Oil Recommendation

[Manaz]

I don't believe Castrol Edge Sport is available any more

Castrol Edge Titanium is what replaced it.

Is it any good?

[cooki_monsta]

Jack_Keaka wrote:
why did they put "(thickness)" after "viscosity"? they could have saved the time and just wrote 'thickness'...

they were explaining what viscosity means... alot of people do not know the meaning of viscosity and it is the more "proper" word to use...

and the viscosity of that particular oil will be the same no matter if its hot or cold... as im pretty sure they give the appropriate viscosity level when oil is at the "optimum" temp, any higher or lower temps would require different oils..

i think that makes sense

Viscosity changes with temperature guys. Fact.

[LBR37Y]

Yes that's true,


I should of said out side temps... Obviously if your at the snow you would need diff oils as compared to cruising through the sahara desert!!
But that should be common knowledge

[Newbie GT]

Delvac is strongly recommended by MSR must be dumped every 5k Kms..

[alexeiwoody]

A lot of the forester guys use delvac.. Yes it's designed for Diesel engines. They swear by it, plus it's cheap

MSR recommends Mobil Delvac.

Peter how have you found the delvac? It seems it may not be the way to go ....

It seems delvac is good if dumped every 5 k but now after all opinions looks like factory spec should be used..

Is the factory spec oil good enough for a tuned gtb ?

Msr is big on the delvac my mate has been running it after tuning at msr

What a thread I've created !!

Delvac is strongly recommended by MSR must be dumped every 5k Kms..

I love your posts Newbie

[Newbie GT]

Love you too

Old thread

[jp928]

FWIW I use Delvac 5W40 in my Porsche 928 - low miles , changed once a year, no issues with anything in 7-8 years. Runs at 75 psi cold, 30+psi hot.

If you use the local oil tester listed above somewhere, the default analysis is minimal - you should ask for the full element test - doesnt cost extra they told me last time.

jp 08 gtb 6mt wagon

[dr20t]

Just an update for those tech heads who like to know about shit before putting it into their car:

Nulon now has API SN compliance for their full synthetic oils, making them suitable for usage with ethanol fueled cars

I have also mustered up some more data on other oils for those interested :

Penrite 10 tenths racing 10w40 full synthetic:

API SN compliant
Total base number: 9.8
Cst at 40 degrees: 92
Cst at 100 degrees: 14.6
HT/HS: 4.49 cp



Penrite 10 tenths racing 15w50 full synthetic:

API SN compliant
Total base number: 9.8
Cst at 40 degrees: 114
Cst at 100 degrees: 17.5
HT/HS: 5.3 cP


Nulon 10w40 full synthetic:

API SN compliant
Total base number: 11.3
Cst at 40 degrees: 111
Cst at 100 degrees: 15.17
HT/HS: 4.18

Nulon 15w50 full synthetic:

API SN compliant
Total base number: 10.6
Cst at 40 degrees: 142.4
Cst at 100 degrees: 18.99
HT/HS: 4.76


Good thing is both these oils are Aussie made and are a fantastic option for high performance motors

For those with ej207's with relatively low kms running 98 Ron I would go with either of the penrite or Nulon 5w30 full synth

For those running e85 the above are solid oils but must be dumped regularly

I will be going with Nulon 10w40 full synthetic for daily duties from now on, and penrite 15w50 for the track due to its higher ht/HS rating which makes it more solid at higher temps

The trade off of course is the higher viscosity at normal to higher operating temps than the penrite (which is the cst figures above)

Hope this helps someone

Mick

[rooby]

For the track day I've been tossing up the Penrite 10w40 & 15w50 for a bit now and still can't decide.

I'm leaning towards to 10w40 as I think it is heavy enough for my needs.

[mynameisdaniel]

Interested to know people's thoughts on changing oil for track days. I have one coming up and I'm not sure what I'm better off doing. Currently running Castrol Edge 5W-30 which will have been in there for 10 months but only 3,000km. I'd change it yearly at the absolute latest regardless of km though. It's not cheap oil so replacing before AND after the track day does seem a bit wasteful...

Would I be better off replacing it for the day with something heavier (and cheaper)? Or will mixing oils cause just negate the benefits?

I don't kill the car, only 15 minute stints at a time as an absolute max. Car's been perfect running 5W-30 at the track before, has 78,000km on it (has had an easy life)

[coyote]

I will be going with Nulon 10w40 full synthetic for daily duties from now on

Why on earth would you do that?

[dr20t]

For the track day I've been tossing up the Penrite 10w40 & 15w50 for a bit now and still can't decide.

I'm leaning towards to 10w40 as I think it is heavy enough for my needs.

How many kms on your car Rooby ?

If more than 100,000 and you're tracking it hard, I would use 15w50 specifically for track

However - remember that not every 10w40 or 15w50 is the same. You need to look at viscosity at certain temps (which measures the flow rating of the oil) and more importantly, the HT/HS ratings for a given oil, which tells you how it will wear / shear in high temperatures.

You could get away with a good quality 10w40 with a good HT/HS rating but depending on your motor, it is a risk, as your oil could be thinned out and potentially breaking apart by then and ineffective.

Interested to know people's thoughts on changing oil for track days. I have one coming up and I'm not sure what I'm better off doing. Currently running Castrol Edge 5W-30 which will have been in there for 10 months but only 3,000km. I'd change it yearly at the absolute latest regardless of km though. It's not cheap oil so replacing before AND after the track day does seem a bit wasteful...

Would I be better off replacing it for the day with something heavier (and cheaper)? Or will mixing oils cause just negate the benefits?

I don't kill the car, only 15 minute stints at a time as an absolute max. Car's been perfect running 5W-30 at the track before, has 78,000km on it (has had an easy life)

I would not mix brands - that's a no no unless you're absolutely certain of the mix being identical

When you say oil Isn't cheap - at 50-60 dollars its cheap insurance for a 5-6k stock rebuild

I would reccomend 15w50 for any track use

15 mins of hard race driving is equivalent in my opinion to 2 months street driving. So a few track sessions and you've just done 6 months of driving on your "new" oil

Comes down to oil brand, quality, your engine setup and age (and general condition because a 20,000kms engine that chews oil due to glazed bores or other is not better than a 150,000kms engine that chews little to no oil and holds pressure), and overall driving

If you plan on going flat stick but dont want to risk too heavy an oil at normal operating temps while youre driving to the track or back home, get a good brand full synth 10w50 for safety sake. This will give you good flow and protection at normal temps but have a good enough hths rating to not break down on you at the track in high temps

Good luck

Mick

[dr20t]

I will be going with Nulon 10w40 full synthetic for daily duties from now on

Why on earth would you do that?

Well after speaking to someone it looks like I might go back to 5w30 for daily use and the 15w50 for track duties

[coyote]

I will be going with Nulon 10w40 full synthetic for daily duties from now on

Why on earth would you do that?

Well after speaking to someone it looks like I might go back to 5w30 for daily use and the 15w50 for track duties

Careful you don't glaze those bores.

[dr20t]

Oh that's ok ill just throw a handful of sawdust in with each oil change to prevent glazing