"Run Mode Change System Check"

[db1]

Hi guys so heres what happened.
I came home and ran inside for a few minutes. When I got back into the car and tried to start it, it wouldn't start. The dash lights were on but they were flickering and all I could hear is a buzzing sound. The "S" sports symbol flashes and "Run mode change system check" is on the info display. The indicator lights on the mirror are barely on when I press the remote.

Any ideas?

I've got a hks panel filter and LED parkers, and interior lights. Google says it could be the battery or MAF.

[Kekotic]

Battery is dead, charge it up.

[champ]

Whats the voltage across the terminals of the batt?

[db1]

Thanks for the help

I'll check in the morning, just got back.

How many Volts should it be?

Thanks again.

Edit: Just googled it.

[Kekotic]

Did you leave the keys in the car when you "ran inside for a few minutes"?

I have had all the issues you mentioned including the run mode change system check when my battery died due to trying to fix my HID fog lights, and leaving them on for about 10 minutes with the car in accessories.

[db1]

Ok now I'm worried.

Just checked voltage, and its giving 12.57v. So that's pretty much a fully charged battery, right?

No I didn't leave the keys in.

Trying a reset now, see how it goes. Maybe I'll even try a jump start but I don't think it will help.

Anything else?

[db1]

I tried reseting the ecu. No dice. Tried jump starting it and it turned over 2nd go.
So I guess it's a flat battery. Strange that it has 12.57v though.

Anyway I'll replace the battery and see how it goes

[db1]

Replaced the battery and she starts first go. I've never been so happy to hear an engine kick over!

[Kekotic]

Congrats

[champ]

Good that its going again!

I tried reseting the ecu. No dice. Tried jump starting it and it turned over 2nd go.
So I guess it's a flat battery. Strange that it has 12.57v though.

FYI, 12.57 is not enough to crank the engine (if you leave a meter on it and try starting it, you'll see it drop to below 11v).

[overl0ad]

hijack!

what's the CCA of the OEM one?

[Manaz]

FYI, 12.57 is not enough to crank the engine (if you leave a meter on it and try starting it, you'll see it drop to below 11v).

~12v is all a standard automotive battery produces (they are generally made up of six 2v cells connected in a series), so 12.57v is indeed enough. Voltage will momentarily drop as the battery actually provides current to start the car (P=VA, after all - if you increase the current, and the power stored in the battery doesn't significantly dip, the voltage must drop at the same time).

However, voltage isn't everything - the battery may not be holding much charge (note that charge and voltage are not the same thing), and thus unable to push enough power to crank the engine to the point it fires.

[overl0ad]

To bring up such an old post, you must either be really bored, really love batteries and voltages or just ... Well you know.

[Manaz]

To bring up such an old post, you must either be really bored, really love batteries and voltages or just ... Well you know.

Actually, I had this problem this morning. Came home from a week away to find the car dead to the world - turns out someone had left the dome light and front passenger reading light turned on...

The battery is barely 3 months old, I've given it a trickle-charge today, and it seems fine again now. Will of course monitor it over the next few weeks to see how it behaves.

For what it's worth, the battery should measure just over 12v across the terminals when the car isn't running and if your alternator is running properly, around 13.8v. The higher voltage is required to charge the battery.

[overl0ad]

Random thing I noticed.

As the battery was giving up. My outside temp readings were consistently wrong.