Will this fit?....

[parso_rex]

I think I'll quit on the power figure things here because its not going to achieve much telling people whats real. The 2L motor is internally strong ex factory no one will argue that, the 2.5 is not.
A 2.5 won't last if driven hard with the hyper-eutectic cast pistons, you can put things off by running a really rich mixture up top to cool the intake charge somewhat and also modify the ignition so it retards when the temps rise but then you've dropped power anyway and you retard too much and exhaust temps rise radically. Through the rexclub I know what 'real' figures can be achieved and I know what cars fail at. Running a big HP street car and a track car are totally different too, heat will kill your engine quicksmart and a TMIC is not the best option if track work is your thing- there are exceptions though. So putting aside the 40 kW grey area I'd still be putting forged rods and pistons in. Rods are pretty cheap unless you want over 300(340) atw and the pistons you need anyway.
We just had another dyno day on saturday with 30 odd cars and several sad faces in the crowd expecting much higher results than what they got.

This isn't point at you adam just an in general rant and I haven't even touched the bourbon yet

[Jimmy S]

I dont think anyone will dispute that the EJ207 is the stronger/better block...

I agree that the EJ257 STi 2.5L is not going to be a bulletproof block by any means, but it will in my opinion be a significantly stronger option than the original EJ255, and will most likely be more than sufficient for making 240kw/320hp!
Again, this is just my opinion, albeit based on 8 years of modifying Subaru's, but I feel changing the pistons/rods in the standard EJ257 block in an effort to then run more boost/power will simply put more pressure on the rest of the block's weak points and likely cause a failure elsewhere. If you are going to build a block, its all or nothing, go all out and upgrade everything or take what Subaru can do and work within its limitations.

Personally, If/when I break my EJ255, I will probably grab an EJ207...

[AdamW]

Will finally have my car back on the road soon..

Motor for upto 250-270 kw @ wheels (for maximum reliability)

Argo billet steel conrods
CP forged pistons, gudgeon pins, c-clips (99.5mm )
Chrome piston rings
Crankshaft bearings
Conrod bearings
Gaskets and seals
MLS head gaskets
Balanced crankshaft (79mm)
Compression ratio of your choice (recommend about 8:1)
Blue printed crankshaft oil clearances
EJ257 turbo brand new OEM engine block (no exchange)
ARP 11mm head stud kit
Recondition 06 STi cylinder heads and reset all valve clearances.

[Jimmy S]

Good to hear its going to be back on the road soon mate!

Which workshop is building the motor for you? Is this the setup they recommended for you?

[AdamW]

PerFOURmance Motorsports in Slacks Creek (Brisbane), yeah he gave me a few options and prices and I ended up going with this one. To rebuild the original engine would have cost about the same but it would have taken a month or so due to all the machining required. I might still get it rebuilt and keep it as a spare or sell it with my old stock turbo.

[senator]

Good to hear its going to be back on the road soon mate!

+1

More importantly have you found are good tuner?

[AdamW]

I still have the same tuner, he organised most of this. It wasn’t the tuner that caused my issues it was the dodgy mechanic that did my oil change.. When I dropped the STi heads off this morning I noticed a few rally cars (two subies, an evo and a couple of old school rally cars) out the front of mechanics garage. One of the subies was his, the others he just rebuilt the engines for so they can compete in Targa Tasmania rally. I thought this was a good sign and this guy knows what he is doing..

[coyote]

Robin does indeed know what he's doing.

[SUB4RU]

Robin does indeed know what he's doing.

+1

Probably best choice of mechanic in Australia for building a subie engine....(didn't mean to start debate...)