club.liberty.asn.au

Hi guys,

I recently picked up a 2005 Liberty 3.0 R, she has 180,000km's on the clock. Needed a bit of work, such as drivers seat leather was torn, audio didn't work etc. 3 of the door lock actuators don't work (only drivers door working).
Bought a replacement seat and head-unit from wreckers and she is looking much better. Just waiting on lock actuators to arrive as purchased replacements online.

Mechanically... I can feel a vibration through the steering wheel when accelerating, its not too bad and stops once you get to your desired speed. Can feel it again if you suddenly accelerate to increase speed again.

I was thinking maybe engine mounts? not really sure. Any guidance would be appreciated. Am also going to change the disc's as I think they have seen better days/ do pads at the same time.

Never owned a Subaru before and have always had European cars. Pretty impressed with the car for the price, needed a daily run around to and from work and randomly purchased her on a whim.

Just google this forum, change keywords to narrow down or broaden your results:

https://www.google.com.au/search?q=site ... s-wiz-serp

…

Also at 180k km, there’s a lotta low hanging fruit maintenance wise regarding basics like the pitch stop and transmission mounts.

A common upgrade to these is using the group N parts, in conjunction with the stock engine mounts.

Same for most of the relieved suspension bushes, it’s fine to upgrade these with solid poly bushes, leave the rest stock replacement rubber items.
This applies especially to the lower control arm bushes, front rear position and the 4 diff mount bushes.

I have the group N transmission mount & pitch stop.
Avo lca bushes, whiteline diff bushes.

Automatic or Manual?

You say it is a "2005 Liberty 3.0 R" so must be a 5EAT Automatic

bigBADbenny wrote:Also at 180k km, there’s a lotta low hanging fruit maintenance wise regarding basics like the pitch stop and transmission mounts.

A common upgrade to these is using the group N parts, in conjunction with the stock engine mounts.

Same for most of the relieved suspension bushes, it’s fine to upgrade these with solid poly bushes, leave the rest stock replacement rubber items.
This applies especially to the lower control arm bushes, front rear position and the 4 diff mount bushes.

I have the group N transmission mount & pitch stop.
Avo lca bushes, whiteline diff bushes.

I have ordered LH, RH and rear Engine mounts. Also transmission mount... see how I go

BillyCorgi wrote:Automatic or Manual?

You say it is a "2005 Liberty 3.0 R" so must be a 5EAT Automatic

Sorry, yes you are correct: 5 speed Auto

Easy to pull your pitch stop to peep the relieved bushing

The stock transmission mounts just about break into 2 pieces, iirc…

I’ve always considered maintenance an opportunity…

To upgrade

bigBADbenny wrote:Easy to pull your pitch stop to peep the relieved bushing

The stock transmission mounts just about break into 2 pieces, iirc…

I’ve always considered maintenance an opportunity…

To upgrade

Please excuse my ignorance, is pitch stop this?


I got under the car today and I couldn't find where it is to change it
Would you be able to point me in the right direction? Cheers

Yep that’s a pitch stop mount.
Its located on the engine compartment bulkhead and connects forward to the rear of the engine/gearbox area.

You may need to undo it to see if the bushes are torn, usually the big end…
On a turbo it’s under the tmic.

So I have changed Engine mounts, transmission mount, pitch stop and left/right front lower control arms...
Unfortunately I still get the vibration/shimmy/shudder between 20-30km/h or during hard acceleration. I am unsure what else to do to rectify this
Any suggestions?

TitanB4 wrote:Any suggestions?

Tailshaft center bearing mount.

I found that the tailshaft bearing only made knocking noises when backing off the throttel in my old 2003 forester.

Does it change if you manually hold and shift the gears?

Defo worth checking the tailshaft uni joints too.

Not my car but the symptoms were hot or cold, acceleration, load, hills.

How stuffed were the old parts you replaced already?

Diff bushes are easily inspected for faults, eg leaking silicone, cracked bushes.
The symptom tends to be a thunk on off power on a manual car.

Mechanically the car has been pretty well looked after with full service history and 1 owner at 180,000km's. Previous owner had put on 4 new rotors and brakes, new tires, new brake fluid, new radiator on car, before the son on P plates had a small front end collision. They then traded the car in to my friends yard and I bought it off my friend for next to nothing. I bought a front bumper that I need to get resprayed and put on.

Seems the previous owner had changed the engine and transmission mounts as they were all completely fine. But I changed them anyway as I had them off. The Pitch stop small end bush was gone, big end has cracks and some movement and I changed that.

Lower control arms up front both had torn big bushes and needed replacement desperately which I did.

I think next stage is to change the centre tailshaft bearing and I think the driver side rear wheel bearing is noisy
Need to check the uni-joints too, not getting any clunking noises though.