Comparison - Liberty/Legacy/GT/STi ECU tunes

[steve_m]

We have everything x3 In fact I can rip roms off pretty much all european makes too now as of last night

well if you want to rip it off mine then no problems... just name the time...

[parso_rex]

We have everything x3 In fact I can rip roms off pretty much all european makes too now as of last night

well if you want to rip it off mine then no problems... just name the time...

There is one downside though which people forget to tell you. The ECU is reset when you read the roms so you wouldn't want to do this before a dyno run. It doesn't take too long to re learn of course like half an hour or so maximum usually 10 minutes. If you had a modified rom where the initial IAM value was modified to be set at 1 (16 for the 16bit ECU's) instead of 0.5 (or 8 for a 16 bit) then it isn't really an issue. Not that it really matters you just do it after the dyno runs thats basically it

[steve_m]

There is one downside though which people forget to tell you. The ECU is reset when you read the roms so you wouldn't want to do this before a dyno run. It doesn't take too long to re learn of course like half an hour or so maximum usually 10 minutes. If you had a modified rom where the initial IAM value was modified to be set at 1 (16 for the 16bit ECU's) instead of 0.5 (or 8 for a 16 bit) then it isn't really an issue. Not that it really matters you just do it after the dyno runs thats basically it

righto then, after the dyno runs it is.. i'm pretty sure it's standard at the moment. i'm not sure what the IAM values are...
how easy is it to modify boost while connected? is that a stupid question?

[parso_rex]

There is one downside though which people forget to tell you. The ECU is reset when you read the roms so you wouldn't want to do this before a dyno run. It doesn't take too long to re learn of course like half an hour or so maximum usually 10 minutes. If you had a modified rom where the initial IAM value was modified to be set at 1 (16 for the 16bit ECU's) instead of 0.5 (or 8 for a 16 bit) then it isn't really an issue. Not that it really matters you just do it after the dyno runs thats basically it

righto then, after the dyno runs it is.. i'm pretty sure it's standard at the moment. i'm not sure what the IAM values are...
how easy is it to modify boost while connected? is that a stupid question?

Well modifying the boost table doesn't take that long BUT you also have to look at the boost limit map and fix that to suit the higher boost and then the wastegate duty cycle to suit as well. Then because you are consuming more air and the timing is referenced off that table you have to modify that as well otherwise your timing will be out quite a bit in some areas and there are a couple of those. Then you go and check that the AFRs and boost match that of the target tables on a dyno and then on the road for good measure and you re-modify the tables to correct the errors. Thats if you want to do it properly I left out AVCS and leaning out the fuel tables and the DBW and and and....LOL.
You could still do it though

[steve_m]

Well modifying the boost table doesn't take that long BUT you also have to look at the boost limit map and fix that to suit the higher boost and then the wastegate duty cycle to suit as well. Then because you are consuming more air and the timing is referenced off that table you have to modify that as well otherwise your timing will be out quite a bit in some areas and there are a couple of those. Then you go and check that the AFRs and boost match that of the target tables on a dyno and then on the road for good measure and you re-modify the tables to correct the errors. Thats if you want to do it properly I left out AVCS and leaning out the fuel tables and the DBW and and and....LOL.
You could still do it though

so no 'just put it up a couple of psi" then...

might have to have more of a chat to you at the dyno day...

[parso_rex]

probably best. I can show you what I've done to my 08 spec B albeit with stock exhaust .

[Hotwire]

......
WOOT Cable is here! Will be reading ROMS by the weekend hopefully. Just need to be sure I get all the right drivers for my laptop

Just read my ROM using $21 Hong Kong VAG-COM cable, woohoo!
Logged the ECU using rom raider earlier today which worked a treat, and just read the ROM using ECU Flash (1.38)

I installed the cable using Tactrix drivers (as on lgt US forums) and it worked a treat - far cheaper than the $200 odd for the Tactrix 2.0 cable. **Note this doesnt work for those with CAN bus ECU's **

will get around to doing a how to guide for all other 2.0 owners soon

[Hotwire]

OK Guide has been written

for anyone with a pre-can bus ECU (MY04-MY06) this is fantastic option for logging and reading the ECU! For the measly sum of $20 and a bunch of freeware of the net, you can keep track of what your ECU is doing. All you need is a laptop

How To Use a $20 VAG-COM Cable To Read/Flash/Log ECU's

Cheers
Lee

[steve_m]

Thanks for that Lee! i'm pretty interested in this sort of stuff. so i'll give it a go

[steve_m]

So I now have what I "Think" is the image you guys wanted from my car...
I grabbed the rom using ecuflash.. it's a .hex file.. is this what you're after?

[Hotwire]

Hey Steve,

Thats exactly what I'm after - I'll PM you my email address if you can send it through.
Thanks!

Lee

[parso_rex]

Thats the one, It should be 512 Kb in size
If you open it using ECUflash or Romraider it will tell you the ECU ID.........then again so would plugging the cable into your car

[Hotwire]

Thats the one, It should be 512 Kb in size
If you open it using ECUflash or Romraider it will tell you the ECU ID.........then again so would plugging the cable into your car

Steve just emailed the file to me
A2WD010Z

[Hotwire]

Comparing the STi Manual Tune to an MY05 Manual Tune and My 04 Auto tune, I have noted the following differences:

Boost:
STi and MY04 Auto have essentially same boost targets, MY05 has slightly lower target figures.
MY04 Auto has slightly more agressive initial wastegate duty in 2-6k range

Open Loop Fuelling:
Quite a bit more fuel (4-15%) above 4000rpm & >1g/rev engine load on B map.
A map essentially the same.
Failsafe maps there are a few different cells, but minimal change.

Timing:
Base maps very similar with few variations
A Advance map essentially the same
B Advance map - approx 3-5 degrees advance above 2000rpm & >1g/rev engine load over both MY05 man and MY04 Auto

AVCS:
Auto is still slighty more (5 deg) agressive in mid load/ mid revs for intake advance B, all others same between Auto and Sti.
MY 05 manual alot more retard accross the board on intake advance B

DBW:
Auto has more agressive Requested Torque >25% pedal and >2000 RPM than both manual STi and MY05
Small variations in target throttle plate position between STi and Auto, big variations to MY05 Manual

So there ya go - seems quite a bit of difference!

[steve_m]

any more explination of that stuff? I'm pretty new to all this!
oh and what is boost actually set at?