Closed block or 207block

by **Gra's GT Lib** » Wed Apr 23, 2014 7:29 pm

Hi members,
Was going to replace my bottom end with new 207 sti block but have just been offered a closed block bare with honing been done still original size bore at next to nothing my question is It better to go this way and put a stroker kit into it or still go with a standard sti with already forged gear inside and is the sti a better block being 207

by **KiDo_Tuning** » Wed Apr 23, 2014 11:30 pm

Gra's GT Lib wrote:Hi members,
Was going to replace my bottom end with new 207 sti block but have just been offered a closed block bare with honing been done still original size bore at next to nothing my question is It better to go this way and put a stroker kit into it or still go with a standard sti with already forged gear inside and is the sti a better block being 207

Get the 08+ STi Spec C 2L EJ207 motor. Bolts in, huge power potential safely. 300Kw@wheels on stock bottom end on pump fuel

by **Sean82** » Thu Apr 24, 2014 2:07 pm

EJ207. No question in my mind. At least for a mainly street car. The closed decking can potentially lead to cooling issues if you don't get the cooling system sorted.
Here's why the JDM V10 EJ207 is so good,

EJ257:

JDM V10 EJ207:

From NASIOC, the 257 has cylinder walls that are 7.7 mm thick, the JDM 207s are 13.4 mm thick.

And it's not just the Spec C it came in; came in the MY10+ JDM STi too I've since found out

by **Gra's GT Lib** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 4:13 am

KiDo_Tuning wrote:
Gra's GT Lib wrote:Hi members,
Was going to replace my bottom end with new 207 sti block but have just been offered a closed block bare with honing been done still original size bore at next to nothing my question is It better to go this way and put a stroker kit into it or still go with a standard sti with already forged gear inside and is the sti a better block being 207

Get the 08+ STi Spec C 2L EJ207 motor. Bolts in, huge power potential safely. 300Kw@wheels on stock bottom end on pump fuel

hi thanks for the heads up will def get looking for one of these blocks another question will my heads match up ie compression ratio ports valves on my original heads or get matching heads ie long motor and will I need to change my ecu at all,
also If my original heads work I will be looking at putting spec c cams in heads will this still work without any mods as I have been informed this should work ok but a second opinion always helps as I was originally looking at putting a earlier 207 block in (01-05 sti short block) but after reading your post it has me wondering which is best way to go and is mod all plug and play with out any other changes required to fit my liberty

Graeme

by **dr20t** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 9:36 am

Get the version 10 long block not short block

There are a few things that need to be modded though

If you want to save cost then go for the v7 ej207 short block with forged pistons and use your heads. Yes they will bolt on. Yes compression will be ok but you will need a retune as your static and dynamic compression will change

Its not just the thicker cylinder walls that make the EJ207 better. Refer to these posts on nasioc for info :

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2454598

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2385141

by **kiahatsiu** » Fri Apr 25, 2014 10:58 am

I regret not chucking my W20 heads on a flow bench when i had the chance.
I often see a guy on rexnet getting all excited about the grb Spec C bottom end he got himself and chuckle a little.

by **Gra's GT Lib** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 2:46 am

dr20t wrote:Get the version 10 long block not short block

There are a few things that need to be modded though

If you want to save cost then go for the v7 ej207 short block with forged pistons and use your heads. Yes they will bolt on. Yes compression will be ok but you will need a retune as your static and dynamic compression will change

Its not just the thicker cylinder walls that make the EJ207 better. Refer to these posts on nasioc for info :

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2454598

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=2385141

Thanks for your info guys really appreciate your time and info after reading your replies, the v10 block looks to be bit of a major transplant compared to doing a v7 bottom end change (which like you said mick much cheaper and easier

thanks also for those links mick great reading so I'm very much undecided on which mod to do :?:

)so saying that if I was to go down the harder and much more expensive v10 road what's the advantage? I will go on and say I found a v10 long block he's asking $5500 negotiable for it without turbo but have the option to get turbo as well ($1200ono)is this over priced or standard for both block and turbo? if I was to get it should I get the turbo (it's a vf53 twin scroll or go a different turbo or just keep my current ball bearing vf38 only done 300 km just got it done) with it, if so what current mods on car will I need to re do exhaust (only just got it done

or can I use a flange to fix this and save a few bucks) actuator, bov gfb 9001 also I have a process west tmic and finally the ecu as I read in your thread this will need doing will all these actually need changing to fit this block long story short what will bolt on with current mods I have and what will need to be done to get engine up and running and what kw @ atw would I roughly be getting v7 mod compared to v10 also would you suggest any other mods to suit or recommend thanks again

Graeme

by **dr20t** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 7:59 am

Get the v10 long block with vf53 and twin scroll headers. Its not that much more expensive and definitely not "harder" per se, as assembling a subie motor with costs etc will cost you more than the outlay of the new motor.

Sell your vf38

Either reuse or sell your pw TMIC (If front mount then definitely reuse it)

Twin scroll dump pipe bell mouth on eBay (kinugawa / kando)

Stock preface ecu will run this motor you only need to reuse your old cam position sensors which are minor mods

Either reuse your black plastic intake manifold or better option is the ej207 inlet manifold with liberty throttle body

Stock v10 with vf53 on 98 wth retune will do 250kw atw depending on tuner. On e85 will make 270or so atw but a shitload more torque in mid range.

Stock liberty heads on v7 long block and vf38 will make 180awkw max

Vf53 twin scroll turbo and v10 twin scroll headers on the liberty heads and v7 block will make 220 odd awkw

Mick

by **<GB>** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 7:52 pm

kiahatsiu wrote:I regret not chucking my W20 heads on a flow bench when i had the chance.
I often see a guy on rexnet getting all excited about the grb Spec C bottom end he got himself and chuckle a little.

Why ? What's wrong with his block ?

by **kiahatsiu** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 8:39 pm

Nothing. I just have the heads off it. He is just super excited to have discovered it.

by **<GB>** » Sat Apr 26, 2014 9:04 pm

kiahatsiu wrote:Nothing. I just have the heads off it. He is just super excited to have discovered it.

Ah ok !why didn't u use the bottom end ?

by **kiahatsiu** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 6:51 am

The heads got fettled and ended up on my built 257.

by **KiDo_Tuning** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 7:49 pm

I bought new GRB EJ207 heads from Subaru... surprisingly cheap considering!

by **Gra's GT Lib** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 9:06 pm

KiDo_Tuning wrote:I bought new GRB EJ207 heads from Subaru... surprisingly cheap considering!

Hi Matt what they cost you?

by **KiDo_Tuning** » Sun Apr 27, 2014 11:16 pm

Gra's GT Lib wrote:
KiDo_Tuning wrote:I bought new GRB EJ207 heads from Subaru... surprisingly cheap considering!

Hi Matt what they cost you?

Assembled without cams for under $3k