge then they give off gas - then you get two basic types of cases. Vented & Valve regulated. Vented basically let the gas go into the air like batteries of old. Valve Regulated have a pressure valve to keep the gas contained unless they are abused and case damaging pressures are reached, when they "vent". Some of the gases can be recycled by the chemistry. Harder to spill, Acid doesn’t “evaporate” so you probably don’t have to top up the acid for the life of the battery, some can be used laid on their side also contain the explosive Hydrogen which can cause issue under rare conditions (Boom!). We’ve had electronics in a cabinet badly corroded by hydrogen when the wrong sorts of cells have been charged at very high rates. Optima’s are valve regulated, and have different shaped lead electrodes so you get more surface area and hence higher capacity for a given amount of lead. Good batteries? Yep, definitely. Probably couldn’t get a higher battery to fit a given space.

So what is a dry battery? One when the electrolyte is a paste rather than a liquid.

And a Cell? – The basic chemical building block: put 2 pieces of lead in sulphuric acid. Charge it up and it gives back 2V. Connect several together and you have a Battery of Cells.
How big can they get? Typical car battery might be rated at 480 Ah (48Amps for 10 hours). We’ve got quite a few 3200 Ah - Each 2Vcell is about the size of an esky.
Blah blah blah.

Oh and the jokes on me now - I had a flat battery in the GT this morning Of course the GT was parked in front of the Forester, boot-to-boot.

Get spanners and jumper cables.
Unbolt the Forester's battery.
Lug it around to the front of the GT.
Jump start the GT.
Park the GT out of the way.
Put the Forester's battery back.
Wash up.
Change business shirt with greasy cuffs.
Wake up wife.
Start Forester.
Get worried when Forester then had trouble starting
Tell wife to drive around for a while before stopping.
Get driven to the station.
Text Boss to let him know I'll be late.
Sit in train and fume.

I'll be be playing the "quality for price" game now.

Al.