When we did it we added NULON Smooth Shift Treatment Additive G70 to the oil.
I was impressed enough with the results that I through that my Spec-B Wagon would also benefit from a Gear Oil change.
So this morning we put the wagon up on axle stands and started with the rear end first.
The square holes on the Drain and Fill Plugs take a 1/2 inch square drive nicely, so this is what I usually use.
This will be the first time I have changed the gearbox and rear differential oil since buying the car two years ago.
I could not move the drain plug. Huff and puff and blowing those houses down, but nothing would move.
Who put these back in?
Have they ever been removed before?
Finally, in desperation the ratchet handle was inserted into the square hole and I used the trolley jack to jack up end of the ratchet handle.
Finally, with a lot of persuasion, the plug moved. Shyte!
Something inside my head told me not to drain the oil yet, get the fill plug loose first. A diff with old oil is better than a diff with no oil?
Well Oil Beef Hooked! I could not shift it. The plug was stuck tight as!
http://i.imgur.com/PMkZ1CT.jpg
To get to the fill plug you need to work around the branch in the exhaust behind the diff cover.
A short extension bar is used between the Fill Plug and the ratchet handle.
A piece of 3 by 2 was place on the metal brace behind the diff mount for the end of the extension bar to rest against.
Again, using the trolley jack all that happened was the end of the extension bar sheared off.
Image number 1 in the photo.
Back to the tool box and get another extension bar.
Same deal with the trolley jack.
Another one bites the dust. Twisted the end off the extension bar.
Image number 2 in the photo.
Not to be beaten, I went looking in the scrap metal box.
There I found a piece of 19mm diameter torsion bar.
A 13mm square end was fashioned on the end of the bar and a stripped 1/2" drive socket welded on the other end.
Same deal with the trolley jack.
This time the 1/2" socket twisted off the end of the bar. Time for a bigger socket.
Cut the socket off and welded on a larger (also and stripped) socket.
Same deal with the trolley jack.
This time the fashioned end of the torsion bar twisted off.
Image number 3 in the photo.
Well Oil Beef Hooked, again!
What to do now? Cannot budge this sucker?
This time back at the scrap metal box there was a piece of case hardened shaft from an old gear-pump.
Same deal as with the torsion bar. Weld an old 1/2inch drive socket onto the end and fashion a 13mm A/F square on the other.
Back under the car, place the 3 by 2 into position and use the trolley jack.
Trolley jack push 1 - no joy. Readjust and trolley jack push 2 - still no joy. Readjust once more and trolley jack push 3 - there was the loudest CRACK as the plug moved in the thread in the diff cover?
It took three more movements with the trolley jack before the plug could be moved with the ratchet handle by handforce alone.
Image number 4 in the photo.
I started at about 8:30am. It was not until 11:00am before I could start draining the diff.
Holy Shyte! What a job!
I do not know what the average DIYer would have done in this instance?
You can see the damage done to the standard extension bars?
I am storing the final bar (no.4) away in the garage. It saved my skin and I am sure that it will help with a stubborn fastener in the future.
Post Script.
When I finally finished the oil change I took it for a test drive. The results with the NULON G70 Smooth Shift Additive are very impressive. Can thoroughly recommend it!
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