club.liberty.asn.au

Approaching 200k Klm's and the beloved my06 is feeling a bit tired. Has had a v tune in its early years and a resonectomy. A single mass clutch/flywheel was fitted 2 years ago. Would love to do a turbo, intercooler, exhaust, fuel pump and injectors. But not sure where to start and w hat to expect. Had 180 kw at wheels when v tuned but now feels slow and fat(a bit like me). Would love to feel some tyre shredding power like the old gc8 with a kick in the back. Opinions?

Hey mate

At 200,000kms I can't see the ej20y/ ej20x lasting too much longer with decent power (180kw atw plus)

Therefore you're probably up for a rebuild if you decide to keep the car.

Simplest fix - pull the engine out before it lets go so you can salvage some parts.

Then get yourself a brand new ej207 short block with forged pistons from factory - contact kris from rising sun Subaru who will source one for around the $2500 mark I believe.

Reco your standard heads ($600-700)

Buy a set of cams from garage 88 (tomei or jun cams) $1200-1300

Gasket kit - $400

Timing kit $400

Aftermarket single scroll Turbo and factory single scroll exh manifold - $2000

Injectors $50

Fuel rails $700

Fuel pump (buy my sard ) $200

TMIC or fmic kit - $800

Miscellaneous - $500

Labour $2000

Retune $800-1000

Total $12,800 to $13,500 depending on various things and who you know.

Will make 250 kw atw on 98 and circs 280kw atw on e85

To save money you can probably ignore the cams and forego some power and spool up (may mean you need to run a smaller turbo to avoid severe lag)

That's my choice / advice

Good luck

Mick

Or pull the engine out and buy the 2.5t conversion I have for $4500 and with exhaust and tune nets you 175kw atw safe every day.

For $13,500 I could shoe horn a ls2 with 6 speed and 8.8 ford diff (have an old 5 series bmw also that I have been keen to do this conversion in so pricing is similar.) would lose awd but would be kinda mad.

Would only be looking to spend tops $2000 on the lib to extract a few more smiles. Was thinking second hand parts from members. Would love a phat dump, perrin top mount and bigger twin scroll.

$2000.00 won't get you very far sadly. With all those km's on it - Especially if you like to give it the berries - something is bound to go pear shaped.

I think Mick's suggestion is pretty damn thorough & will put a big smile on your dial that's for sure. But if the funds aren't available, my suggestion would be to move it on.

Kris has a blue printed spec C bottom end at the moment for a good price. I know, because i have the heads off it.
So, to save money on what Mick (Dr20T) has said: Find someone who will be selling a set of cams out of a Spec C head and use those in your existing heads. Have your existing heads reco'ed, mounted onto the 207 bottom end with some ARP studs. Would prolly save you 2-3 grand.


Unfortunately shit costs money man.

Also, i think mick's 50 bucks for injectors might be a little low.

I know a guy that will be selling a 20g-xtr with a billet actuator on it, some PE850cc side feed injectors and some spec c cams soon. Though those items right there would blow your 2k out of the water.

kiahatsiu wrote:Also, i think mick's 50 bucks for injectors might be a little low.

I know a guy that will be selling a 20g-xtr with a billet actuator on it, some PE850cc side feed injectors and some spec c cams soon. Though those items right there would blow your 2k out of the water.

Haha I meant 500

And no I didn't miss $450 from my total calc

dr20t wrote:Haha I meant 500

And no I didn't miss $450 from my total calc

I lacked the enthusiasm to add everything up. I just eyeballed it and it seemed right.
Tax time at my house is a blast.

Does a 2.5 wrx sti engine and box from an 05 fit easily into my car?

No - you will need the ecu, wiring loom, biu and cluster, key, ignition barrell and a fair few other sensors etc

Unless you wanted to run a piggy back aftermarket ecu such as a haltech or vipec or motec and leave your factory ecu to control other car functions

This will however require some tuning and switching off of codes etc on your rom to enable canbus to still run, and its not an easy thing at all

Buy a new assembled bottom end or used ej207 dude and be done with it

Mick

dr20t wrote:No - you will need the ecu, wiring loom, biu and cluster, key, ignition barrell and a fair few other sensors etc

Unless you wanted to run a piggy back aftermarket ecu such as a haltech or vipec or motec and leave your factory ecu to control other car functions

This will however require some tuning and switching off of codes etc on your rom to enable canbus to still run, and its not an easy thing at all

Buy a new assembled bottom end or used ej207 dude and be done with it

Mick

Noooo

later model 2.5 with 6 speed?

wrxbouy wrote:

dr20t wrote:No - you will need the ecu, wiring loom, biu and cluster, key, ignition barrell and a fair few other sensors etc

Unless you wanted to run a piggy back aftermarket ecu such as a haltech or vipec or motec and leave your factory ecu to control other car functions

This will however require some tuning and switching off of codes etc on your rom to enable canbus to still run, and its not an easy thing at all

Buy a new assembled bottom end or used ej207 dude and be done with it

Mick

Noooo

later model 2.5 with 6 speed?

Still same answer. You will need all extra bits from the wrx to run it. Ecu, loom, dash cluster, ignition module, key, ignition barrel and every sensor that is connected to the imobiliser.

Cheaper alternative. Buy the 2.5 engine I'm selling it comes with everything you will need to bolt in and away you go.

So, two good options here. Matt's full 2.5, which will need a bit of tuning otherwise straight forward, or the blue printed ej207 bottom end from RisingSun and wack you existing heads on it.
Either way, you need to multiply your 2000 dollar budget by about 5. I am not trying to be a dick by saying that, I am just trying to point it out.

Sorry the last post was supposed to be a later model liberty 2.5T with 6 speed box