club.liberty.asn.au

This may not be the optimal solution to my problem... but this is the way I think is most practical just now...

So any advice appreciated...

As I understand it they are removing a good working STi 8 engine from a car that they have driven a long way with no issues 56,000 miles on the clock... They will skim and clean 'something' LOL can't remember which parts he said to ensure they are flat and to maintain the correct compression ratio. They will fit my quad AVCS heads to this engine.. install new timing belt, tensioner and gaskets, spark plugs and oil filter. Then reinstall in my car...

Then hopefully the nice man who mapped my car previously will check it over before I get let loose to play

What capacity is the engine? Did the UK get 2.5 or 2.0 STi's, or is it a jap import?

Yep sounds good.

They'll take the complete bottom end of the motor (block, pistons, crank etc)
plane the mating surfaces of your heads and block,
put in the correct thickness head gasket to maintain the correct compression ratio and reassemble it all with your existing sensors, intake, exhaust, etc

kiahatsiu wrote:What capacity is the engine? Did the UK get 2.5 or 2.0 STi's, or is it a jap import?

2.0 for this engine - 2.5s later...

Robbks wrote:Yep sounds good.

They'll take the complete bottom end of the motor (block, pistons, crank etc)
plane the mating surfaces of your heads and block,
put in the correct thickness head gasket to maintain the correct compression ratio and reassemble it all with your existing sensors, intake, exhaust, etc

Cool - thanks...

Cool, if it is a ej20 bottom end you will only need to machine the surfaces to mate them, don't worry about skimming the head to increase the comp ratio back to standard, that will only come back to bite you later on. In theory it will be a lower compression ration that the standard liberty, and higher than the STi it came out of due to the combustion chamber size of your existing heads.

I think it will work well.

Second best option in my opinion to the full v10 jdm motor

Cc your heads and get them to be as close as possible to the jdm heads

Good outcome

Mick

Thanks guys - looking forward to getting my baby back on the road

Mick - sorry for being thick here... but what is 'Cc' ? - and my heads that are being used are JDM heads...

My car is a JDM import to the UK - the STi donor engine is a UK car just to clarify incase I hadn't given all the info.

Graphite wrote:Thanks guys - looking forward to getting my baby back on the road

Mick - sorry for being thick here... but what is 'Cc' ? - and my heads that are being used are JDM heads...

My car is a JDM import to the UK - the STi donor engine is a UK car just to clarify incase I hadn't given all the info.

A few things here (bare with me and ill try not to confuse you):

1. Your original EJ20Y (or X if manual) engine is from a JDM or AUDM legacy (liberty in the case of the audm)

2. The heads on your motor are pretty good, but the JDM Sti impreza heads (especially spec c variants and above) are better

3. Cc = cubic centremetres - in engine terminology it means to measure the combustion chamber to assist in checking quench area and thus overal static compression ratio. Easiest and simplest way is to flip the heads upside down with the valves in place and closed (cam caps and cams removed), fill a syringe with water and measure the total volume of water it takes to fill the chamber until full and level with the surface of the head. This gives you cc in Ml's and you can convert this to cc's.

4. The jdm v7 ej207 had forged pistons, rods and crank. The jdm v8-10 have hyperteutetic pistons but the same forged rods, and a better forged crank. The audm ej207 was only ever a "version 7", and thus had the same forged pistons as jdm ej207. These audm shortblocks are still able to be purchased brand new with forged pistons (which are still version 7 shortblocks but brand new).

Thanks...

dr20t wrote:1. Your original EJ20Y (or X if manual) engine is from a JDM or AUDM legacy (liberty in the case of the audm)

Hey Dr, are there any differences between the 20X and 20Y other than the ecu and tranny?

I think you mentioned on nasioc that they both have stronger piston and rods than regular wrx?

EJ20y/x has Semi forged pistons, forged rods, forged crank.

Crank is different to other EJ motors I've seen

Still open deck block though which to me presents a great weakness.

Mine is a manual but shows EJ20Y on the VIN plate... ?

Went to see how they were getting on this morning... Apparently had problems with one of the camshaft pulley allen bolts being all rounded off in the socket - so had to have it machined out...

My poor lonely baby in the yard at Scooby Spares...



My old short engine - open deck block...





My quad AVCS heads - to be put on the STi8 short engine after skimming, cleaning of combustion chamber and clearing of oilways etc...



My TD04HLA-19T turbo...



My turbo outlet gasket on a VF37 turbo outlet just for 'interest' sake ...



'My corner box' at Scooby Spares ...



Donor engine in situ ...





Hopefully will be sorted by middle of next week....

Looking good mate

Not long to go now hey?

Good luck - did you end up calculating compression ratio? My rough calculation assuming stock ej207 bottom end, 0.73mm hg and 48cc heads is around the 8.8:1 which is close to stock