JDM twin scroll engine failure...

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Sadly my engine suffered a big oil loss on Wednesday - was recovered to a Subaru specialist - but upon sorting the leak and refiling with oil the big ends seem to be knocking at about 3000rpm...

So sadly a rebuild will be required... They are suggesting a rebuild on an STi 8 short engine to reuse my quad AVCS heads and give added strength for possible future upgrades...

If anyone has any (helpful ) suggestions it would be appreciated...

Cheers

[dr20t]

Sorry to hear mate

My advice:

Buy a v10 long block and whack it in

Mick

[jslayz]

Sadly my engine suffered a big oil loss on Wednesday - was recovered to a Subaru specialist - but upon sorting the leak and refiling with oil the big ends seem to be knocking at about 3000rpm...

So sadly a rebuild will be required... They are suggesting a rebuild on an STi 8 short engine to reuse my quad AVCS heads and give added strength for possible future upgrades...

If anyone has any (helpful ) suggestions it would be appreciated...

Cheers

I feel your pain !!
Use this as an opportunity to make it a tougher boxer

[dr20t]

Sorry I think I came across as flippant.

I was referring to a version 10 jdm Sti long block not a V10 as in a 10 cylinder motor

The reason I suggest this is because you already have the ecu and wiring harness to accommodate this beautiful motor in your car. This is a MASSIVE thing, as there are probably only three Subaru chassis ever produced that can run this motor. Look up nasioc ej207 info thread in the factory 2.0l turbo forum, and look for info from Vlad and others (myself included) on this motor.

I will summarize the thread I'm referring to as follows:

1. The v10 JDM grb sti ej207 is easily the best motor Subaru has ever produced - by far.
2. Quad avcs, stouter block than anything bar the ej22t closed deck (except it will not be plagued with the overheating issues the ej22t block lends itself to)
3. The BEST flowing heads on a Subaru hands down. These heads have been proven to outflow even fully ported and worked ej257 heads amongst others.
4. The overall setup being a perfect combo - 8.0:1 compression, 2mm piston to deck height, perfect combustion chamber clearance, for knock free environment that allows up to 45 degree ignition timing on pump fuel.
5. Twin scroll turbo goodness with stainless equal length 4-2-1 headers from the factory
6. No tgv's
7. And finally - the cheapest alternative you will have to rebuilding an EJ motor, which by all accounts is not the easiest thing to do and all but a few built ej's suffer some sort of reliability issues after 30,000kms due to various reasons which I'm sure you can look up and read about if you're interested

I think the above is enough justification for my option - do it , you won't look back

And if you want any details on the swap let me know

Mick

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Thanks Mick - I really didn't know what you were reffering to in your first post - thanks for clarifying

I will give that some serious thought and investigation...

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Just heard from a spec C owner here in the UK that there are probably only 2/3 of these late JDM cars in the UK let alone spare engines... LOL - But it's nice to dream

What about a 2.5 conversion would any of those work/ be beneficial - considering that I really like my early spool up - the whoosh... feeling Obviously would always like more power - but hadn't planned on spending much on performance upgrades at the moment - but would consider spending a bit more whilst doing the work to get a bit more power or durability for future mods...

[zch91]

I think Mick was referring to getting one bought over from Japland

[dr20t]

Speak to an import wrecker

They should be able to source one from Japan for you

I cannot stress enough how much bang for buck these motors are if you have the required platform to support the swap without much headache (which you do).

Going to sound like a big time fanboi here - no other EJ motor comes close unless one has been purpose built with 400kw atw in mind (which translates to big dollars - in the vicinity of $20,000 aud just for the long block).

This is my honest and sincere advice to you.

A 2.5 shortblock will be ok. But I would much rather the option I put forward for cost, reliability, flexibility and sheer quality.

No hybrid motor will come close unless built by a specialist who has a torque plate for an EJ motor and specialises in assembling these on a regular basis, and on top of that will blueprint the motor for you.

Reliability is unbeatable for these motors assembled out of the factory for big power. It's a multitude of things:

- head flow
- piston to bore clearance
- piston to deck height clearance
- crank (double cross drilled, nitrided and balanced forged crank)
- rods (factory forged)
- pistons (hyperteutetic in the v8,9 and 10 which are not absolutely fantastic but far better than the ej255/257/205 cast
pistons)
- overall balance of the engine, with the heads and block working harmoniously as compared with any hybrid motor.
- factory assembled reliability for high performance

For interests' sake - in Japan, Subaru (or Sti) list the ej257 as "Sti engine" and the ej207 as "high performance power engine". This is available by looking at Subaru Japan website and searching.

This tells you just how much better Subaru themselves rate the jdm 207 over its counterpart. Another indicator is the fact that Subaru left the jdm ej207 exclusively for their own domestic market whereas all other Subaru motors were worldwide released. The japs were onto something here I think.

That's my advice - hope you took some benefit from this

Mick

[legacydan]

how much would a 10 jdm Sti long block cost used? would you need the full engine of just the long block? would these be compatible with the jdm legacy wiring and ecu?

[dr20t]

I couldn't tell you what they're worth in the uk

But long blocks here go between 4-6k depending on kms.

Only need long block and I would also get the twin scroll headers and turbo that comes with it. (Dan I know you already have twin scroll setup but the later versions are an upgrade on the previous vf36 and the headers are stainless and meant to be a little better too).

Use your jdm 2.0 ej20y inlet manifold. All the standard wiring from an audm / jdm legacy 2.0 will work fine with only some minor mods to the exhaust cam sensor on the right side.

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Thanks for all the info Mick - It does sound a tempting proposition. I will have to look into it further