club.liberty.asn.au

Hey Guys,

I need to replace all the hoses on my EZ30 (I have a pretty constant leak from 1 of my top hoses) and want to know the correct procedure to correctly bleed the cooling system.

If anyone can assist it would be appreciated.

I'd let someone who does it properly to chime in later. But the way I did was fill the coolant up until it was at the top of the radiator, turned the engine on, let it circulate, turn the heater onto full to let it circulate into the heater core. It'll soon begin to bubble up the radiator, that's all the air coming out of the system. A funnel helps reduce the mess. After that, with the radiator cap open, I squeeze one of the top radiator hoses and you'll see more bubbles come out.

There is a bleed valve somewhere, I've just been too lazy to find it haha

I'd actually be interested as well as to what others have done for coolant.
Last time I essentially followed the service manual, but I'm pretty sure it would ever only flush the coolant in the radiator and not the block.

The steps from the service manual is basically:

3. Engine Coolant
A: REPLACEMENT
1. DRAINING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1 ) Set the vehicle on a lift.
2 ) Lift up the vehicle.
3 ) Remove the under cover.
4 ) Remove the drain plug to drain engine coolantinto container.

NOTE:
Remove the radiator cap so that engine coolant will drain faster.

5 ) Install the drain plug.

2. FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1 ) Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck.
2 ) Pour engine coolant into the radiator up to the filler neck position.
3 ) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to “FULL” level.
4 ) Close the radiator cap and start the engine.
Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.)
5 ) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position.
6 ) Perform the procedures 4) and 5) again.
7 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.
8 ) Start the engine and operate the heater at max imum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”.
9 ) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops.
10 ) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less.
11 ) Open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position and reservoir tank to the “FULL” level.
12 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.
13 ) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 9).

Shit, I do hear flowing sounds on start up... Guess I gotta reflush haha

I had mine done in a Subaru Dealer and got it back with zero coolant in the overflow and trickling sounds from behind the dash. Ended up topping up with a general purpose Nulon but found out later you shouldn't mix coolants, so had it reflushed at another mechanic. Turns out they put blue in instead of green. And same deal, no coolant in the overflow. I went to the Subaru Dealer and purchased a bottle, providing them with the details of my car to ensure I got the right stuff. Found out the mechanic had been in and purchased whatever, so the blue went in. And who had to pay for the extra? Me..

After a lot of research I found out it won't hurt to mix and match the blue with the green, at least in small amounts. If you put the blue coolant into a car that is supposed to have green or has used green its whole life, the life expectancy of the blue then becomes green anyway (in other words not long life. Replace every 50k or whatever it has in the book).

Needless to say, turns out you can't trust anyone, not even a dealer or reputable mechanic. You would think changing the coolant would be easy for them.

What a pain in the ass. I try to do things myself for this reason. Had a shotty experience once and swore I'd either do it myself or watch over someone working on my car. Coolant bleeding seems to be a bloody mystery... I have tap water in my car right now, I don't want to put my coolant in until I figure out exactly how to do it.

Daytona wrote:I'd actually be interested as well as to what others have done for coolant.
Last time I essentially followed the service manual, but I'm pretty sure it would ever only flush the coolant in the radiator and not the block.

The steps from the service manual is basically:

3. Engine Coolant
A: REPLACEMENT
1. DRAINING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1 ) Set the vehicle on a lift.
2 ) Lift up the vehicle.
3 ) Remove the under cover.
4 ) Remove the drain plug to drain engine coolantinto container.

NOTE:
Remove the radiator cap so that engine coolant will drain faster.

5 ) Install the drain plug.

2. FILLING OF ENGINE COOLANT

1 ) Pour cooling system conditioner through the filler neck.
2 ) Pour engine coolant into the radiator up to the filler neck position.
3 ) Fill engine coolant into the reservoir tank up to “FULL” level.
4 ) Close the radiator cap and start the engine.
Race 5 to 6 times at 3,000 rpm or less, then stop the engine. (Complete this operation within 40 seconds.)
5 ) Wait for one minute after the engine stops, open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position.
6 ) Perform the procedures 4) and 5) again.
7 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.
8 ) Start the engine and operate the heater at max imum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO”.
9 ) Run the engine at 2,000 rpm or less until radiator fan starts and stops.
10 ) Stop the engine and wait until the engine coolant temperature lowers to 30°C (86°F) or less.
11 ) Open the radiator cap. If the engine coolant level drops, add engine coolant into radiator up to the filler neck position and reservoir tank to the “FULL” level.
12 ) Attach the radiator cap and reservoir tank cap properly.
13 ) Set the heater setting to maximum hot position and the blower speed setting to “LO” and start the engine. Perform racing at 3,000 rpm or less. If the flowing sound is heard from heater core, repeat the procedures from step 9).

Well I have to change my thermostat gasket to, so when I unbolt that it should drain any coolant left in the block,
Heres hoping

So I've found the best way to bleed the cooling system. Do the usual leave it for 10 minutes on idle with the cap open when the engine is warm. But next, go for some drives. Come home, let the car cool down, open the cap and top up. Do this many times, and towards the end, drive the car harder to get the temps and air up a little more and do the same thing. I had a huge air lock problem and spoke to a specialist and all seems well now!

I have found that the heating hose to the throttle body
is a good bleed point once the motor is warmed up.